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Balancing pistons. Can I grind away this ridge?

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Old 02-14-2014, 05:50 PM
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bebbetufs
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Default Balancing pistons. Can I grind away this ridge?

What purpose does this ridge serve? Does it do anything like scoop oil onto the pin or is it for balancing and can be safely removed to lighten the piston?
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:05 PM
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rlm328
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If you want to remove weight you may want to look at skirting the piston.
Old 02-14-2014, 07:09 PM
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bebbetufs
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I just need to remove a few grammes to balance the set. I need at most 2.5g gone from the heaviest piston/pin combo. I'm planning to use a Dremel tool.
Old 02-14-2014, 09:14 PM
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rlm328
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The usual practice is to take the weight off the rod.
Old 02-14-2014, 10:44 PM
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Dave W.
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If you have stock rods there's a flat section on top that can be ground down to remove weight.
Old 02-15-2014, 04:19 AM
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bebbetufs
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Thanks.
I thought the rods and the pistons were balanced separately? A few random hits from a google search:
I paid $175 to have an engine balanced about eight years ago. The pistons were put on a lathe and the metal machined out of the skirt area up high. The rods were done on each end and the crank was actually balanced on each journal.
This is done by weighing each piston on a sensitive digital scale to determine the lightest one in a set. The other pistons are then lightened to match that weight by milling or grinding metal off a non-stressed area such as the wrist pin boss. The degree of precision to which the pistons are balanced will vary from one engine builder to another, and depends to some extent on the application. But generally speaking pistons are balanced to within plus or minus 0.5 grams of one another.

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Old 02-15-2014, 10:05 AM
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Chris White
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I prefer to balance the parts separately. that way you can mix and match rods and pistons. that can come in handy if you have to replace anything later.
Lightening the whole skirt has some risk - you should not take any material out of the thrust areas.
The tab you are pointing to is a good place to start - but do not take any more material off once it flush.
Old 02-15-2014, 12:35 PM
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Thanks Chris.

Unfortunately I am in too much of a hurry Today I balanced the set by taking material out of the trust areas because that's what they did to my other set when I sent them away for balancing (Opel tuner). I did however cover as much area as possible to minimize loss in one area. After grinding I hand sanded and polished as best as I could by hand to hopefully reduce the amount of stress risers.

Here are some photos.

What do you think? Hopefully I won't have to buy yet another set of pistons.
Old 02-17-2014, 09:17 AM
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Chris White
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You will be fine - the pistons have a very deep skirt so the small amount of weakening at the very bottom will no be a problem.
Old 02-17-2014, 02:19 PM
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bebbetufs
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Thanks. I think I've confused "thrust area" with "pin boss".

I've removed most of the material from the surface of the piston pin bosses. 1mm at the most. I had to re-chamfer the oiling holes to restore the original chamfer, but some of the chamfer was still left.
Old 02-17-2014, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bebbetufs
Thanks. I think I've confused "thrust area" with "pin boss".

I've removed most of the material from the surface of the piston pin bosses. 1mm at the most. I had to re-chamfer the oiling holes to restore the original chamfer, but some of the chamfer was still left.
When the piston is traveling down the bore there is a side load on the piston due to the geometry of the crank / rod and that forces the pistons against the cylinder wall. There is no thrust load on the front and back sides of the pistons and more loads on the right and left.

if you look at the pistons you should see where the skirt is lower that the rest of the piston - those are the thrust areas.
Old 02-17-2014, 06:22 PM
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bebbetufs
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That makes sense. That is where I see the most wear. Thank you.



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