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DIY Fuel System Project

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Old 02-05-2014, 11:35 AM
  #16  
Pauerman
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Originally Posted by Big E
Great stuff, was literally about to go try and figure this out. So, where can you buy those Brennan fittings? I found their website, but a search using the part numbers didn't come up with anything.
Brennan Industries does not deal directly with the public, but they do business with pretty well any hydraulic shop that may have a good reputation in your given city / state. They have warehouses across the US, so you can either contact Brennan and ask them what businesses they deal with in your state, or just call around to the hydraulic shops yourself and see if they get parts from Brennan.

I can tell you that trying to describe these pieces to a "counter guy" at some of these hydraulic shops may come across like you're speaking chinese. The moment you mention metric, they may loose interest in your business pretty fast. So, having the specific part numbers will get you through any potential confusion!
Old 02-05-2014, 12:25 PM
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Thanks Vic. I already did the fuel lines (jumper line twice now!) but I will definitely remember this thread the next time I have to do a set!

Jim
Old 02-05-2014, 04:40 PM
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pole position
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Maybe you could also add a parts list for your remote fuel pressure gauge you used to offer.
Old 02-05-2014, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Pauerman
I can tell you that trying to describe these pieces to a "counter guy" at some of these hydraulic shops may come across like you're speaking chinese. The moment you mention metric, they may loose interest in your business pretty fast. So, having the specific part numbers will get you through any potential confusion!
+1, the guy thought I was nuts at my local hydro shop when I was looking for metric adapters to make a CIS fuel pressure gauge.
Old 02-05-2014, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by pole position
Maybe you could also add a parts list for your remote fuel pressure gauge you used to offer.
BAT sells a 12mm hose end fitting for the end of the rail - p/n FS-1204T. The fitting is meant to be used with -4 Teflon braided hose and cost is about $26 each.

You'll need a hydraulic shop to crimp a 1/4 NPT fitting to the hose and you'll need a female / female coupling to connect the fuel pressure "peanut" gauge to the coupling.
Old 02-06-2014, 01:45 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
Great post, thanks! Your fuel lines are still going strong and looking good in my engine bay. Where do you source the covered hose clamp for the FPR end? I've seen similar ones at Summit, but have never located it in black...
I have an extra one Tom, I can bring it over if you need it.
Old 02-06-2014, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
Great post, thanks! Your fuel lines are still going strong and looking good in my engine bay. Where do you source the covered hose clamp for the FPR end? I've seen similar ones at Summit, but have never located it in black...
That's what powder coaters are for
Old 02-06-2014, 02:03 AM
  #23  
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I didn't see the color comment, mine extra one is red. Nothing that your bead blaster, self etching primer, and black engine enamel won't cure. Don't think powder coating necessary, it is just a cover. I agree with Vic on the good clamps. That bad *** Scandinavian aircraft clamp works perfectly.
Old 02-06-2014, 03:58 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by URG8RB8
Don't think powder coating necessary, it is just a cover.
Hey ... When ya got it flaunt it
Old 02-06-2014, 04:21 AM
  #25  
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Very helpful information, thanks for sharing.
Old 03-30-2014, 02:30 AM
  #26  
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Amazing information! Thanks for posting!

Couple of NOOB questions:

Since the 2 hard lines are different sizes and the factory rubber lines are sized differently, doesn't it stand to reason that the end at the damper and FPR are different sizes? You show the lines as being 8mm for the return and 10mm for the feed. 8mm equates to a -5AN standard clamp connection at the FPR, and this is showing a -6AN works fine? I've not measured the nipple yet, but I'd guess 2mm difference is significant!

On the clamp end, do you treat the loose metal or plastic braiding any way before putting the clamp on? Tape, heat shrink, etc..?
Old 04-02-2014, 03:26 PM
  #27  
951kaos
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Here is a link to Eaton/Aeroquip literature (PDF) that has info on assembly of hoses starting on page 44; also it contains some useful info on how to properly run the hoses.
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/publ...pct_369349.pdf
I have installed hydraulic hoses on household plumbing to nuclear reactor components and have been trained by Aeroquip on hoses/fittings and proper installation; a few things to look for on installation are: the hoses and fittings do not touch adjoining lines and have a proper bracket to separate them and do not exceed the bend radius of the hose (hose bends should start 1 1/2 x the diameter of the hose past the end of the fitting); both those are noted in the literature.
Old 04-06-2014, 12:29 PM
  #28  
ibkevin
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I remember building my set, a bit of a pain but a hell of a lot more enjoyable than dealing with an engine fire.

I hate those guys at BAT, they damn near have the market cornered... argh.
Old 12-30-2014, 05:08 PM
  #29  
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In process of doing all the flex lines from tank forward...anyone make a kit for the early cars..or just pieces? guess the Brennen stuff may be a start..to adapt in the AN lines??
Old 06-15-2016, 02:50 AM
  #30  
schip43
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I got "confused" trying to figure out the fittings for the fuel damper?? But PN's and pictures work for me!
"BAT" pdf ... problem solved! Thanks!

http://www.batinc.net/files/ahosend.pdf


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