jg951

This is my second post the first one I guess was deleted. My car has a aluminum radiator and is running at the 3/4 mark at a 85/90 degree day. The radiator was cool to the touch, the only test I did was run the heat and let the car get hot open the top vent and let it run for a little while to see any if there was any circulation problems., it passed the test. The other problem I have is that I dont have a aftermarket temp gauge, How difficult is to install one, can I keep the stock one? Or do I need to use the stock port to get the temp readings? What is the normal temp on this car 220F ?

schip43

Should be simple with one of these:

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Water-Hose-Adapters.aspx

I don't know the size but it looks they have everthing covered.

MooreBoost

are your fans turning on when it gets hot? does it do it when boosting? check your grounds

schip43

Check the rad cap for cracks. That one cost me a head gasket on my N/A.

Willard Bridgham 3

Bleed the air from the system.

Techno Duck

You can add an adapter for a water temp gauge that splices into the upper radiator hose.

Bleed the air out of the cooling system, if the problem persists make sure the thermostat is opening all the way... Feel the bottom hose, it should be hot.

odb812

Be patient when bleeding and make sure all the air is bled from the system. Some people have more luck with the front end of the car higher than the rear by parking on an incline, ramps, or jacking the front up.

Black51

Also, doesn't turning the heat **** to full help with bleeding the air out?

shortyboy

make sure the front of the car is lifted so that the bleeder screw is at its highest point when youre beeding the air. Opening the heater will help bleed all the air out. I went and bought a speed radiator bleeder from sears, works wonders.

jg951

I did some work today guys! The exhaust was totally jack up it looks like the car was used for rally, the loud noise I heard under the middle of the car was a cut pipe after the wastegate. The other side of the pipe that come down from the turbo was also bent but not cut or cracked. So I had the local welding shop do a 20 dollar putting the pipe together, I installed that and is a little quiet now. The thermostat snap ring is a major pain in the *** to remove, I bled the system completely but was unable to get my snap ring pliers in there. I re-filled the system and went home. Tomorrow I'll pick up a low temp thermostat and try again. I use a pressure tester to get the bubbles out and ran the heater too. Tomorrow also I will put the car high on the front and bleed it again. I also bought water wetter $10.95 once I get the thermostat out I will re-filled it will water wetter/distilled water, to see if this help.

Willard Bridgham 3

Water wetter won't do squat.

968 GUY

Thermostat temp. and cooling fan temp. switch should match.

jg951

I did not get to do "squat" on the car today Willard. But the we picked up the low temp thermostat. 968 guy so by putting a 70C thermostat in the water pump will make the fans act weird? The car is running only one fan because the radiator is an aluminum one and the shop who did the swap cut the fan in half and use only one of my fans, not enough room in there. So the fan starts to run at about normal operating temp or half way between the white lines and it does not stop from running a few minutes after I shot down the engine.

jg951

Hey, guys where can I find a mini snap ring pliers? I saw a picture in Pelican Part forum of a " the best snap ring pliers for 944 but no one seems to sells it anymore. I looked on snap on, craftsman, automotion.com and local automotive shops but no luck. Any technicks you guys want to share?

jg951

Yep, It was the thermostat. I'm very happy don't have to buy a water pump yet. Now I need a MAF