JoeNational

Thankfully Cyril actually sent me the instructions just earlier this morning.

Here is what I have so far.

12v going to the diagnostics port where the red wire connects (I have now put a proper bullet sytle terminal on there so its more snuggly fit)

Pulled the tps connections off and have 4.5v on the #6 connection but nothing on #4. This was just with the key in and ign on. I'm going to test to see what it does with the plug disconnected. There is no #5 at all, I assume this is normal.

Also here it is with the car running.. she was completely fine until it started to warm up. The video link is after it was running for a few minutes. Then went into this limp mode.

fast951

Responded to your emails and sent you the instructions.

As someone suggested already, I would start by checking the IDLE switch at the DME vs. at the TPS itself.
Also check DME #7 as I described in one of my emails.

JoeNational

John,

I cant thank you enough... really do appreciate the assitance.

Very new to working on this car so pleae excuse my ignorance.

blackbull

I have experienced this kind of problem with a Nissan 350Z I had. Turned out to be a cam position sensor.

black944 turbo

Where in Nc are you? I am in the Charlotte area and may be able to help you out some time.

JoeNational

OK, here are the readings:

#7 on DME plug I get a reading... I have checked this a few times and started with 0.06 and when I got a better a ground went to over 10v

#6 on DME plug I get a reading... got about 4-5v

#4 on DME plug I get a reading but its a negative reading -0.23... Not sure what this is about.

Once again this was on the plug disconnected from the bigger box on the left. (want to make sure I'm looking at the right plug). Goes from 1-18 first row and 19-35 on the second row if I remember correctly.

I'm located right near Raleigh NC so unfortunetly a good hike away

Would a bad cam sensor come in after the car has warmed up a bit? I would think a bad cam sensor would make it hard to start and never run right. This car starts and runs no problem when cold and holds an idle the entire time. It is once she has warmed up a bit that it goes into this limp mode as you see from the video.

fast951

You are welcome. Glad to see you doing the work yourself and learning in the process.

fast951

Something does not sound right here:

- #7 is the MAF voltage. At idle it should read "around" 0.6v. When you rev the engine, you should see the voltage go up.
The MAF voltage is in the 0-5Vdc range, you should not be seeing 10V on #7.
If you are actually seeing 10Vdc on #7 I would check the MAF GROUND wires. Refer to the instructions I sent you to determine which 2 wires are the ground ones.

For the TPS, there are 2 pins on the DME we are concerned with. DME #2 (Idle) and DME #3 (WOT).
Based on the symptoms you described, you need to verify continuity between DME #2 and GROUND. The state should change once you open the throttle.

You will need to open the 35-pin connector and proe the pins from the back (front side of connector must be connected to DME).

Since the problem behaves differently based on engine temps, you will need to run the tests under both conditions cold & hot. Compare the results.

That's where I would start. It can be a bit time consuming, but doable. This is why I suggested you get the Motronic Monitor, as you'll see all the variables live on the screen..

Post back your results. It's probably something simple. You'll be driving in no time.

JoeNational

Ok, so did a bit more probing and been cleaning up some wires that were deadends... seems the previous owner just left some wires that were hooked up to fog lights and what not. This makes me want to check the grounds and wiring that much more.

In the video you can see the car is running completely fine (it was cold at this point). The second I disconnected the MAF she died. Is there more to the Air Temp sensor that is built into the MAF itself? Has that ever caused this issue in the past?

fast951

When you disconnect the MAF the engine is very likely to shut off. Normal.
The IAT built into the MAF will not cause the problems you describe.

Concentrate on the tests outlined above.

JoeNational

Ok, will do.

Stupid question... How does one test from the back of the DME? It is completely blocked from access with that big plastic clip. Also am I looking at the right DME unit from my above explanation?

I will be traveling this week to Tampa so if I'm not posting results this is why. I feel like I'm getting closer...

You all have been great!!!

JoeNational

OK, so I have double checked and tested everything... All seems to check out from what I have heared and read. I also just replaced the O2 sensor and guess what..... NO change ... I have now lost my mind...

JoeNational

So I wanted to update everyone and also for anyone who does future research... Steve from 944online was gracious enough to offer testing my KLR and DME for me. Well.. verdict was the Chip crapped out. Once the DME would get warm during operation it would freak out (his words ). After replacing the chip everything was normal. Fixed a few other cracks it had (was not the culprit at all) and all should be good. I will have them next week and see what happens from there..

I know I may be jumping the gun since I have not put the computers back in yet but I'm feeling confident that the car will be alive again.

Thanks again everyone for the help!

azbanks

Which chip?

JoeNational

It was the Chip in the DME. Not sure what you mean exactly?