rocketrider2

I was pulling off from the stop light when I had just crossed the intersection and the car lost power and died. When I tried to restart it it just cranked over but would not start. Observing the gauges I did have movement from the tach, the boost gauge went to 1 bar when the key was turned on. Power worked in the car, windows, stereo, etc.
The car has 105k miles on it, timing belt done at 100K miles. Car is a stock 1988 and I have had no issues with the car beyond a bad front strut and some sunroof repairs. The car has been trouble free and all maintenance is kept up.
Reading on here I am inclined to think I have a bad DME. I wound up having it flat bedded to Abacus Racing here in Hampton Roads as they are the shop I use for my cars. Just trying to get an idea where to maybe start looking.

Thanks
Lane

944Phil

It sounds electrical. My car did the EXACT same thing. Died in an intersection. Luckily it started after a bit of cranking and I just turned around and went home. For me it was my DME that was crapping out.

I would start by checking the basics, like fuel pressure and spark. Then check continuity of the harness.

Paulyy

mine has done this a few times. Turned out to be frayed injector wires. as soon as they touch, your car shuts off.

FRporscheman

Try a noid light in the injector plugs to confirm they are getting a steady signal while cranking.

Paulyy

should have mentioned this.

This is how i found how my injector wires where touching. I think you mean diod? LED.. you'll need to make sure the polarities are the correct way, which is just swapping the pins around

ekoz

Check the connectors for your speed and reference sensors. I had the metal clip fail. They looked plugged in, but were loose. Pushed them back in and started right up. After I paid to have it towed or course

Cyberpunky

when you find the cause please update

rocketrider2

As soon as I get news I will let everyone know. Last I heard they believe it is crankshaft sensor. I will however let them know what has been mentioned here.

Lane

FRporscheman

A "noid light" is a light used for testing injector wiring (probably from the word "solenoid"). An LED works well. I sometimes use a small incandescent bulb.

Willard Bridgham 3

Bad solder joint in the DME?

odurandina

condolences.

rocketrider2

Well the verdict is in. The DME is dead. At first we thought all was well. They went in and re=flowed the soldier in the DME, replaced the crankshaft sensor. I picked it up and drove about 10 miles and the car shut off. Again back to the shop where they have had it till it has completely failed.
At this point I need to replace the DME, my shop is recommending to try and have it rebuilt by Lutz (sp).
I am open for suggestions. The long range plans were to have a Rogue A tune done to support the bigger turbo, new exhaust, cat by pass pipe, FPR, etc. The only pieces I had not gathered were bigger injectors. But about a year ago I had decided to keep the car stock but I do still have all the parts.
So I guess the question is what do I do for a new DME?

Thanks
Lane

Bill

If you need a new DME and will be getting the Rogue A Tune, it would make sense to me to buy the upgraded Rogue DME.

FRporscheman

There's always Lart. If you haven't heard of Lart, he's a user here that parts out 944s and 951s (Lart951).

rocketrider2

I know Rogue has been busy with the new addition and everything, how much is the Rogue DME and I wonder what the availability is?

Thanks
Lane