Installing EMPI Half Shafts - What do I need?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: If it's the wknd, I'm at a track...
Posts: 666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Installing EMPI Half Shafts - What do I need?
My pr of EMPI 90-6805 half shafts (w/CV's) just arrived. What do I need to install these things? Should I be replacing the CV bolts or can I simply reuse what's on the car?
Don't want to dig into this project and realize there's something else I need.
Thx
Michael
I'm expecting it to take me longer than blown 944's recent at-the-track 11 minute swap (or whatever incredible short time it was)
Don't want to dig into this project and realize there's something else I need.
Thx
Michael
I'm expecting it to take me longer than blown 944's recent at-the-track 11 minute swap (or whatever incredible short time it was)
#2
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: If it's the wknd, I'm at a track...
Posts: 666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In reviewing Clark's Garage for removal/installation of CV/Half Shafts, it appears (and feel free to correct me if/where I'm incorrect) that for the EMPI pieces install, as the CV's are already installed and greased, this should be a fairly simple "remove the old and replace with the new" process. I have all the tools Clark's says I need so the only question is that of the bolts. i.e. Should they be replaced with new rather than reusing the old?
Thoughts/Comments?
Thoughts/Comments?
#3
I have reused my bolts when i repacked my CVs. I think you will be alright reusing them as well. The CV job should be pretty straight forward, and you are correct, the halfshafts and the CV are one unit when installed. Good luck.
#4
Rennlist Member
Reuse, just brake clean bolts and flange holes. Torque to 33-35 lbs. Loosen trans side first and then hub side using a flat screwdriver in the rotor vent to limit rotation. Install is reverse starting with the hub side followed by the trans side. BTW, The empi's are a bit longer and you may need to pry trans over to install. Mike
#5
Three Wheelin'
You'll need an M8 12 point triple bit, a 2 or 3 inch 1/4" extension, maybe some zip ties when removing the old ones, and a 1/4" ratchet.
If you have a helper with you, you can just have him pull the E-brake handle so the shaft doesn't spin. If you position it right, you can get 2 bolts at a time, then turn and repeat, turn and repeat and that's it.
Be very careful when engaging that bit! The boot is gonna want to not let it go FULLY in the bolt head, so you have to be forceful.
You can reuse the bolts, so long as they're not all spun and chewed up. Personally however, I never like reusing old fasteners, especially 28 year old ones. But that's just me. New bolts are less than $1 each, so it ain't gonna break the bank if you do.
If you have a helper with you, you can just have him pull the E-brake handle so the shaft doesn't spin. If you position it right, you can get 2 bolts at a time, then turn and repeat, turn and repeat and that's it.
Be very careful when engaging that bit! The boot is gonna want to not let it go FULLY in the bolt head, so you have to be forceful.
You can reuse the bolts, so long as they're not all spun and chewed up. Personally however, I never like reusing old fasteners, especially 28 year old ones. But that's just me. New bolts are less than $1 each, so it ain't gonna break the bank if you do.
#6
Rennlist Member
A few tips: use a long XZN bit, like a Stahlwille 3054 with its 90 mm. bit. It will let you engage more of the bolts without turning / locking down the wheel than a short socket because the CV joint boot won't interfere. (Hard to explain with words, but take my word for it. See Black51's post.)
Remember how you torque a five-lug wheel in a star pattern? Same idea: torque the CV bolts down going across not around: 12 o'clock, 6, 2, 8, 4, 10.
I would be careful or avoid altogether impact tools if you are leery of stripping / camming out the bolt heads.
Kevin
Catellus Engineering
Remember how you torque a five-lug wheel in a star pattern? Same idea: torque the CV bolts down going across not around: 12 o'clock, 6, 2, 8, 4, 10.
I would be careful or avoid altogether impact tools if you are leery of stripping / camming out the bolt heads.
Kevin
Catellus Engineering
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: If it's the wknd, I'm at a track...
Posts: 666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thx for all the additional suggestions. I'm certain I have the appropriate tools including the M8 triple square (cheesehead) bit. Don't have impact tools so have to do it all by hand. Hadn't thought about the torquing pattern, but that certainly makes sense andis easy enough to do.
Over on Pelican someone suggested using locking bolts (the Stage8 ones) but I don't think that is necessary. But it's probably not a bad idea to pick up new bolts.
Over on Pelican someone suggested using locking bolts (the Stage8 ones) but I don't think that is necessary. But it's probably not a bad idea to pick up new bolts.