Ben951S

I think the Turbo guys know what this could be more so than the mixed group. Cross post from the main forum @ https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-position.html

No replies. I think you guys know more about clutch forks and breakages, and how to diagnose and fix! This really has me worried as I am trying to save for a house and haven't been too rough on the car. Help appreciate.

Here is a copy/paste from my first post to save the click.

"Hi Rennlist,

Short Version: Clutch will not depress. Not spongy, has maybe a half inch of pre-travel, then stops hard. Initially, pedal went to the floor, I lifted it up, and now it is locked hard. Releasing clutch fluid at the master allowed the pedal to go down. Documented clutch history (930 clutch, master, and slave) in 2008 (30-40k)

Long Version: Session two at the track, no problems. Only using 3rd and 4th gear, practicing heal toe and rev-matching (no pushing the clutch in and staging in third gear, then releasing, as that would over-rev the clutch). Finish my second session, I'm in the pits dropping off my instruction, and was coasting in with the clutch out, in neutral. Push the pedal into the floor to pick up second gear, and it goes to the floor, hard. I just coasted to his location, stopped the car, lifted up the pedal, and now it is locked HARD. (see short version). It now has no travel downward. Had a tech help me bleed some fluid from the master by the firewall, and the pedal went down. It also starts and idles and revs fine. It makes no bad noises when just idling. Shifts into all forward gears when off. Clutch and master and slave replaced and documented by PO (with shop receipt) in 2008, 30-40k miles ago.

I've heard that it could be the lining spun/fell off the clutch (previous owner abuse?), clutch fork broke, or throw out bearing failed.

Having a shop do some diagnosis (remove the slave and inspect the clutch fork, and anything else they can think of that is reasonable).

1) What should I ask the shop to do?
2) What do you think it is?

Fun Fact: Since I've had the car, periodically, the car would feel 'stuck' in second gear, meaning it would be more difficult than it should be to pull the shifter out of second gear. If you clutched back in, and out, it would come out smooth like it should. Clutch fork?

Thank you... [will keep searching but not finding a 'stuck up' pedal!]
"

Oof.

Tom M'Guinn

Sounds like something broke and got wedged in there -- maybe a clutch spring or throw out or fork-- hard to know without looking in the bellhousing. I think you're doing the right thing taking off the slave and taking a peek. It the hydraulics are good then just about everything else I can think of will require the bellhousing to come off. Sorry about that...

Ben951S

Thank you for the input Tom. I'll see what the shop says after they take a peak. Anything I should tell them to look for in particular? I take it if it's the throw out bearing or fork there is no way to cheat and it all equals a 'clutch job' in terms of effort...

Tom M'Guinn

With the slave loose/off they could at least confirm that the slave piston comes out when you press the pedal (i.e. that the problem is with the clutch itself and not the pedal/hydraulics). You just need to be careful not to over extend the slave piston. Assuming the hydraulics are good, I can't think of much that can be fixed with the bell housing attached to the motor, meaning the repair will indeed be a 'clutch job' in terms of effort. Maybe if the fork shaft slipped out it could be reistalled in place, maybe. Might have them check that that the shaft is still in place before cracking it all open...

Ben951S

Hmm. You mean the 'Clutch Lever Shaft - 95111613300 '? That was replaced in my documented clutch job from the PO. Heh, here's hoping. Thanks Tom.

Tom M'Guinn

Right, that. It is pinned in place with a bolt and jam nut screwed into the outside of the bell housing. It's not impossible that the bolt came loose and the shaft worked its way out.