fejjj

Thanks for all your help guys!

I really appreciate the helpfulness of the 944 community!

mikey_audiogeek

+1
Mike

blade7

I wonder what KW's stance is on this ?

Paulyy

Simplicity. The idea is to swap out the shocks and put in their coilovers. You need to lower the eccentric bolts because theres more spring holding up the car so the car will be higher when the springs are preloaded.

It's more difficult to remove the t bars for the average road user.

Van

It's usually more difficult to do a job right.

Nothing against KW, it's just that when you want something perfect, it usually requires extra effort.

Paulyy

Is why i reindexed mine.

fejjj

Paully,

You reindexed yours for lower ride height and or to get more preload on the spring?

I lowered the spring plate all the way and I am happy with the ride height but I think I need more preload on the spring.

Paulyy

This is what happened for me:

I lowered the T-bars to lower the car, but also knowing there will be more preload so the car wouldn't be as low as i set it.

I actually thought it might be to low after re indexing.

Before installing the coilovers, i adjusted the spring perch to be higher than what it came with.

I dropped car car on the ground. and noticed it was way to high. I had to get out of the shop as it was getting late. so i put it on the lowest recommended setting from KW. It was quite low. wheel tucking in the rear.

When i took it for an alignment, i noticed the helper spring weren't fully compressed so i raised the car and adjusted the perches until when i drop the car the helpers where fully compressed.

I left my spring plates alone just incase i needed to go lower.

blade7

There is a ride height given in the instructions so if you couldn't achieve that on the spring plates you'd have to re-index or remove the bars. Maybe my car had been re-indexed lower in the past and that's why I could compress the springs and still have correct/level ride height. I'd say it's easier to pull the bars and fit stiffer springs than to adjust the torsion bars.

fejjj

How long does it take to remove the bars?

Paulyy

Sending the KWs back to USA to get the springs changed isn't feasible

In the instructions it says to drop the eccentric bolts. I re indexed my Tbars to lower the car a little bit also.

A few hours on a hoist. It isn't that difficult. You'll need to get an alignment though.

fejjj

How long did it take you to reindex?

Paulyy

I took the whole Tbar out and had it on the table.

Took probably 10 mins to unbolt it because the bolts where stubborn. To actually re index them took me a bit of time. I followed clarks garage steps to remove it ect. But his steps for indexing weren't that great. scribing a line and working off that was very useless.

I used a measuring tape and measured the distance from the spring place to the torsion bar support that arches over the spring plate. So now you can accurately adjust the torsion bars.

I'm not going to go in-depth on how the torsion bar splines work, but the inner torsion bar has 40 splines and the outer end has 44 splines.

At this time, you should wright down your measurements on each time (both should be the same and make sure you measure in the same spots on each side)
When removing the end piece with the spring plate, before removing the torsion bar, mark with a scriber or white paint pen exactly where the torsion bar is on the spring plate and in the tube. so if anything goes wrong you can put it back in the original spot.

Now to index it,
if you just rotate it one spline it will be way to low or high depending which way you adjust it. So the idea of having 40 & 44 splines is so you turn one oneway and the other the other way to get a small amount of adjustment which turns out to be 6.5mm

(i lowered mine 13mm) but 6.5mm would be more ideal for stock height.

To lower, remove the inside spline of the torsion bar (40 spline) and rotate it Counter Clock Wise (CCW) 1 spline, then rotate the outer spring plate 1 spline Clock Wise (CW) you should be lower by 6.5mm

Repeat for another 6.5mm if so...

push it back in then measure from the spring plate to the arm and see how much distance you've traveled. IICR it should be at least 3-4mm. (i forgot how much it was) if you get it correct the first time, you will see how much but it should be lower then 6.5mm as its closer to the pivot point than the wheel is.

if it's to much as you've accidentally moved one of the splines one to many you will notice it so just rotate one back then measure. if it's incorrect then put that back in and try the other side.

I stuffed one side up and with some adjusting, i got it to where i want it. Its quite easy to adjust.

Repeat for the other side. But now you know how much lower one side is so adjusting this one will be easier.

fejjj

Paully,

Thanks for taking the time to write this!

Given the info you provided, how many hours will it take a shop to do all this as I need to budget for it?

Paulyy

No problem

could be a days work.

http://www.oz951.com/public/docs/

Read the torsionbarsetup.doc That's what i also followed. Pictures are good also.