Player0

No, I realize you don't want any stepping, though getting a smooth well flowing transition is probably going to be difficult. Don't have one to look at here at the moment, and haven't looked in to how others have done it yet.

Thom

The bracket for both speed & reference sensors is mounted on the block, although both sensors protrude through the clutch bellhousing.

The 16V engines use only one sensor here (for speed) with a bracket with placement for just one sensor, while the reference sensor checks the (exhaust) camshaft pulley.

Here again the 951 set up can be mounted on a 968 block straight away.

Jay Wellwood

Thanks for the clarification Thom.

Player0

I just want to go on record as saying this is my least favorite part on any car in history. I've never struggled more than trying to remove the two hall sensors. I still have to go wriggle the connectors once in a while cause the car won't start. Going to rebuild the entire harness soon.

Anyway, ordering parts is going well. I don't really have a donor motor so all the little screws are going to be a pita. But I've gotten some good deals on some of the bigger parts. If I'm lucky, this will have been a little more affordable than buying a used motor. Versus having cost a lot more :P

Thinking about Turbos now. Oh I'd love to get a Garrett GTX but the custom fab work really worries me. I'm not friends with professional welders. And even then, it looks to be like a big job to get the exhaust pipes right.

There's that broadfoot company that seems to sell moded things but everyone says to stay away from them. LR turbos kind of just bolt in. I could also keep using the K27/8. I've heard you can get over 400HP on a K27. It ought to spool a lot quicker with the 3.0L.

I actively don't want a lot of power here. I don't want to be loosing my tires every time I lightly grace the pedal with my foot. Right now, at 300ish HP or whatever my car does, I cannot plant it all on 245 summers.

I added the Guards LSD and now I just spin two wheels instead of one when I gun it. Maybe I already am in the 350 range, I have no idea. The problem is that none of this power is under 3500 RPM.

So just want an easy bolt in or with adapter turbo that will spool like crazy, operate at sane boost (<18) but still let me keep up with... well at least say an Audi S5

gruhsy

Get the tial Gt35hta with the tial mount that GeorgeD posted about. The exhaust work is quite easy to have done. It's just bent exhaust pipe. Everyone always seems to over think this aspect

Player0

Well, up to $7672 spent already and I don't have a part to show for it yet! A fool and his money something something. Wanted to be under $15K on this build. Need some turbo exhaust valves. I'll get the pistons and rods after sending the block off to the shop. Need the turbo. Figure I'll have a shop extrude hone the intake, maybe get them to port match for me too. The intake is going to be the biggest let down here. Can always do a 16v phase II!

Player0

And I'm not counting the $550 Snap-On digital torque/angle wrench I just bought for this project. I'm so sick of ruining threads on things with cheapo torque wrenches. Not doing that on my new motor!

Jay Wellwood

What certification/calibration certs does that torque wrench come with?

fortysixandtwo

Check to see if that wrench adjusts low enough to use on the M6 studs used to attach the water and oil pumps. It doesn't take much to snap them or pull the threads out of the block. I picked up a Park Tool TW-5 to tighten them. I also use it on my bike too...

For finding the correct sized fasteners, the Katalog is a great source. Each bolt has diameter, length, and qty listed for each exploded view. If I recall correctly, they are all standard pitch, with the exception of the bell housing to block bolts, which are fine thread (M12-1.5). The exploded views even show whether the bolts are full or partially threaded.
There's a small price difference, but the yellow zinc bolts have a nice factory look to them.

Voith

Yellow zinc looks good, but corrodes relatively fast, if you are going to plate stuff, try to find cadmium plating facility or if that is banned like here, try to find shop that can do Trivalent Chromate plating. This is what modern day top brands are using.

https://epi.com/user/files/Trivalent...s%20FAQ(1).pdf

gruhsy

I would stay away from cadmium and stay with trivalent "chromate 3".
We just went through EH&S training again today on cadmium since it's on all the Mil-spec connectors and hardware we use. It's not nice stuff for your health and if not handled properly can cause some not so nice health issues.
We switched a while ago from using hex-chrome products to chromate 3 products as well.
Chromate 3 is not going to kill you down the road like cadmium and chromate 6.
Just my 2 cents

Player0

I don't know what certs the wrench has but it was expensive so it has to be good It does 12.5 to 250ftlbs. What is M8 usually, like 15, and something like 7 for M6? I have a Craftsman inch pound wrench which is probably a little accurate for the M6ers. Thanks for the warning though. I'll be careful with those guys.

Yeah! I've been looking at cadmium threads. That really looks great. Probably don't want anything toxic though hah. I might send a bunch of things out to get coated. On the other hand... it sounds like an organizational nightmare.

If you'd like to send me that collection of bolts and stuff, I'd really appreciate it

Yeah, I live and die by the Katalog. I even find it's not bad for knowing how to put things back together. Great for all the fiddly bits. Found the 968 version too.

Got my head, crank, and cam tower in today. Super exciting times!

Player0

Applied calipers to the crank tonight. I just have some el cheapo digital caliper which is probably NOT accurate to 2 hundredths of a millimeter. :P But I set them to the minimum spec for the crank.

The good news is that the crank is really really close to spec. The bad news is that it might be somewhat below spec. Either way, I don't have the tools to measure it accurately.

How far off can this thing really be? And is it worth it for me to get a better measurement tool before I incur the expense of mailing this thing off to be machined?

For the record, I was using 51.97 and 69.97 as the lower bounds on the crank. And I think I'm only accurate within +/- 0.02 here.

Player0

And my current micrometer is way too small. Bummer.

michaelmount123

I wouldn't worry much about your crank. It takes the proper measuring tools to spec it out, and it doesn't make much sense for you to invest in them. If the bearings from the core engine looked decent, and the thrust surfaces on the crank aren't grooved, the crank is likely fine. Oh, also make sure the bearings are STD size. The 944 cranks are pretty robust. A good shop will Magnaflux it for cracks, check it for straight, measure the journals, perhaps cross-drill #2 and 3, then polish it up.