Lippy951

What do mean tired engine? The compression/leakdown test were all good. My guess is a bad maybe bad turbo or wastegate.

Lippy951

Ok, sorry I haven't updated this post because I got side tracked with the car again. I when to pick up the car just before Christmas. The mechanic said the inlet site of the wastegate was leaking and fixed it. The car was boosting like crazy, around 20psi. I actually shut the EBC off and ran off the spring which was boosting around 16psi. Which is where I want it. I the way home, I gunned it on the highway and blew the vacuum hose off the bottom port of the wastegate. Needless to say, I got home and fixed it. However, I notice the car was overheating. I just had the water pump done less than 6 months ago. I saw oil in the cooling tank. It was the oil cooler seals (luckly not the head gasket, it also solve my issue of where I was losing coolant). Previous owner change one of the o-ring and not both. Driving me crazy. Well I took the car for a drive today and it has trouble boosting again. With the EBC off, it will only go 10psi. I have 14psi springs and confirm this with a pressure test. Any reason why this would open up at 10psi? It is a Turbosmart Hypergate 45. And still running rich. I figure I would solve the boost issue first.

mahoney944

Either losing exhaust before the turbos exhaust turbine or a vac leak some where is usually what causes low boost. check the bypass valve for damage on its diaphragm. And that no vac lines are off or broken. If the bypass valve doesn't seal fully you'll never reach full boost as it will equalize the boost to atmosphere when trying to boost.. Other ideas are exhaust obstruction; the down pipe, crossover, and headers have a thin liner inside that's known for collapsing blocking the exhaust flow. The cat has a similar effect when blocked. Running rich tells me it's probably on the intake side of things. The AFM or maff will still read higher air flows since its pre turbo making higher fuel mixtures. If you loose that air before it reaches the cylinders use it then you'll be running with too much fuel.

Lippy951

The BOV is new from motorsports, no diaphragm, it has a cylinder. Check the vacuum lines, all good. The exhaust pipes look good and I have no cat. The boost issues, not the rich condition, started after another shop replace the wastegate and crossover line. I have been focusing on this area. I have a Turbosmart Hypergate 45. It funny that is was overboosting then back to the same condition. When I drive is feels like wants to boost but the wastegate is opening early or something. I get some fluttering from the WG. I put pressure to bottom port of WG and it opens at 15psi. When I turn on the EBC at 60% duty cycle, it will boost up to 16psi, (before the work it would be at 18 or 19 psi). Takes awhile to do it. My questions are: if the inlet side of the WG is leaking at the v-band, would this cause my issue? Do in need to put some type of gasket in there. Why can I build more than 10psi running off intercooler pipe? I should at least make the spring pressure. Thanks for your help.

Willard Bridgham 3

How many ********* do you have, then?

Lippy951

Ok, I took the wastegate off and saw some blow by at the of the v-band, about half an inch long. I am going to put the WG back in carefully and see what happens. Would that blow by cause that much of an issue? Can I use some type of copper gasket or something to make sure this is sealed up?

mahoney944

Well yeah, any loss in exhaust flow before the turbo will be added lag and results in lower peak boost because less exhaust is turning the turbo.

Just to make sure, you did remove the cycling valve and added the venturri delete kit when installing the new controller correct? A buddy of mine tried installing a MBC with the cycling valve before and had a fluttering wastegate with boost issues.

Lippy951

Being fairly new to a turbo, I never thought something that small would affect things that much. Live and learn. I picked up some valve grinding compound and will clean the flanges really good. The v-band clamp is a cheap one that came with the WG. I ordered a Vibrant clamp to replace it. Hopefully this will do the trick. Next up, solve the running rich issue.

Yes, the cycling valve and venturi line was deleted when I got the car. I tested the EBC solenoid valve and looks good there.

Thanks for your input.

JacRyann

One sure way to test and confirm it's the wastegate is to remove it completely. Install a block-off plate/circle at the wastegate inlet in the crossover and gently test the car. This will be the best possible boost-curve you can get, 18psi @ 3500pms even. If you get this, then yes, wastegate mechanical issue is to blame.

Once you get the wastegate installation fixed, then program the boost-controller to give as close to the rapid-rise of boost you experienced before with no wastegate. I actually programme lower & gentler onset of boost in the 1st two gears as traction-control.

Lippy951

Wouldn't I overboost and damage something? Are you saying the M-Tune would prevent it from going above 18psi?

doabarrelroll

Getting the turbo out is like a 3 hour job. Why not just pull it to double-check?

Lippy951

Never done it before. I am sure it would take me longer than that. Plus I found some other issues first.

Lippy951

Ok, my saga continues. Here is an update. I got the car fixed and test drove it. Noticed I was a little laggy. I saw soot around the pipe with the wastegate. Took it off and cleaned it up and replaced it with a new t-bolt band. Took is for a ride, still laggy. I took off the wastegate to check it. Clean as a whistle. This is a two piece crossover so I looked over to the other clamp going up to the turbo. I saw soot. So I dropped the crossover pipe. I think I know why my car is acting up. Here is what I found.
1. The t-bolt clamp for that connection was clamped all the way down. One size to big.
2. The flanges are two flat surfaces. No crush ring or male/female connection. Plus they stuck a copper gasket in-between the two. All the surface areas were black as night. Plus the one surface was very scratched up due to the exhaust gases I assume.
3. Now this is interesting. I am looking at the crossover pipe that they rebuilt (the first shop that I pulled the car out of). I noticed couple things. One, the two mating surface were off center by 7mm and had space between the two. Second, I figured the new pipe should have an expansion joint in there and there was none. The original crossover pipe had two wall system to allow for expansion.

I am guessing that as the pipe heated up, it expanded. The weakest link would the that V-band since everything else is bolt up nice and tight. BTW, I used copper gaskets in the exhaust manifold and where exhaust manifold connection to the crossover pipe. Never took off the second part of the crossover. From what I read, I am lucky not to have done some other damage. What do you guys think? Am I right?

Lippy951

Ok here is an update.

The exhaust leaks were fix. All buttoned up.

Issues found:

1. ISV plug was bad keeping the valve open. Replaced the plug and tested the ISV. All fixed.

2. When I took the plugs out they were covered in gas. Upon further inspection. The plug were two heat ranges too cold. I put spec plugs in and looking good.

3. Running rich. I have the m-tune in with 80lb injectors. I have a 3 bar FPR. Had is set to 43psi. Joshua had me drop it down to 2.5 bar or 36 psi. So far she is boosting with a A/F ration of no lower than 11.5 were as before it dropped below 10. So far so good. There is a good article on rennlist under the heading "choosing the right fuel pressure" I really help me out understand fuel pressure.

Thanks for all your help! Next up, installation of KW V3 suspension.