rear suspension bushings
05-29-2015, 01:19 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Grease nipples have tapered threads and you should have used a matching tapered tap. The taper allows you to get the indexing correct.
Not being a jerk, but do you understand how this works? Shouldn't have a problem getting the indexing correct.
Top tip: dab of Loctite 290 post assembly is good insurance.
Cheers,
Mike
Not being a jerk, but do you understand how this works? Shouldn't have a problem getting the indexing correct.
Top tip: dab of Loctite 290 post assembly is good insurance.
Cheers,
Mike
05-29-2015, 02:07 AM
#18
I just changed bushings to a S2 cab. I first figured out it can be done as it was wrote on Elephant Racing instructions.
After awhile i decided to drop the whole axle. I did it because i found out dropping the whole axle takes less time than working in a small space. Also you must re index torsion bars, which is quite painful to do when axle is installed under the car. Indexing was easy to do when axle was out the car. I also got a perfect opportunity to clean every part properly. Also it was easy to verify that both torsion bars were indexed the same way. I used Slovenian made Prekom bushings which are a perfect choice if you prefer rubber bushing over more solid ones. Prekom uses a bit harder rubber compound than oem ones. What comes to trailing arms, no need to remove them. I just removed bolts and supported them under the cars. So i didn't have to touch to the brake lines and handbrake cables.
After awhile i decided to drop the whole axle. I did it because i found out dropping the whole axle takes less time than working in a small space. Also you must re index torsion bars, which is quite painful to do when axle is installed under the car. Indexing was easy to do when axle was out the car. I also got a perfect opportunity to clean every part properly. Also it was easy to verify that both torsion bars were indexed the same way. I used Slovenian made Prekom bushings which are a perfect choice if you prefer rubber bushing over more solid ones. Prekom uses a bit harder rubber compound than oem ones. What comes to trailing arms, no need to remove them. I just removed bolts and supported them under the cars. So i didn't have to touch to the brake lines and handbrake cables.
05-29-2015, 04:45 AM
#19
I used Slovenian made Prekom bushings which are a perfect choice if you prefer rubber bushing over more solid ones.
05-29-2015, 09:49 AM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Grease nipples have tapered threads and you should have used a matching tapered tap. The taper allows you to get the indexing correct.
Not being a jerk, but do you understand how this works? Shouldn't have a problem getting the indexing correct.
Top tip: dab of Loctite 290 post assembly is good insurance.
Cheers,
Mike
Not being a jerk, but do you understand how this works? Shouldn't have a problem getting the indexing correct.
Top tip: dab of Loctite 290 post assembly is good insurance.
Cheers,
Mike
05-29-2015, 03:54 PM
#21
Pro
Grease nipples have tapered threads and you should have used a matching tapered tap. The taper allows you to get the indexing correct.
Not being a jerk, but do you understand how this works? Shouldn't have a problem getting the indexing correct.
Top tip: dab of Loctite 290 post assembly is good insurance.
Cheers,
Mike
Not being a jerk, but do you understand how this works? Shouldn't have a problem getting the indexing correct.
Top tip: dab of Loctite 290 post assembly is good insurance.
Cheers,
Mike
Not according to the manufacturers:
1⁄4”-28 Taper Thread Fittings are used on most cars and trucks, as well as many industrial machines. It is recommended that SAE-LT taper threads be assembled into 1⁄4”-28 UNF, Class 3B, straight threaded holes having a modified maximum minor diameter of 0.2151”, to ensure 75% minimum thread height.
05-29-2015, 05:54 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I emailed ER about this and they confirmed that a tapered tap should not be used. They said they should be snug enough and still rotatable, but if not then a small amount of blue loctite should help.
That of course is based on the grease fittings they supply, but my replacements looked the same to me, except for the thread pitch, so hopefully that should still apply. I'll compare them again when I get home.
That of course is based on the grease fittings they supply, but my replacements looked the same to me, except for the thread pitch, so hopefully that should still apply. I'll compare them again when I get home.