M-tune
#1
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I am in the middle of installing my M-tune.
Just have the map sensor left to solder in and slap the DME and KLR back in.
I've searched on here but can't find it but I want to tie in my innovate wide-band.
Can I do this?
I know I can do it with the new Rogue board but I'm waiting on the tuner to be available again and will purchase the whole kit.
In the meantime can I do this or am I remembering wrong?
Thanks,
Jason
Just have the map sensor left to solder in and slap the DME and KLR back in.
I've searched on here but can't find it but I want to tie in my innovate wide-band.
Can I do this?
I know I can do it with the new Rogue board but I'm waiting on the tuner to be available again and will purchase the whole kit.
In the meantime can I do this or am I remembering wrong?
Thanks,
Jason
#4
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M-tune install done.
Inspecting DME at work today in the lab and putting new conformal coat on boards.
Hoping to fire it up when I get home. What a job
had to change back wiring and fit new injectors with tight space on fuel rail.
Inspecting DME at work today in the lab and putting new conformal coat on boards.
Hoping to fire it up when I get home. What a job
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#5
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edit: Issue 2 solved. Stock harness already had jumper installed. Was running in Valet-mode
So my DME board turned out to be bad. Car will not fire and tach does not bounce.
Borrowed a friends 28 pin DME and the car fired up.
2 Issues.
1. Having an idle issue. Car keeps searching for idle.
2. When I come up on throttle at about 4500 to 5000 rpm car sputters and cuts out. I can hear the wastegate flutter when it cuts out. I'm dump to atmosphere so it's probably not related.
The cut out lasts about 3-5 seconds then will run again.
It's acting like the overboost protection is cutting in/out but I'm barely on boost. Maybe only 2-3 psi.
Very strange.
Need to send off the Bad DME to Josh for core now I know it's bad for his Rogue Tune DME.
So my DME board turned out to be bad. Car will not fire and tach does not bounce.
Borrowed a friends 28 pin DME and the car fired up.
2 Issues.
1. Having an idle issue. Car keeps searching for idle.
2. When I come up on throttle at about 4500 to 5000 rpm car sputters and cuts out. I can hear the wastegate flutter when it cuts out. I'm dump to atmosphere so it's probably not related.
The cut out lasts about 3-5 seconds then will run again.
It's acting like the overboost protection is cutting in/out but I'm barely on boost. Maybe only 2-3 psi.
Very strange.
Need to send off the Bad DME to Josh for core now I know it's bad for his Rogue Tune DME.
Last edited by gruhsy; 05-29-2015 at 08:19 PM.
#7
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Edit line erased. Not issue
Just checked Rogue's site. 785.00 Canadian with exchange
. Dam Canadian dollar![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Just checked Rogue's site. 785.00 Canadian with exchange
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by gruhsy; 05-29-2015 at 08:20 PM.
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#8
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edit line erased was not problem
On a positive note. With the Mafterburner I would have to let the car warm up 2-3 minutes or it would stall.
The second I fired up with the M-tune I backed out of the garage without it stalling.
I probably need to track down some minor issues that were not apparent running the Mafterburner.
I also have a lightened flywheel and lightweight clutch setup.
Time to trouble shoot
Car is definitely faster off boost.
Will reset idle as per procedure too.
On a positive note. With the Mafterburner I would have to let the car warm up 2-3 minutes or it would stall.
The second I fired up with the M-tune I backed out of the garage without it stalling.
I probably need to track down some minor issues that were not apparent running the Mafterburner.
I also have a lightened flywheel and lightweight clutch setup.
Time to trouble shoot
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Will reset idle as per procedure too.
Last edited by gruhsy; 05-29-2015 at 08:21 PM.
#10
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LW flywheel shouldn't be an issue.
The 5-9psi cut is generally due to the DME sensing a bad MAP sensor signal.
When you swapped DMEs, was the resistor cut?
Idle should be very close to idle speed (just a slight bump over idle). How are you verifying idle speed? The tach on these cars can be quite a bit off...
The 5-9psi cut is generally due to the DME sensing a bad MAP sensor signal.
When you swapped DMEs, was the resistor cut?
Idle should be very close to idle speed (just a slight bump over idle). How are you verifying idle speed? The tach on these cars can be quite a bit off...
#11
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Edit: see my above comments
I'm going to order your DME Wednesday. Will be packaging the bad one today. Will PM you and e-mail you with the tracking number.
Idle just by the tach. Should really get the logger too![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I'm going to order your DME Wednesday. Will be packaging the bad one today. Will PM you and e-mail you with the tracking number.
Idle just by the tach. Should really get the logger too
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
LW flywheel shouldn't be an issue.
The 5-9psi cut is generally due to the DME sensing a bad MAP sensor signal.
When you swapped DMEs, was the resistor cut?
Idle should be very close to idle speed (just a slight bump over idle). How are you verifying idle speed? The tach on these cars can be quite a bit off...
The 5-9psi cut is generally due to the DME sensing a bad MAP sensor signal.
When you swapped DMEs, was the resistor cut?
Idle should be very close to idle speed (just a slight bump over idle). How are you verifying idle speed? The tach on these cars can be quite a bit off...
Last edited by gruhsy; 05-29-2015 at 08:23 PM.
#12
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edit
stock wiring is:
#5 is reference sender grounding
#13 is NTC II (water)
# 28 is ground
map sensor red wire is around 5 Volts good
map sensor green wire is 1.417 Volts good
stock wiring is:
#5 is reference sender grounding
#13 is NTC II (water)
# 28 is ground
map sensor red wire is around 5 Volts good
map sensor green wire is 1.417 Volts good
Last edited by gruhsy; 05-29-2015 at 08:25 PM.
#13
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Re-post from other thread:
So in STOCK configuration, coming out from the DME pin 28 there SHOULD be a wire going to ground.
To install the MAP sensor, you cut this wire to ground leaving two ends - one end to ground and the other end to DME pin 28 (along with cutting the resistor in the DME - you do nothing else to the DME other than cutting the resistor). You need to connect the output from the MAP sensor to the wire end going to DME pin 28 (pin 28 was an unused A/D converter channel Rogue is now taking advantage of). The MAP sensor also needs power and ground so Rogue suggests tapping into (don't cut, splice into) DME pin 9 for +12v and then using the 'other' end of the wire you cut (non-DME end, which goes to engine ground) for the sensor ground.
http://roguetuning.com/map_sensor_installation
When all is working properly, idle will be on the high side without using the tuner to adjust (waiting patiently for my tuner package to do just that, amongst some other adjustments).
So in STOCK configuration, coming out from the DME pin 28 there SHOULD be a wire going to ground.
To install the MAP sensor, you cut this wire to ground leaving two ends - one end to ground and the other end to DME pin 28 (along with cutting the resistor in the DME - you do nothing else to the DME other than cutting the resistor). You need to connect the output from the MAP sensor to the wire end going to DME pin 28 (pin 28 was an unused A/D converter channel Rogue is now taking advantage of). The MAP sensor also needs power and ground so Rogue suggests tapping into (don't cut, splice into) DME pin 9 for +12v and then using the 'other' end of the wire you cut (non-DME end, which goes to engine ground) for the sensor ground.
http://roguetuning.com/map_sensor_installation
When all is working properly, idle will be on the high side without using the tuner to adjust (waiting patiently for my tuner package to do just that, amongst some other adjustments).
#15
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I just finished installing a dual port waste-gate and redid all vacuum lines with a short run to the MAP sensor with no t's in the line I also found my throttle body seal blown out.
My test run went great with no issues were before if I accelerated to rapidly before it would fall on its face.
My idle is smooth and just under 1000.
Thank you Joshua the Mtune is a nice kit. I know you are busy but bring back the NA tune when you can...
My test run went great with no issues were before if I accelerated to rapidly before it would fall on its face.
My idle is smooth and just under 1000.
Thank you Joshua the Mtune is a nice kit. I know you are busy but bring back the NA tune when you can...