Oil Cooler Housing Seal Replacement
#1
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Planning on tackling the seals on my leaking oil cooler housing (the console that the oil filter attaches to) and have reviewed both the Clark's Garage and 924/944/968 FAQ Procedures.
I have the right seals and the proper alignment tool for my car, but I have a stupid question:
Do I need to drain the oil and coolant before I do this procedure??
Clark says to drain the coolant, the FAQ doesn't say anything and neither mention the oil. Any and all insight is appreciated.
Fingers crossed, if this goes well I may be able to finally get rid of that drip pan I've had in my garage for 11 years, lol.
I have the right seals and the proper alignment tool for my car, but I have a stupid question:
Do I need to drain the oil and coolant before I do this procedure??
Clark says to drain the coolant, the FAQ doesn't say anything and neither mention the oil. Any and all insight is appreciated.
Fingers crossed, if this goes well I may be able to finally get rid of that drip pan I've had in my garage for 11 years, lol.
#3
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It's a mess either way, and I suppose you don't "have" to drain, but I drain both. You have to pull the oil cooler lines and there is oil in the housing etc. The more of it that ends up in a bucket, and not all over you and the floor, the better as far as I'm concerned. It's a bit dated, but here's another write up that may help:
http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951..._seal_repl.htm
http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951..._seal_repl.htm
#4
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Thanks guys, that helps.
Thanks for the link too Tom, funny enough, I went to bookmark it and realized I already had...and then had forgotten about it.
I'm doing a turbo/belts/water pump/oil cooler extravaganza in the next few weeks but would like to be able to break it up a bit, thus the "do I need to drain" question.
Cheers!
Thanks for the link too Tom, funny enough, I went to bookmark it and realized I already had...and then had forgotten about it.
I'm doing a turbo/belts/water pump/oil cooler extravaganza in the next few weeks but would like to be able to break it up a bit, thus the "do I need to drain" question.
Cheers!
#5
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I would recommend draining the coolant from the block via the drain plug on the block. It will still make a mess, but a more controllable one than coolant gushing out from the oil cooler console passages.
An important note: there is a short metal sleeve with an O-ring at each end that goes between the block and oil cooler console. Be sure to note which way it goes, check this when you remove it! The O-ring grooves are at different depths for each end; if you install it backwards, the O-rings won't seal properly and you will get oil/coolant intermix! Ask me how I know this . . . .
Otherwise, ensure that you have the correct OPRV centering tool, and when you are installing the console with the guide tool in place, gradually tighten down the 4 bolts in stages, and make sure the tool slips in and out easily after you torque down the bolts.
Good luck.
An important note: there is a short metal sleeve with an O-ring at each end that goes between the block and oil cooler console. Be sure to note which way it goes, check this when you remove it! The O-ring grooves are at different depths for each end; if you install it backwards, the O-rings won't seal properly and you will get oil/coolant intermix! Ask me how I know this . . . .
Otherwise, ensure that you have the correct OPRV centering tool, and when you are installing the console with the guide tool in place, gradually tighten down the 4 bolts in stages, and make sure the tool slips in and out easily after you torque down the bolts.
Good luck.
#6
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An important note: there is a short metal sleeve with an O-ring at each end that goes between the block and oil cooler console. Be sure to note which way it goes, check this when you remove it! The O-ring grooves are at different depths for each end; if you install it backwards, the O-rings won't seal properly and you will get oil/coolant intermix! Ask me how I know this . . . .
#7
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How the hell does one get that part out, anyway? Every time I try (well, two times), I damage it and need a new one.
I would drain the oil after removing the housing, so any water that made its way into the oil can be drained out.
I would drain the oil after removing the housing, so any water that made its way into the oil can be drained out.
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#8
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I used vise grips with a rag and made it just barely grab and slowly worked it out. I'm not sure if there's an easier way but I didn't damage it. It took some time and patients
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#10
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I looked at your excellent how-to article after I made my post. I must admit that I work at a Porsche shop and I had never come across this issue, probably because any of the cars that I had previously worked on already had the updated pipe---my '86 951 is a very early model. I regularly check TSBs on more recent Porsches, but with such an old model I guess we sometimes assume that we know it all!
Anyway, lesson learned, onward and upward!
#11
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If I remember my cheapo meter correctly, the part was like $11 at Sunset
regards
Ed
#13
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Now he tells me !!!
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#15
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