Few issues after A-Tune install - long one.
09-05-2014, 11:43 PM
#16
Regarding your idle, see the lindsey racing procedure as opposed to clark. If I recall, clark is step 4 of the lindsey write up. Go roll your throttle by hand - if it doesn't immediately click, you need steps 1-3 first.
09-06-2014, 09:35 AM
#17
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TPS clicks when I just touch the throttle - maybe 2 deg. max turn.
No dyno today... I'll do few rounds with different sets of computers instead and see how it works. For now #1 suspect for low boost is KLR. Still not sure about idle and jerking however I'll check with different computers.
No dyno today... I'll do few rounds with different sets of computers instead and see how it works. For now #1 suspect for low boost is KLR. Still not sure about idle and jerking however I'll check with different computers.
09-06-2014, 03:05 PM
#18
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Boost is back! It must have been faulty KLR. I'll try tomorrow again with good working KLR and A-Tune to see how it goes.
But I lost light in engine compartment instead ... lol If I only had problems like this...
But I lost light in engine compartment instead ... lol If I only had problems like this...
09-11-2014, 09:21 PM
#19
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If anybody is interested in - car runs fine (boost) with Rogue chip back in DME. I still have high idle issue but I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with A-Tune, just a coincidence that it started when I swapped chips. I still have this annoying jerking when lifting off the foot however now it seems to move to 1900 rpm. Anyway, it is still there around 2000 rpm. When I tried stock DME and good KLR this problem disappeared...
09-12-2014, 01:59 AM
#20
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The high idle and the jerk when lifting are related.
The jerk is the injectors turning back on. The high idle, which could mean the ISV driver is bad, means more air is entering the engine than desired. On lift-off, when the injectors turn back on, the extra air means a harder 'kick'.
At this point I would check the ISV driver transistors & wiring.
The jerk is the injectors turning back on. The high idle, which could mean the ISV driver is bad, means more air is entering the engine than desired. On lift-off, when the injectors turn back on, the extra air means a harder 'kick'.
At this point I would check the ISV driver transistors & wiring.
09-12-2014, 02:32 AM
#21
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Joshua thanks for your reply. I would rule out the harness - when I put the motor in the car last year I checked the harness throughly - I wouldn't say I rebuild it but I replaced broken plugs/boots, soldered some joints and checked most of the wires for continuity.
I read Eddie's post about ISV transistors replacement - should be easy enough to replace them, I feel comfortable with soldering electronic components.
When I set up idle this time I borrowed a meter that my friend uses in his shop. It proved two things - my tacho shows higher values than real ones (approx. 150 rpm high) and that my Chinese meter is more less accurate. Anyway, when I set up idle using signal from pin 1 DME for 850 rpm it was nice and steady as long as pins in diagnostic port were shortened. As soon as I removed the bridge idle rised to approx. 1000 - 1050, fluctuating slowly +/- 30 rpms.
As I ruled out (I hope) TPS, temp sensor, vacuum leaks except for small leak from AOS top cap it looks like main suspects are AC signal to the DME and ISV transistors. What about altitude switch? Will it add or cut fuel? I'm at sea level.
I read Eddie's post about ISV transistors replacement - should be easy enough to replace them, I feel comfortable with soldering electronic components.
When I set up idle this time I borrowed a meter that my friend uses in his shop. It proved two things - my tacho shows higher values than real ones (approx. 150 rpm high) and that my Chinese meter is more less accurate. Anyway, when I set up idle using signal from pin 1 DME for 850 rpm it was nice and steady as long as pins in diagnostic port were shortened. As soon as I removed the bridge idle rised to approx. 1000 - 1050, fluctuating slowly +/- 30 rpms.
As I ruled out (I hope) TPS, temp sensor, vacuum leaks except for small leak from AOS top cap it looks like main suspects are AC signal to the DME and ISV transistors. What about altitude switch? Will it add or cut fuel? I'm at sea level.
09-12-2014, 04:44 AM
#22
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The altitude switch will pull 6% fuel.
Have you gone through this TPS check:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-06.htm
Have you gone through this TPS check:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-06.htm
08-28-2015, 11:05 AM
#24
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I'm bringing my old thread back to top rather than start new one. I still have high idle issue but now I know (I hope) why. As I started to use Rogue logger it becomes pretty obvious - DME thinks that AC is on all the time and adds approx. 100 RPM on top of idle. This would be expected if AC was really on but my AC does not work. I physically checked signal to DME pin #29 - no voltage is present so there is no short circuit in the harness. I also swapped current Rogue ECU I'm using with A Tune with my old one (standard DME with unknown origin tune software burned) and this problem disappears - car idles at approx. 850 rpm, AC shows off condition.
Has any one experienced anything like this? Is there a trick to overcome this issue or it is something with my A tune chip or ECU?
I tried to contact Joshua but I guess he's busy, can't blame him for being busy....
Has any one experienced anything like this? Is there a trick to overcome this issue or it is something with my A tune chip or ECU?
I tried to contact Joshua but I guess he's busy, can't blame him for being busy....
08-28-2015, 11:15 AM
#25
I'm bringing my old thread back to top rather than start new one. I still have high idle issue but now I know (I hope) why. As I started to use Rogue logger it becomes pretty obvious - DME thinks that AC is on all the time and adds approx. 100 RPM on top of idle. This would be expected if AC was really on but my AC does not work. I physically checked signal to DME pin #29 - no voltage is present so there is no short circuit in the harness. I also swapped current Rogue ECU I'm using with A Tune with my old one (standard DME with unknown origin tune software burned) and this problem disappears - car idles at approx. 850 rpm, AC shows off condition.
Has any one experienced anything like this? Is there a trick to overcome this issue or it is something with my A tune chip or ECU?
I tried to contact Joshua but I guess he's busy, can't blame him for being busy....
Has any one experienced anything like this? Is there a trick to overcome this issue or it is something with my A tune chip or ECU?
I tried to contact Joshua but I guess he's busy, can't blame him for being busy....
What happens if you add voltage to the AC pin?
08-31-2015, 05:24 PM
#27
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If anyone ever goes through this thread - I got reply from Josh. He says that AC ON indication is just a bug in logger software. With regards to idle - A Tune is set to idle higher than stock so my 950 - 1000 RPM is most probable right and correct, AC compressor switched on would add another 100 RPM on top of it resulting in 1100 RPM.