Amsoil series 2000 20-50 for the summer and Amsoil high-performance 10-40 for the winter.

 

anyone use / have experience with Royal Purple? i work @ a shop and can get 5gal drums/pails of it in 20W50 (their race51 product) at a decent price, is it worth it / good quality? this is for a hard-driven street / part-time track, summer-only car.

 

Royal Purple is up there with Redline, AMSoil, as some of the best there is.

I see 2 people have tried 0w30 - I recently changed my oil, totally forgot different cars might use different weights (my others all use 10w30), so I put 10w30 dino oil into the 86 Turbo - as long as pressure doesn't drop below 2 bar or so, I should be ok, right? Or should I go ahead and change the oil to something thicker?

Sam

 

i'd change it, esp. w/ it being summer (that's awfully thin. one hot day, and bye-bye rod bearings). besides, you can never change your oil/filter TOO often

 

One hot day? It's been 115+ degrees for the past month!

Sam

 

lol ok, you have better luck than most, i'd say :P screw it, maybe i'm wrong and you're fine til the next change the way i see it is, oil/filters/changes are cheap, engines are not

 

I see oil pressure down to nearly 2 bar (perhaps 2.5bar is more like it?) with 20-50 on 80-95 degree days after a good long drive, with some boost thrown in there. Almost 87k miles on the car (and engine).

 

i have my STACK set to warn me at anything below 25PSI (ie, if it dips below the 2bar range) - my oil temps get to 180-190 easily even with the two setrab coolers (i think i'm loosing a good .5bar of pressure because of them, i'm thinking if i use 20w50 vs 15w50 the extra volume of oil plus the distance it has to travel will FAR overtax the oil pump, and any benefit of the slightly thicker oil will easily be outweighed by the additional pressure drop.

just ordered 8qt of redline sae50 (aka racing 15w50) and some redline p.s. fluid (gotta love getting stuff @ cost hehe)... gonna change the oil this coming week some time... gotta throw on the new bling:

 

With my 2.5 L Motor, the stock oil pressure gauge would fluctuate (drop 1-1.3 bar for a moment) when accelerating hard in 1st and 2nd. This with the oil pan baffled. Added Accusump and problem resolved. The 3.1 L pan has better baffling. With Accusump off, it may drop 1/3-1/2 bar for a moment. Bearings in the 2.5 were perfect, w/approx. 15k miles. I used to call Jon when oil temps reached 220, then 230. He told me to call him when it reached 260-270. That being said, when the motor was installed the oil cooler & water/oil heat exchanger were not plumbed in the parallel fashion Jon wanted (series). Oil pressure did not reach 5 bar+ as soon as it should. Jon advised correction. It was done that week. With the Accusump, oil cooler, heat exchanger, air/oil separator plumbing direction was paramount. My point is I was told and believe that temp is not the only (not even most common) engine killer under high loads. Oil pressure. The owner of the shop asked Jon how important the 1/2 bar~ or so really was. It went something along the lines of "with 140 h/p per cylinder, it's crucial". Yes, I watch my oil temps, but if I see a drop in pressure, I'll panic. I use Mobil 1 (15-50). Car is not tracked. I am open to better oils, not married to this stuff. Some experienced people told me to use Castrol (dino oil). I've used Mobil 1 in my Mazda tubo since new. Drive it harder (closer to its limits, regularly) than the 951. 388K w/o the head off. 110~ oil changes. Because of the 951's high boost (20 lbs. on high) frequency is 1k~.