Bent clutch fork
#18
I will build more rear chromoly linkages in a few weeks.
For the billet fork it was one-piece 4140 steel and took 2 days machine time by hand. Was not fun. Someone in S Carolina has that car. More material was added around the base curve of the forks and double material on the sides of the forks opposite the TOB.
For the billet fork it was one-piece 4140 steel and took 2 days machine time by hand. Was not fun. Someone in S Carolina has that car. More material was added around the base curve of the forks and double material on the sides of the forks opposite the TOB.
#19
Racer
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I pulled the clutch today and the fork is half cracked through.
Also I actually have a KEP stage 1, not stage 2.
My clutch disk is almost at the rivets so I'll change that at the same time .
Also I actually have a KEP stage 1, not stage 2.
My clutch disk is almost at the rivets so I'll change that at the same time .
#21
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I just reinstalled my clutch.
TRP sent me his NA clutch fork. Thank a lot for that!!!
I was very skeptical about the NA fork being used in the turbo. After looking at them side by side I am positive that using an NA fork is the way to go. It needs to be ground a bit to make it fit, but the advantage here is that I only ground where I needed to, and only around the tips. This leaves the break prone area with the maximum amount of material.
I went at it with a little die grinder and a file. I didn't want to heat the fork whatsoever. It fits with a bit of clearance.
Also of interest is that it seems the tips are hardened, only about 1/8 where they touch the TO bearing. I don't know this for sure, but they are harder to file than the rest of the tips.
I haven't driven the car yet as I'm still putting it all back together.
TRP sent me his NA clutch fork. Thank a lot for that!!!
I was very skeptical about the NA fork being used in the turbo. After looking at them side by side I am positive that using an NA fork is the way to go. It needs to be ground a bit to make it fit, but the advantage here is that I only ground where I needed to, and only around the tips. This leaves the break prone area with the maximum amount of material.
I went at it with a little die grinder and a file. I didn't want to heat the fork whatsoever. It fits with a bit of clearance.
Also of interest is that it seems the tips are hardened, only about 1/8 where they touch the TO bearing. I don't know this for sure, but they are harder to file than the rest of the tips.
I haven't driven the car yet as I'm still putting it all back together.
#22
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I also changed the clutch while I had everything off. I had a cup clutch in there and bought what I thought was another one. It looks like Sachs has changed the cup clutch. It fits so no biggie, I was just surprised. I hope it works as well.