ibkevin

I'm not quite sure where to start.. I'm guessing a tuner would have psi and gpm numbers for each of the FQS settings, or anyone.

I'm trying to guestimate how each of the settings will affect my CA smog retest.

Thanks!

kev951

http://www.lindseyracing.com/mm5/mer...e=DMEFQSSWITCH

ibkevin

No assistance?

My best guess would start with the pre and post Whichhunter flow numbers, its rough at best.

I'm thinking I'll do my retest at the 3% additional fuel setting.. if nothing else, I'll have a new set of numbers to work with to burn another $60.

Rogue_Ant

If you are running gasoline with 10% ethanol (E10), and an otherwise stock car, then you should be running on FQS position #1, which adds 3% fuel.
This is due to the 10% ethanol changing the stoichiometry of the fuel.

As a generality, adding fuel will raise HC, and help lower NOx.

ibkevin

Thanks Joshua, I was about to send you a PM. I passed with my current set up on position #0, I figured #1 was a safe move. Here are my numbers..

Would it help to have my last tests numbers?

Rogue_Ant

I'm not up to speed on your situation...
Are you saying that the picture is from your latest test on position #0?

If so, then you have some room to trade off HC for NO. I would test again at either +6% fuel, or +6% fuel & 3° retard. (FQS position 3 and 7 respectively)

Additionally, make sure your exhaust is HOT. When you get to the testing center, if you can touch the tailpipe then the exhaust isn't hot enough.

ibkevin

Correct.

Test numbers two years ago were - nothing has been changed on the car since the last test.
15mph - HC 50ppm, CO .16%, NO 685ppm
25mph - HC 40ppm, CO .07%, NO 224ppm

Tech told me the dyno is reading 50% horsepower in the 15mph range and 15% horsepower in the 25mph range.

The car goes in hot and stays running until the test.

Thats why I was asking if the 3% would be good enough or just jump to 6%.. If you think the 6% is reasonable I'll run with it.

Stock plugs, stock DME, clean air filt, 18" Pzero 285's on the rear..

Rogue_Ant

Yeah, the 15mph test is where most 951s have issues.
I would go right to +6% for the test. After the test, then I would stick to +3% if you are running E10 fuel.
How old is your O2 sensor?

Make sure your tires are not low on pressure... if anything I would run a little high on rears for the test.

ibkevin

Yep, rears are running about 58lbs for the test.

O2 was new Bosch two years ago for the last smog, I tested it Friday and dithers between .1 and .9v using the Clarks procedure.

New Magnaflow cat for the last test, pulled it within ~100hrs and reinstalled it for this test, aluminum taped the inlet under the wide band clamp to prevent contamination. No evidence of any upstream leaks.

I'll retest with the 6%.. I don't think I have to mess with timing just yet, I hate the idea of getting a new head over a smog test.

Rogue_Ant

???

ibkevin

Temps and pre detonation...

Jacket water and intake air sensors are only a few years old, both Porsche stock parts.

Rogue_Ant

Unless your cylinder head is in need of a rebuild or has a lot of carbon build-up, it isn't going to affect emissions.

ibkevin

Head rebuild done out in your nick of the woods about 10yrs ago, quality shop. Seafoamed about two years ago, w/o cat. I read up on foaming with the turbo, but at idle, I figured it was a safe move.

ibkevin

*UPDATE*

Todays numbers at +6% fuel, stock timing..

HC - 22 out of 86
CO - .02 out of .50
CO2 - 14.7
O2 - .1
NOX - 689 out of 697

Tech was cool, test was in manual mode.. he's on my side.

The 6% smoothed out idle and brought it up about 150 rpm and I noticed a new knocking sound.

kev951

try pure 100 unleaded( empty tank , put in 3 gallons, drive her hard, not so much boost, test again. or buy a new generic three way cat