ehall

Dash, you fail to take into account the time I saved, by sending them out. That time allowed my to accomplish 6 other projects. My time is worth far more than 100 bucks an hour.

Dash01

I beg your pardon and respectfully disagree, as I made no such failure: The simple device shown in the video can be made with free stuff probably laying around in most folks' garage, or at Wally for about $3/can for the carb cleaner. Their (or any) tire shop would probably give you a used tire stem, or such could be made with a short length of flexible fuel hose, shrink tubing, etc. and a pair of hose clamps. Alligator clips and a AA battery will energize the fuel injector--no need for a switch.

The procedure itself would take maybe two minutes per injector, starting with back-flush to clear the little internal screen. Much more time than that would be needed just to hunt up a box, attach label and postage, and send it off. Save the money for when it's really needed.

Collectively, this device may be free or cost less than $5 and would last for years. Should a given injector prove faulty after such cleaning, then spend the money on a replacement.

Injectors are, after all, just simple tubes with small orifice at one end, an on/off electromagnet and screen in the middle, and electrical contacts and inlet at the other end. When they fail, it's typically just varnish or crud clogging the screen and/or orifice. If the electromagnet fails the AA battery test, you'll know instantly that replacement is probably a better option than attempted repair.


I suppose ours is a difference in philosophy. I subscribe to what some may regard as the Jack Olsen school of thought, as noted in his excellent YouTube videos on affordable upgrades to his 911, such as his inexpensive mod which gave essentially the same (or better) improvement than done by other enthusiasts for $20K.

I encourage folks to also look to, say, the Experimental Aircraft Association, whose amateur members have devised a slew of cheap tricks to make better airplanes, in garages, than those done professionally by Wichita plane makers. EAAers have a vast body of knowledge applicable to maintaining and improving cars, too.

Dave W.

If you decide to clean the injectors yourself, make sure to use carb cleaner and not brake parts cleaner. Brake parts cleaner will strip away all residue and can cause the bare steel pintle to corrode and stick if left exposed to outside air. I like to use WD40 or other penetrating lube to apply a corrosion resistant coating inside the injector after cleaning. Most of the new high impedance (small body) injectors are more resistant to corrosion when exposed.

From FIC's website;
http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/faqs/

"An important thing to remember is that E85 is 85% ethanol; Alcohol based fuels (like ethanol) are hygroscopic (see technical data). That means that if the fuel stands for a while, it will draw water from the air and potentially start corroding (rusting) parts that are not protected. In any injector it is necessary for some of the internal parts to be made of ferrous metals since the electromagnet would not be able to open the valve if it were non-ferrous. These ferrous parts can corrode (rust) if not protected. Under normal conditions enough fuel flows through the system to expel the water and let the 15% gasoline do its job of both lubricating and protecting the internal parts against corrosion. If a vehicle is only run occasionally or the injectors are removed from the sealed fuel system, the injector parts can be exposed to conditions they are not designed for and cause the injector to lock up or change the flow rate."