REAR SUSPENSION SETUP
03-22-2015, 11:16 AM
#1
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REAR SUSPENSION SETUP
Doing a 4 wheel alignment with strings.
All the rubber has been replaced with spherical bearings.
Only problem is the left side rear sticks out 1/4" more than the right.
I have set the camber and toe, but its out of whack and i don't know if
that's the way it is supposed to be or an easy fix. Its like if i could shift the whole
setup 1/8" to the right its dead on.
I am going to go doe some measuring to see what i can find.
Any clues.
tks Gary
All the rubber has been replaced with spherical bearings.
Only problem is the left side rear sticks out 1/4" more than the right.
I have set the camber and toe, but its out of whack and i don't know if
that's the way it is supposed to be or an easy fix. Its like if i could shift the whole
setup 1/8" to the right its dead on.
I am going to go doe some measuring to see what i can find.
Any clues.
tks Gary
03-22-2015, 02:35 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
The torsion bar carrier has a slotted hole on the left side IIRC. Try loosening both body-to-carrier mounting bolts and use a prybar to push the whole assembly to the right. There's a little freeplay in the mounting holes and yours might have settled to the left. Loosen bolt #4 in this diagram;
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-06.htm
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-06.htm
03-23-2015, 01:06 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Also, when aligning, the string lines need to be set equi-distant from the hubs, not a body feature. So it won't matter if one side appears to stick out further than the other. Body lines are an unknown, especially on a track car that has hit a few things over the years.
04-03-2015, 10:54 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
You are lucky. I have a similar issue on my car after installing the Elephant bearings. The outer races of the bearings require a perfectly flat surface to seat against to ensure smooth bearing movement without binding.
The problem is, the casting quality of the outer torsion end cap/carrier pieces is not so great, and I had to file one of them a fair amount to get the outer race to sit flat. A side effect of this is it causes the end cap to sit closer to the torsion tube, which will also cause the bearing to bind. The instructions say to shim the end cap with washers as necessary to space it out and guarantee smooth operation. See link to instructions to see what I am talking about:
http://www.elephantracing.com/docume...onze-sprpl.pdf
The problem is, moving the end cap towards the outside of the car also moves the spring plate outwards, which changes its position relative to the control arm. The relationship between the control arm and spring plate dictates the rear alignment adjustment. As such, I cannot get enough toe-in on the left rear corner no matter what the camber angle is (there is plenty of toe adjustment on the right side). With solid bearings and control arm bushings, not nearly as much rear toe-in is needed as with stock rubber bushings and their massive deflection, but some would still be nice. I can barely get 0.05 degrees, and even that is a struggle as it wants to be at zero or even toe out unless i really pull on the wheel; I would like about 0.15 degrees.
Sadly I already tried prying the entire assembly to the right and it didn't do much, but I will try again this weekend when I have it on the alignment rack for some front end work.
What I really need is a Kokeln rear end! That would also correct the roll center, besides being much faster and easier to adjust.
The problem is, the casting quality of the outer torsion end cap/carrier pieces is not so great, and I had to file one of them a fair amount to get the outer race to sit flat. A side effect of this is it causes the end cap to sit closer to the torsion tube, which will also cause the bearing to bind. The instructions say to shim the end cap with washers as necessary to space it out and guarantee smooth operation. See link to instructions to see what I am talking about:
http://www.elephantracing.com/docume...onze-sprpl.pdf
The problem is, moving the end cap towards the outside of the car also moves the spring plate outwards, which changes its position relative to the control arm. The relationship between the control arm and spring plate dictates the rear alignment adjustment. As such, I cannot get enough toe-in on the left rear corner no matter what the camber angle is (there is plenty of toe adjustment on the right side). With solid bearings and control arm bushings, not nearly as much rear toe-in is needed as with stock rubber bushings and their massive deflection, but some would still be nice. I can barely get 0.05 degrees, and even that is a struggle as it wants to be at zero or even toe out unless i really pull on the wheel; I would like about 0.15 degrees.
Sadly I already tried prying the entire assembly to the right and it didn't do much, but I will try again this weekend when I have it on the alignment rack for some front end work.
What I really need is a Kokeln rear end! That would also correct the roll center, besides being much faster and easier to adjust.