Edit: helicoil question. Intake bolt stripped
#1
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Sorry dumb question but does it matter which side up. The felt feeling side or the the slicker side with reinz writing ?
Last edited by DrZ1; 09-23-2012 at 05:30 PM.
#6
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Well reason I pulled he intake was I had a leak at the 3rd runner. Now the last bolt closest to the firewall is stripped.
Do I have to pull the intake to helicoil or can I leave on?
Also any reccomenedations on which kit to get.
Thanks.
Do I have to pull the intake to helicoil or can I leave on?
Also any reccomenedations on which kit to get.
Thanks.
#7
Three Wheelin'
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Well reason I pulled he intake was I had a leak at the 3rd runner. Now the last bolt closest to the firewall is stripped.
Do I have to pull the intake to helicoil or can I leave on?
Do I have to pull the intake to helicoil or can I leave on?
Btw anyone have torque spec.
Also any reccomenedations on which kit to get.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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I'll second the timeserts. They're a bit more pricey, but provide a much stronger and reliable repair.
If you go with a heli-coil, try to stay away from stainless steel ones. Stainless and aluminum do not get along with each other.
If you go with a heli-coil, try to stay away from stainless steel ones. Stainless and aluminum do not get along with each other.
#10
Three Wheelin'
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This is why I keep a copy of the workshop manuals on my laptop and take it down to the garage to do work. Or for quick references this is a good link to keep bookmarked/copy and paste into a word document: http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/TORQUESPEC.html
#11
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Thanks will keep handy.
I need to be more prepared. Used to do most work with my mechanic. But don't have time to get to the shop right now.
I need to be more prepared. Used to do most work with my mechanic. But don't have time to get to the shop right now.
Last edited by DrZ1; 09-23-2012 at 08:03 PM.
#12
Three Wheelin'
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Oops I torqued the others to 30. I guess these gaskets are still good?
I will pull and use the timsert. Anyone have a link to the one I want.
Thanks.
Thanks.
The only other thing you need is a drill and a tap handle.
Here is a pretty good walkthrough of the entire process
Things to watch out for:
-Drill the hole straight. It's not too hard since you're just drilling out threads in an existing hole, but make sure you end up with a dead straight hole. Use a square or something as a visual guide if you're not used to doing this. If you do mess it up (don't) you may have a second shot to drill again and go with a thicker insert. But you want to avoid that route
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-Make sure you tap the hole deeply enough for the insert you're using - otherwise you'll end up with an insert that's stuck in there without being flush (they're not that hard to remove, but still)
I don't know about this for sure, but I think I would use a tiny bit of gasket sealer between the gasket and the rim of the timesert. If you countersink the hole perfectly you might be ok.
#14
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Super I may stop by fastnal and see if the can order.
Thanks for the detailed write up. Will order new gaskets.
Concerned about keeping drill straight. I guess I can go up incrementally in drill bits.
Thanks for the detailed write up. Will order new gaskets.
Concerned about keeping drill straight. I guess I can go up incrementally in drill bits.
#15
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BTW - another helpfull suggestion is to convert to studs. That way if you have to take your intake on and off several times (likek we all do!) you are not wearing out the aluminum threads in the head. I use stainless studs with the nice internal allen drives and nylock nuts.
and - of course - as soon as you take the intake off stuff the ports with paper towels!!!!
and - of course - as soon as you take the intake off stuff the ports with paper towels!!!!