74goldtarga

I am trying to remove my transmission. Sorry, but I have never removed a transmission before so this question is certainly a stupid one -

So far I have:
-Disconnected the gear selector shaft though it is still running through the black
sleeve in the transmission housing - moves freely
-Disconnected the reverse light wiring and speedo wiring
-Disconnected the half shafts
-Disconnected the coupler between the engine drive shaft and transmission shaft
and slid it entirely onto the transmission shaft
-Disconnected the transmission from the transmission mount/crossmember
-Disconnected the 4 bolts connecting the bell housing at the rear of the torque
tube to the front of the transmission case

The transmission is still hanging there connected to the torque tube housing but is not otherwise connected to the car - what is the best way to separate the transmission at this point? Are there pins on the torque tube housing that the transmission is resting on? It seems as if the torque tube housing and the trans case are still all of one piece - there is no gap or play between them at this point. Thanks for any advice.

Jeff N.

Did you push the shift linkage arm forward to get it past the housing? Not clear from your description....

chrenan

2 of the bell housing holes have small circular sleeves that the bolts run through. These sleeves help line up the bell housing and transmission on install. Your transmission is now suspended on these sleeves alone. I can't stress this enough, be carefull! Get a jack under the transmission and wiggle it front to back until you get seperation between the transmission and bellhousing. When there is enough seperation he sleeves will no longer be a factor and the transmission will drop.

74goldtarga

Thank you - I have a big jack and a huge/wide jackstand under the back of the transmssion because I figured it was suspended on not much (but obviously not sure). Can you push the gear selector shaft far enough forward to clear the housing and black tube it is in without first pulling the transmission back? I assumed that kind of slipped off as you went back and down with the transmission.

Paulyy

Did you disconnect the linkage from the gear stick? and remove the whole shifter (2 bolts on the Torque Tube)
I found it easier to remove the whole gear shifter from the TT (not sure if you had to but it was only 2 bolts)

when that's removed, the linkage will slide back and clear anything you want it to clear.

chrenan

Yes you can and you need to. Get back to the shift boot area in the car, grab the rod and twist it and drive it as far forward as you can. The twisting will help get more distance since the rod has a bend at the front and needs to find space to seat.

chrenan

Just to be clear, the black tube and shift rod need to be totally within the rear facing bellhousing and out of the transmission housing.

74goldtarga

Thank you. I couldn't get the bar advanced with the thick rubber in the transmission tunnel. Do I have to cut the rubber sound deadening or am I missing something. I tried to remove it but I thought it would tear out in pieces so I figured I had done what I was supposed to just advancing the bar forward a few inches ahead of the shift lever.

chrenan

It needs to be more than a few inches if I remember correctly. If you rotate the rod you will eventually be able to slide it forward so it goes under the foam to some degree. It is a pain and requires some elbow grease.

bordin34

You need to get it as far forward as possible. You could even try having somebody push it forward from the trans side as you try to find the proper space for it to sit.
Also that plastic sleeve is very annoying and gets in the way. I wound up cutting mine in half because it was constantly in the way when removing the trans. I did not do it the proper way.

944hal

I've never had a problem with the black sleeve. After disconnecting the shift rod from the transmission, it needs to be pushed forward far enough to be inside the bell. You might have to rearrange some of the insulation under the shifter but it should go forward far enough so the trans end is inside the bell.

951Saga

Please be very careful braking the trans free they have an awkward weight to them, heaviest towards the rear. Ideally you'd have a transmission jack which include a wide platform and tie-down straps too. Spraying a penetrant in the bolt holes and around the case may also help.

74goldtarga

Thanks for all the advice. I will try to put it all to use over the next few days. Hoping to have the AOR in by Sunday PM.

numbskull

There are pegs where the bolts came out that assist in aligning the trans to the torque tube housing. It may require prying, or if your trans jack has a tilt you can get a tie rod end splitter in there to pry them apart. Be careful of plastic speedo sensor, It likes to break when manuvering the trans jack.