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big red/black rotors?

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Old 08-21-2012, 03:42 PM
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TonyG
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Originally Posted by dizzyj
well, its for the car in my avatar. say 2600 lbs with me in it. call it 350hp, have not dynoed it, but im running a k27/8 at 14psi (23 when I go e85). I plan on getting into club racing, so I have been working on my threshold braking. Although truth be told, im sure compared to someone who actually knows what they are doing, im quite slow.

The main issue im trying to solve is that my brakes seem to have "pad knockback". i.e sometimes I get a soft pedal and catches very late. seems to do it after hard corners. I've bleed and re-bleed the brakes. Replacing the rotors/pads was the next step to diagnosing the cause. Any my rotors are getting pretty worn, so it lead to all these questions. If im going to buy new parts, I might as well know what im buying.
What are you using to bleed the brakes with? What's the wet boiling point of the fluid? Hydraulics are pretty simple. There is no ability to compress hydraulic fluid... only air. Are you getting any warping of the rotors? Do you have air ducted to the rotors?

TonyG
Old 08-21-2012, 05:45 PM
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333pg333
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Avoid the X drilled ones for your application. They will crack too easily. The best I've found so far are floating slotteds. Not the cheapest option but you could possibly get some solids and have slots made. That would be the cheaper option.
Old 08-21-2012, 05:55 PM
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I have a new set of cross drilled rotors (front and rear) for the turbo S "big black" brakes. I also have a new set of Pagid orange front/Performance Friction rear that works well for track/occasional street use. If interested, PM me.
Old 08-21-2012, 06:39 PM
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dizzyj
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Originally Posted by TonyG
What are you using to bleed the brakes with? What's the wet boiling point of the fluid? Hydraulics are pretty simple. There is no ability to compress hydraulic fluid... only air. Are you getting any warping of the rotors? Do you have air ducted to the rotors?

TonyG
I bleed via the brake pedal and a helper. I go back right (outside, inside), back left(outside, inside), front right (outside, inside), front left(outisde, insdie). The process for each valve is "3 pumps and hold brake...open valve, close valve, let off brake" repeat ~3 times per or till no air bubbles are seen.

the pedal never gets soft sitting still, its has to be moving. I dont notice any warping of the roters, or vibration while driving, but the are the rotors and pads that were on the car when I bought it.

I use motul 600 fluid.
Old 08-21-2012, 06:57 PM
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dizzyj
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
Avoid the X drilled ones for your application. They will crack too easily. The best I've found so far are floating slotteds. Not the cheapest option but you could possibly get some solids and have slots made. That would be the cheaper option.
what floating slotted do you use?
Old 08-21-2012, 07:23 PM
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TonyG
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Originally Posted by dizzyj
I bleed via the brake pedal and a helper. I go back right (outside, inside), back left(outside, inside), front right (outside, inside), front left(outisde, insdie). The process for each valve is "3 pumps and hold brake...open valve, close valve, let off brake" repeat ~3 times per or till no air bubbles are seen.

the pedal never gets soft sitting still, its has to be moving. I dont notice any warping of the roters, or vibration while driving, but the are the rotors and pads that were on the car when I bought it.

I use motul 600 fluid.
Get a power bleeder. It will be the best $79 you spend. You'd be surprised what additional air will come out using either a vacuum or power bleeder.

TonyG
Old 08-21-2012, 09:02 PM
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333pg333
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Originally Posted by dizzyj
what floating slotted do you use?
Got them from CEP. http://customengineeredperformance.com/index.html
Old 08-22-2012, 11:24 PM
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Tay-Tay
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Originally Posted by dizzyj
The main issue im trying to solve is that my brakes seem to have "pad knockback". i.e sometimes I get a soft pedal and catches very late. seems to do it after hard corners. I've bleed and re-bleed the brakes. Replacing the rotors/pads was the next step to diagnosing the cause. Any my rotors are getting pretty worn, so it lead to all these questions. If im going to buy new parts, I might as well know what im buying.
I think this will happen if your wheel bearings are loose or worn... As you corner the rotor will push the pads/pistons back in the bore and the next time you brake the pistons have to push the pads back to the rotor before you feel the car start to brake. Maybe someone else with more on this can chime in.

Taylor
Old 08-23-2012, 12:57 AM
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dizzyj
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Originally Posted by TonyG
Get a power bleeder. It will be the best $79 you spend. You'd be surprised what additional air will come out using either a vacuum or power bleeder.

TonyG
got one on order. been meaning too anyways. What about cycling the ABS, I've heard its possible to get air in those lines. I cant seem to find any info on how to cycle the the pump tho.



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