1986 951 a.c compressor
#2
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Not that hard.
#5
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You won't be able to 'rebuild' it, only reseal it.
After you have removed the refrigerant from the system, or its gone.
Ride up ramps or good jack stands.
Loosen belt tensioner and remove from compressor ear.
Disconnect compressor clutch wire.
Remove belt.
Remove 2 ac line bolts on manifold, put lines to side.
Remove 2 bolts through top mounting ears under the alt bracket.
There are plenty of tutorials on how to disassemble, borrow the wife's cookie sheet (don't eat any cookies further on). Remember when you split the case halves to keep the pistons and shaft/wobble plate in either the front or back section otherwise you will become puzzled. The reed valves and plates for the front and back are identical, keep them separated (there is a "F" and "R" stamped on the aluminum reed plate... but you know).
If the bores and pistons are not worn, if the wobble plate is not worn,
if the reed valves are not broken or corroded, if the point on the shaft where the nose seal contacts is not corroded, if the mounting ears are not broken...... then you consider buying a seal kit.
If you find metal debris or sludge you will have to liquid AC flush the system (removing TEV from evap).
You will need a new drier, new o-rings for the system, and inspect the compressor to condenser hose.
http://griffiths.com/product-categor...s-944-951-968/
After you have removed the refrigerant from the system, or its gone.
Ride up ramps or good jack stands.
Loosen belt tensioner and remove from compressor ear.
Disconnect compressor clutch wire.
Remove belt.
Remove 2 ac line bolts on manifold, put lines to side.
Remove 2 bolts through top mounting ears under the alt bracket.
There are plenty of tutorials on how to disassemble, borrow the wife's cookie sheet (don't eat any cookies further on). Remember when you split the case halves to keep the pistons and shaft/wobble plate in either the front or back section otherwise you will become puzzled. The reed valves and plates for the front and back are identical, keep them separated (there is a "F" and "R" stamped on the aluminum reed plate... but you know).
If the bores and pistons are not worn, if the wobble plate is not worn,
if the reed valves are not broken or corroded, if the point on the shaft where the nose seal contacts is not corroded, if the mounting ears are not broken...... then you consider buying a seal kit.
If you find metal debris or sludge you will have to liquid AC flush the system (removing TEV from evap).
You will need a new drier, new o-rings for the system, and inspect the compressor to condenser hose.
http://griffiths.com/product-categor...s-944-951-968/
#6
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I just bought a rebuilt unit from 944online. It came in perfect condition ready to install and included a new drier. They also sell a full oring kit. With the new compressor, drier and oring kit my ac works perfectly for the first time in 10 years. I used r134a which required a 5 dollar retrofit adapter from advanced auto parts. Installation was easy and could be done by anyone. Some tips, don't spin the new compressor without having the hoses attached, fluid will come out. Remove the compressors hose lines before letting the compressor off its mount. Make sure the new compressor isn't getting close to anything that it could vibrate on, my cross member and sway bar were close. I was able to connect a standard r134a gauge to the new compressor by dremeling back some of the OD of the filling hose /gauge that came with the refrigerant. If using r134a over r12. My compressor required about 26 oz to 28 oz. I used 28 but I'm sure 26 would have been plenty. My ac is ice cold and working great. My ac lines were the style that didn't have the low port by the shock tower. My lines have two low ports both accessible at the compressor. With the retrofit adapter the space is limited to get the refrigerant fill hose to snap on, that's why I had to dremel some clearance on the refrigerant filler hose fitting that came with the r134a cans I bought. I was easily able to change 7 out of the 9 oring seals. The last 2 are on the firewall and a little harder to get to. I decided to not change these two. If they happen to leak then I'll replace them but they are holding up just fine