Couple of ? before doing vacuum lines
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Couple of ? before doing vacuum lines
Got the kit, ordering the venturi/idle stabilizer delete. Have a couple of ?'s about other bits and pieces.
The directions haven't called for it, but I'm going to get new gaskets for the intake manifold. Yes or no?
The banjo bolts that connect to the intake, should I replace those too? I'm confused looking at lindsey racing as to which parts (one hole, two holes...) would be needed, if those are needed.
Is there any special equipment (seals, lines) that I need to replace when I take out the fuel rail? I'm going to replace that, and the underhood lines soon too, but I know I have to take it off to do the lines under the manifold.
Thanks for the help. Tried to search the specific info, but my limited brain cells couldn't find it.
The directions haven't called for it, but I'm going to get new gaskets for the intake manifold. Yes or no?
The banjo bolts that connect to the intake, should I replace those too? I'm confused looking at lindsey racing as to which parts (one hole, two holes...) would be needed, if those are needed.
Is there any special equipment (seals, lines) that I need to replace when I take out the fuel rail? I'm going to replace that, and the underhood lines soon too, but I know I have to take it off to do the lines under the manifold.
Thanks for the help. Tried to search the specific info, but my limited brain cells couldn't find it.
#2
If you are going to remove the intake manifold, then get new intake manifold gaskets.
Banjo bolts that thread into the intake manifold shouldn't need to be replaced unless you break one. Be careful not to overtighten or they will break. Been there done that.
As for the fuel rail - depending on how old the injector seals are, it's possible you might rip one when removing the rail (or re-installing it). Probably a good idea to have a set of fresh injector seals on hand in case. Though personally I'd just recommend leaving the rail attached, and just unbolt the manifold and flip it over (with the rail still connected).
Banjo bolts that thread into the intake manifold shouldn't need to be replaced unless you break one. Be careful not to overtighten or they will break. Been there done that.
As for the fuel rail - depending on how old the injector seals are, it's possible you might rip one when removing the rail (or re-installing it). Probably a good idea to have a set of fresh injector seals on hand in case. Though personally I'd just recommend leaving the rail attached, and just unbolt the manifold and flip it over (with the rail still connected).
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
If you are going to remove the intake manifold, then get new intake manifold gaskets.
Banjo bolts that thread into the intake manifold shouldn't need to be replaced unless you break one. Be careful not to overtighten or they will break. Been there done that.
As for the fuel rail - depending on how old the injector seals are, it's possible you might rip one when removing the rail (or re-installing it). Probably a good idea to have a set of fresh injector seals on hand in case. Though personally I'd just recommend leaving the rail attached, and just unbolt the manifold and flip it over (with the rail still connected).
Banjo bolts that thread into the intake manifold shouldn't need to be replaced unless you break one. Be careful not to overtighten or they will break. Been there done that.
As for the fuel rail - depending on how old the injector seals are, it's possible you might rip one when removing the rail (or re-installing it). Probably a good idea to have a set of fresh injector seals on hand in case. Though personally I'd just recommend leaving the rail attached, and just unbolt the manifold and flip it over (with the rail still connected).
I'll leave the banjo's alone, and I was ordering manifold gaskets anyhow.
To foam my gaskets, or not to foam the gaskets... that is now my question.