A few upgrades the race car
#16
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I think that our cowl induction will be far superior in quality and performance. Final sanding on it now, ready to make the mold. Brake decision on Monday, PFC's, GT3 or AP Racing. Search is on for ABS - Bosch M4 or Teves/BMW MK60. Bodywork will be finished by the end of next week.
#18
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
We picked up some PFC 6 pot fronts and 4 pot rears. Will hold off on the ABS until we test, don't want to change too much at one time. Clamping force on the new brakes is up 1500 psi. Brakes rotors were just ordered, new hats being made. New rubber expected to be 315 rear 295 front.
Bodywork is complete, waiting for images from our graphics guy.
We made molds from the fascia and the hood.
I also added some Ground Control camber castor plates.
Added some cool carbon fiber mirrors too.
Bodywork is complete, waiting for images from our graphics guy.
We made molds from the fascia and the hood.
I also added some Ground Control camber castor plates.
Added some cool carbon fiber mirrors too.
#20
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Here is my favorite low buck tip for widebody cars - glue some 'anti fatigue' floor mats to the underside of the fenders - that will keep the fiberglass from getting damaged from objects thrown off the sticky tires. They are cheap and can be replaced when they get too beat up.
#23
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryborough, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi disasterman, I'm in the process of converting my RHD car to an LS1.
Can you elaborate on the hood clearance issues you are experiencing?
I'm using the kit from Eric at TPC, and have the engine in, sitting on its mounts, with the crossmember spacers installed.
Unfortunately, it looks like the throttlebody will foul the hood by an inch or so.
I haven't had the bonnet on yet, but it looks like the TB is about an inch above the guard line.
Is this the issue you experienced?
Thanks mate,
Lee.
Can you elaborate on the hood clearance issues you are experiencing?
I'm using the kit from Eric at TPC, and have the engine in, sitting on its mounts, with the crossmember spacers installed.
Unfortunately, it looks like the throttlebody will foul the hood by an inch or so.
I haven't had the bonnet on yet, but it looks like the TB is about an inch above the guard line.
Is this the issue you experienced?
Thanks mate,
Lee.
#25
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Some "kits" like the R-Hybrid drop the cross support, I did not want to change the chassis dynamics so the engine protrudes about an inch above the stock hood line. The line that we developed for the new hood takes care of the clearance issue while providing better air intake.
All panels are quick removal. The rear flares are attached with only dzus fasteners. The front clip has two easily accessed bolts, 6 dzus fasteners and two ball pins. Front fenders are removed with 5 bolts but come off in 2-3 minutes.
Car is at wrap, waiting for pictures.
All panels are quick removal. The rear flares are attached with only dzus fasteners. The front clip has two easily accessed bolts, 6 dzus fasteners and two ball pins. Front fenders are removed with 5 bolts but come off in 2-3 minutes.
Car is at wrap, waiting for pictures.
#27
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Wheel time. Settled on Formula 43 wheels because they are a local wheel manufacturer who gave us a great price on some real racing wheels. They came out to measure the offset as well.
Final assembly then dyno tune in about 2 1/2 weeks.
Seat and belts were out of spec (5 years old) so we had to replace those too.
Racetech Halo seat
Schroth Pro Enduro harness
Final assembly then dyno tune in about 2 1/2 weeks.
Seat and belts were out of spec (5 years old) so we had to replace those too.
Racetech Halo seat
Schroth Pro Enduro harness