i don't remember but is that plastic that you screwed the metel flang into on the afm? does it seal good?

 

I'm not for sure on what your asking Indiana. but...

In pic #2 you can't see everything, but it goes like this.
AFM->Gasket->Black Plastic->Metal Adapter

The metal adapter peice is'nt fitted perfectly, but could be. Either way its getting more air than it was before.

sh944,
I had asked about it (headlight + AFM) and most people said anyway its done looks cheesy and don't work very well. I think they were reffering to the engineering. Tonight when I change the oil I'll look into the re-arranging of the AFM and Filter.

 

did ya get the filter from a toyota dealer? or just ordered one for a toyota truck?

 

Indiana,
I got it from ebay. Ebay is always a good place for parts. I'd go with this same seller if your going to buy one. The guy is great, fast shippting and well it works great lol. Every once in a while you'll find an actual K&N with the adapter etc, I missed the last one that sold for $35.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2426652065

 

that ebay auction says 3 inch filter.is that the size or the opening or the filter itself.a local performance shop sells filters like that.

scott

 

Hey bud,
Thats the size of the opening

I probibily got everything locally, but there are no "speed" shops here in NW ohio. Not unless I drive an hour to Ft.Wayne or toledo.

 

Okay guys here is our secret tip for fixing the hot air suck problem with cone filters and give about a good 10 hp bump if not more.

It is a little hard to describe. So, if I confuse anyone, just email me at chris@speed-6.com and I will send you our instructions.

But basically, you duct fresh air via an underside duct into the factory snorkle and air box lid on to your cone filter. We called it a cold air bath. It works so well because it provides a stream of cold air to the filter and works with the vacuum effect under the car when you drive. The factory lid keeps the hot air away and shields the filter especially with cold air blowing on it.

Here is what you need:
- Hi temp coiled hose -- see jcwhitney for FRESH AIR DUCT HOSE--diameter to match snorkel side that goes in the fender well.
- Brake duct used for 911 brake cooling kits -- try coast fabrication in Hunnington Beach, CA or I have an extra one
- Clamps to hook it all together -- any Home Depot
- Your existing air box top only and snorkel
- A bracket you will have to make -- use anything metal that can be bent and drilled

1. The cone filter need to be long and thin. Not all will work. We used ITG filters that were 4.5" diameter and about 6" long. I have one or two if anyone is interested.
2. Attach the coiled hose to the end of the snorkel and route to the underside of the car.
3. Find a suitable mounting point for duct on the underside of the car and connect the coiled hose. We mounted ours on the underside tray. Be careful of clearance issues.
4. Make bracket to hold airbox lid securely over your air filter using existing airbox mounting points or left side as you stand in front of car.
5. Feel more power for about $75
6. Let me know if you try it and what you think.

This assumes you have the cone filter and air meter adapter already.

Thanks,
Chris
chris@speed-6.com
www.speed-6.com
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Hmm... sounds interesting any pics??

Oh yeah Chris... you have mail

 

To clarify the air bath proceedure is for 944 Turbos but should work with other 944s.

Also, I can't find the underside pics with the duct. But here is the top pic on my old 944 turbo -- not very good -- look at the bracket and filter under the lid.




Chris
http://www.speed-6.com
chris@speed-6.com

 

I was wondering if you could explain it a little different. I think I am going to try that but want to make sure I do it good and not just half-a@@. Also, is it at all possible to take any other pictures of it? Like one maybe from under the car up or something like that? Also where it connects in? Thanks

 

Hey Mike,
Would you be talking to speed6 or myself?

 

If you notice on my motor, I also left the stock snorkel for additional cold air, but didn't add the top of the box. Why would you add the box to the top of filter instead of the bottom? You would think the hot air would still be sucking in the bottom of the filter since heat rises and the radiator is below the filter. Not so much the top since it is being blocked by the hood.

Also I used a small K&N filter for the belt vent hole. This setup seems to be working pretty well.

 

Thanks for the tip.

BTW, Looks good M8.

 

To answer a previous questions, you cannot use the bottom of the air box with a cone filter -- it won't fit as this is the piece that connects to the air meter

Also, after testing, we saw little benefit and a lot of cost to build a bottom cover and mate it to the airbox lid.

Trust us on this one. Try it out and let me know what you think. I am pretty sure you will notice a nice difference. Plus, once you are done with our mod, you can then start on the bottom.

If you want to try, we used powder coated aluminum bent around the filter with nothing on the end and bolted to to the original airbox lid (basically a "u" around the filter). We saw little increase and some decreases in power with this design. Remember, this is a mod that won't show a lot on a dyno because you need the air flow from driving to produce results.

The problem we found was air flow. You need to give an open system plenty of air otherwise you lose power and create a restriction. With a closed system (the factory airbox design), the airbox itself sucks air from the snorkle with a vacuum effect. I guess it would be possible to create a fully sealed chamber for the cone. We were not willing to do this do to cost.

 

Right on Chris. I may give it a try. I like your idea about putting an intake duct under the car routed to the snorkel. I'll defiantly add that.