K27/8 dyno runs
07-17-2003, 06:47 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Originally posted by 87Porsche951
The stock intake manifold is unbalanced and will run lean in one area and rich in the other. There is really no way to fix that problem even if you get the intake manifold honed. Thats why I say get a new Hi Flow intake manifold. Some of you might not think that spending all that cash on a Hi FLow head is worth it but those extra air flow is not just for power increase. The motor will run better, idle smoother. You will se a increase in throttle response, the turbo will spool faster and wont have to work as hard to force air into the smalller ports. Plus you can actually tune the motor correctly and not have to worry about running one piston lean and the other rich while the others are fine. I disagree with the statement that it should be reserved for cars running 400+hp because all cars would benefit from a motor that would be able to be tuned correctly and not a motor you really cant tuned to its full potential because of an imbalance.
The stock intake manifold is unbalanced and will run lean in one area and rich in the other. There is really no way to fix that problem even if you get the intake manifold honed. Thats why I say get a new Hi Flow intake manifold. Some of you might not think that spending all that cash on a Hi FLow head is worth it but those extra air flow is not just for power increase. The motor will run better, idle smoother. You will se a increase in throttle response, the turbo will spool faster and wont have to work as hard to force air into the smalller ports. Plus you can actually tune the motor correctly and not have to worry about running one piston lean and the other rich while the others are fine. I disagree with the statement that it should be reserved for cars running 400+hp because all cars would benefit from a motor that would be able to be tuned correctly and not a motor you really cant tuned to its full potential because of an imbalance.
Your setup
Lindsey Intake: $1,300
Lindsey digital MAF: $1,000
B&B Header: $1,000
BB Exhaust: $1,000
Afterburner boost control: $295
EM Valve: $100
Total cost: $4,685
Best guess at your flywheel hp: 275 - 290 hp(not sure if you have and S or not)
Option #2
Vitesses Stage 1: $2,650 (include digital MAF and turbo)
Boost control: $300
Wastegate: $500
Exhaust: $1,000
Injectors: $400
Total cost: $4,850
Approximate flywheel hp: 390 hp
So for about the same money you can get almost 100 more hp. Don't get me wrong - all of the components that you have are great building blocks for building one hell of a motor. I just saying that if were up to me I would wait on things like the headers and intake manifolds and go with the upgraded turbo. Once I had the upgraded turbo with appropriate engine management (piggyback or standalone), then I would start to look at head work, intake manifold, larger intecoolers, etc.
And another thing is that alot of people say you cant run 400+ hp reliably and thats BS. A Porsche motor can make well over 400 reliable hp if the motor is actually built to support that much power. Alot of ricers just slap a huge turbo to up there 80bhp honda in power.
07-18-2003, 03:48 PM
#19
Instructor
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Skip Wolfe
Are the intake manifiold and head perfect from the factory - no. Can you get more horsepower and thottle response by modifying - absolutely. Should they be on the top of the list for the first mods in ones quest for power - no way. As Danno states in his post I really thing you have to order your upgrades in terms of horsepower/dollar spent.
Your setup
Lindsey Intake: $1,300
Lindsey digital MAF: $1,000
B&B Header: $1,000
BB Exhaust: $1,000
Afterburner boost control: $295
EM Valve: $100
Total cost: $4,685
Best guess at your flywheel hp: 275 - 290 hp(not sure if you have and S or not)
Option #2
Vitesses Stage 1: $2,650 (include digital MAF and turbo)
Boost control: $300
Wastegate: $500
Exhaust: $1,000
Injectors: $400
Total cost: $4,850
Approximate flywheel hp: 390 hp
So for about the same money you can get almost 100 more hp. Don't get me wrong - all of the components that you have are great building blocks for building one hell of a motor. I just saying that if were up to me I would wait on things like the headers and intake manifolds and go with the upgraded turbo. Once I had the upgraded turbo with appropriate engine management (piggyback or standalone), then I would start to look at head work, intake manifold, larger intecoolers, etc.
Totally agree with you on this one. Boost with the appropriate fuel management puts relatively little internal stress on ones engine. But if the fueling isn't right then it makes one heck of grenade.
Are the intake manifiold and head perfect from the factory - no. Can you get more horsepower and thottle response by modifying - absolutely. Should they be on the top of the list for the first mods in ones quest for power - no way. As Danno states in his post I really thing you have to order your upgrades in terms of horsepower/dollar spent.
Your setup
Lindsey Intake: $1,300
Lindsey digital MAF: $1,000
B&B Header: $1,000
BB Exhaust: $1,000
Afterburner boost control: $295
EM Valve: $100
Total cost: $4,685
Best guess at your flywheel hp: 275 - 290 hp(not sure if you have and S or not)
Option #2
Vitesses Stage 1: $2,650 (include digital MAF and turbo)
Boost control: $300
Wastegate: $500
Exhaust: $1,000
Injectors: $400
Total cost: $4,850
Approximate flywheel hp: 390 hp
So for about the same money you can get almost 100 more hp. Don't get me wrong - all of the components that you have are great building blocks for building one hell of a motor. I just saying that if were up to me I would wait on things like the headers and intake manifolds and go with the upgraded turbo. Once I had the upgraded turbo with appropriate engine management (piggyback or standalone), then I would start to look at head work, intake manifold, larger intecoolers, etc.
Totally agree with you on this one. Boost with the appropriate fuel management puts relatively little internal stress on ones engine. But if the fueling isn't right then it makes one heck of grenade.
I havent really spent a whole lot on mods my self.
Your flywheel power is a off too. My car has been estimated at 320-330bhp but dont know how accurate that really is untill i hit a dyno. The guy estimated the power by comparing the same car with other Porsche 944 Turbo's dyno results with there mods and my mods.
Once I hit 400rwhp. I am done modding the motor and will focus on other things.
07-18-2003, 08:13 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
87Porsche951, what exactly is a k26/7 turbo?
There's a k26/8, k26/6, k27/6, k27/8...and others but no k26/7 that I've ever heard of.
Why did the PO replace your pistons when he rebuilt it? Did he have the block bored and then use oversize pistons because of scoring? Otherwise there is no reason to change pistons. The Lindsey intake manifold, MAF and boost controller alone put you well over $2300.
There's a k26/8, k26/6, k27/6, k27/8...and others but no k26/7 that I've ever heard of.
Why did the PO replace your pistons when he rebuilt it? Did he have the block bored and then use oversize pistons because of scoring? Otherwise there is no reason to change pistons. The Lindsey intake manifold, MAF and boost controller alone put you well over $2300.
07-19-2003, 01:41 AM
#21
Racer
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: California
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yrs. back, I used a K27-8, with an A/T MAF, HKS adj. boost, extrudehoned manifold. I never realized anything close to 400 h/p. What I did find was that above 5000~ rpm, the boost dropped from 19-20lbs. to 15, or less, at 6900. Very strong torque, but not much after 5500 rpm.
