Out of ideas
#32
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
yeah probably right, might just be 3 ". Good news got leak fixed. Bad news still wont boost. 6.4# was best which is less than spring pressure. Wound up eboost to SP 75 and although a little better, still not right. Didn't have a lot of chances to test but I will need to spend a little time sussing it out.
#33
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disconnect the solenoid and join the hoses together. this will give you "unlimited boost" best way to test the wastegate. if it opens up. somethings wrong. if it gives you more boost. then it's not that.
Be careful though. have ferry feet.. so once you read 12-13 psi. back off.
Be careful though. have ferry feet.. so once you read 12-13 psi. back off.
#34
Drifting
How old is you're DME Relay ? ( fuel pump relay )
The reason I mentioned it is because we see a lot of these play up at around 8 + years old ( average only )& when I mean play up I mean cut in and out ( intermittent operation )
Subnote }
DME Relay version 1 ) first three numbers on the relay starts with 944 ... ... .. = this version 20 + years old ( be scared if you have one of these )
DME Relay version 2 ) first three numbers on the relay starts with 993 ... ... 00 , and the last three numbers are 00 = this version can be up to 18 + years old ( way to old and these are the ones we are seeing playing up now )
DME relay version 3 ) first three numbers start with 993 ... ... 01 , and the last three numbers are 01, this version is the later version , but can still be some years old
So version one ( rarely see these days , may be on a super low Km garage queen )
Version two , if we see these we replace without hesitation
Version three , if look at our records & see if its getting near 7 + years( if the car is used every day ) & if so we replace
Second thing to not just check but replace is the round two pin electrical plug that is the power & earth supply to the electric main fuel pump ( its near the fuel filter in the area of the trans subframe )
These get internal corrosion & play up ( yes intermittent )
We cut these off & install a new male /female two pin electrical connector or you could just solder & heat shrink
The reason I mentioned it is because we see a lot of these play up at around 8 + years old ( average only )& when I mean play up I mean cut in and out ( intermittent operation )
Subnote }
DME Relay version 1 ) first three numbers on the relay starts with 944 ... ... .. = this version 20 + years old ( be scared if you have one of these )
DME Relay version 2 ) first three numbers on the relay starts with 993 ... ... 00 , and the last three numbers are 00 = this version can be up to 18 + years old ( way to old and these are the ones we are seeing playing up now )
DME relay version 3 ) first three numbers start with 993 ... ... 01 , and the last three numbers are 01, this version is the later version , but can still be some years old
So version one ( rarely see these days , may be on a super low Km garage queen )
Version two , if we see these we replace without hesitation
Version three , if look at our records & see if its getting near 7 + years( if the car is used every day ) & if so we replace
Second thing to not just check but replace is the round two pin electrical plug that is the power & earth supply to the electric main fuel pump ( its near the fuel filter in the area of the trans subframe )
These get internal corrosion & play up ( yes intermittent )
We cut these off & install a new male /female two pin electrical connector or you could just solder & heat shrink
#35
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
disconnect the solenoid and join the hoses together. this will give you "unlimited boost" best way to test the wastegate. if it opens up. somethings wrong. if it gives you more boost. then it's not that.
Be careful though. have ferry feet.. so once you read 12-13 psi. back off.
Be careful though. have ferry feet.. so once you read 12-13 psi. back off.
How old is you're DME Relay ? ( fuel pump relay )
The reason I mentioned it is because we see a lot of these play up at around 8 + years old ( average only )& when I mean play up I mean cut in and out ( intermittent operation )
Subnote }
DME Relay version 1 ) first three numbers on the relay starts with 944 ... ... .. = this version 20 + years old ( be scared if you have one of these )
DME Relay version 2 ) first three numbers on the relay starts with 993 ... ... 00 , and the last three numbers are 00 = this version can be up to 18 + years old ( way to old and these are the ones we are seeing playing up now )
DME relay version 3 ) first three numbers start with 993 ... ... 01 , and the last three numbers are 01, this version is the later version , but can still be some years old
So version one ( rarely see these days , may be on a super low Km garage queen )
Version two , if we see these we replace without hesitation
Version three , if look at our records & see if its getting near 7 + years( if the car is used every day ) & if so we replace
Second thing to not just check but replace is the round two pin electrical plug that is the power & earth supply to the electric main fuel pump ( its near the fuel filter in the area of the trans subframe )
These get internal corrosion & play up ( yes intermittent )
We cut these off & install a new male /female two pin electrical connector or you could just solder & heat shrink
The reason I mentioned it is because we see a lot of these play up at around 8 + years old ( average only )& when I mean play up I mean cut in and out ( intermittent operation )
Subnote }
DME Relay version 1 ) first three numbers on the relay starts with 944 ... ... .. = this version 20 + years old ( be scared if you have one of these )
DME Relay version 2 ) first three numbers on the relay starts with 993 ... ... 00 , and the last three numbers are 00 = this version can be up to 18 + years old ( way to old and these are the ones we are seeing playing up now )
DME relay version 3 ) first three numbers start with 993 ... ... 01 , and the last three numbers are 01, this version is the later version , but can still be some years old
So version one ( rarely see these days , may be on a super low Km garage queen )
Version two , if we see these we replace without hesitation
Version three , if look at our records & see if its getting near 7 + years( if the car is used every day ) & if so we replace
Second thing to not just check but replace is the round two pin electrical plug that is the power & earth supply to the electric main fuel pump ( its near the fuel filter in the area of the trans subframe )
These get internal corrosion & play up ( yes intermittent )
We cut these off & install a new male /female two pin electrical connector or you could just solder & heat shrink
I will check relay as not sure of age. I bought a replacement on ebay a while back but when I fitted it car would no longer start, so put the old one back in and she fired right up. Is there a cheaper option to OEM or should I just bite the bullet?
Is there a type of connector you would suggest for the fuel pump ?
#36
Drifting
The E Bay one you mentioned must of been either an old 2nd hand one = stuffed or a cheap nasty copy = does not work
You can only buy the correct Porsche supplied DME relay , anything else is a complete waste of money & they are not expensive
Choose any two pin connector you want or just solder & heat shrink the two wires ( Very Simple basic stuff )
You can only buy the correct Porsche supplied DME relay , anything else is a complete waste of money & they are not expensive
Choose any two pin connector you want or just solder & heat shrink the two wires ( Very Simple basic stuff )
#37
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The E Bay one you mentioned must of been either an old 2nd hand one = stuffed or a cheap nasty copy = does not work
You can only buy the correct Porsche supplied DME relay , anything else is a complete waste of money & they are not expensive
Choose any two pin connector you want or just solder & heat shrink the two wires ( Very Simple basic stuff )
You can only buy the correct Porsche supplied DME relay , anything else is a complete waste of money & they are not expensive
Choose any two pin connector you want or just solder & heat shrink the two wires ( Very Simple basic stuff )
I think I will put in a connector in, just in case unit needs to be removed but was thinking maybe I should use a sealed water proof connector to avoid corrosion in future. Reliability is something I aim for in the long term
Thanks for your help
#38
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Took off to just run down the local shop and car died on me a few hundred metres down the road. Couldn't restart it, so my neighbour came around and we jump started her but she died again. While I was waiting I checked the glove box and PO had left a spare DME relay in there, so fitted it and she fired right up Still has low boost issue, which I am about to to attack by using Pauly's suggested method, and see if it is wastegate. I have ordered a waterproof connector for fuel pump and will get that fitted when it gets here. Will order a new DME relay as a back up when PCB is open next week.
#40
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
OK did the test Pauly and no change, so that points to Tial being snafu. I also decided to throw some much needed wax at her and then did some cleaning under the bonnet. Started her up and she was running on 3 cylinders. Checked leads and all good, still on 3 cyl, when I touched #1 injector lead and she sparked up and started running on all 4, so will fit inj harness next day off and get that fixed.
#43
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Get the shop to inspect it. if you have a compressor, remove the gate and pump regulated air and see if the valve moves.
#44
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Already ordered a new one Pauly. I know it's shops fault, trust me but what I was getting at was it isn't faulty, and so receipts, warranty etc don't cover an idiot putting it on backwards. I will take that up with them later but for now just want car sorted.
Car will be off the road till I get harness fitted on sunday.
Car will be off the road till I get harness fitted on sunday.