wastegate mounted backwards now car has serious issues
#16
Three Wheelin'
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No car was fine after I got work done, apart from overboosting. Not knowing WG was around wrong way I kept pulling settings lower on eboost till all at zero, then I bypassed it completely and it was only then I worked out over boosting was because WG was fitted wrong. The problem of car running bad started before I had bypassed eboost.
Not sure on leads and rotor etc although plugs are fairly new. I might try fitting new rotor cap and leads
Not sure on leads and rotor etc although plugs are fairly new. I might try fitting new rotor cap and leads
#17
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Bruce,
I had similar issues when my IC pipe from IC to TB blew off.
Check all of your intake connections closely as even if one has not blown off, it may be hanging on for dear life.
I had similar issues when my IC pipe from IC to TB blew off.
Check all of your intake connections closely as even if one has not blown off, it may be hanging on for dear life.
#19
Three Wheelin'
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I will have a good look at all hose connections as this makes sense with symptoms I have.
WG and eboost are working as they should be and all hooked up properly.
I am also thinking O2 sensor could be culprit as reading another thread car had similar symptoms. Any thoughts?
WG and eboost are working as they should be and all hooked up properly.
I am also thinking O2 sensor could be culprit as reading another thread car had similar symptoms. Any thoughts?
#20
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I will have a good look at all hose connections as this makes sense with symptoms I have.
WG and eboost are working as they should be and all hooked up properly.
I am also thinking O2 sensor could be culprit as reading another thread car had similar symptoms. Any thoughts?
WG and eboost are working as they should be and all hooked up properly.
I am also thinking O2 sensor could be culprit as reading another thread car had similar symptoms. Any thoughts?
#21
Three Wheelin'
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Thanks Pauly
one thing I have noticed is that the problem always seems to happen at about the same distance from work or home, which is just after car has gotten to operating temprature.
one thing I have noticed is that the problem always seems to happen at about the same distance from work or home, which is just after car has gotten to operating temprature.
#22
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Have you pressurized your intake? I agree it seems most logical that you have a large boost leak. Symptoms seem to agree and all the events leading up to this would make sense.
#23
Three Wheelin'
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I don't have a way to pressurise the intake. Will pull off air box and try and check all fittings on my RDO this week. Does seem most logical cause to me too
#24
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What kind of AFR'S are you seeing under boost/WOT?
#27
Three Wheelin'
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replaced TPS yesterday but no change. Couldn't find any obvious leaks but I know that is not something that means I can cross leaks off the list yet. I am thinking I may fit a new o2 sensor next, as I doubt it has been changed in a long time, so even if it's not the problem, it's a little preventative maintenance.
#28
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It could be the AFM barn door sticking - I've just had that with mine just a couple of weeks ago after a turbo replacement. The new turbo pulled in enough air on full boost to put the barn door in a "new" spot where it would stick. Symptoms were hesitating like a misfire on acceleration, and then it stuck open completely, car stopped and wouldn't start again - injectors were pumping in heaps of fuel - similar symptoms to a failing fuel regulator.
#29
Three Wheelin'
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The barn door seems a very likely candidate to me as over boosting could well have caused same problem you had CBR. How did you fix it ?
I have seen pricing on replacement AFM's and I think I would rather go a MAF but to be honest can't afford either at this point.
I have seen pricing on replacement AFM's and I think I would rather go a MAF but to be honest can't afford either at this point.
#30
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Hi Bruce
I took the AFM out and with a screwdriver gently pushed the door open and closed while spraying the mechanism with some electrical lubricant spray. Not sure what was causing it to stick as this seemed to do the trick. While I had it out of the car I also took the cap off and moved the contact arm to a new part of the resistor strip, just to make sure that was working as it should, but the wear there seemed unlikely to have caused the sticking problem.
David
I took the AFM out and with a screwdriver gently pushed the door open and closed while spraying the mechanism with some electrical lubricant spray. Not sure what was causing it to stick as this seemed to do the trick. While I had it out of the car I also took the cap off and moved the contact arm to a new part of the resistor strip, just to make sure that was working as it should, but the wear there seemed unlikely to have caused the sticking problem.
David