Turbo17

Everything is leaking on my late '86 951 - water, oil and PS fluid. I need to address this.

Let's start with water - it's the pump. I could use some advice. I've read the Clarks Garage procedure several times, but still have questions.

1) I've seen new pumps at about $330 and rebuilt at about $130. Does anyone have a recommendation? Have the rebuilts been holding up?
2) Would you recommend replacing the main thermostat and/or the turbo thermostat? They seem fine. What about hoses? They're looking kind of soft and swollen.
3) I believe there is an O-ring or sealing ring for each T-stat. Does that get replaced each time - regardless of whether I decide to replace the thermostats?
The pump is out, and I'm just about to make my parts order.

Front end oil leaks. I did my clutch and rear main seal about a year ago. That went fine. I did the timing and balance belts shortly thereafter, and I tried to fix oil leaks at the front of the engine then. I bought a front end seal kit and also replaced the oil pump gear. The front end kit had seals for the crank and both balance shafts, as well as the cam. However, the leak remained - perhaps a bit worse. I'll feel a bit like an idiot just redoing the seals without figuring what I did wrong, or why the leaks are still there.

The oil is all over the inside of the belt covers, so I know it's in there. Looking closely, I think the lower balance shaft is leaking the worst. I see oil around it at the seal that was installed. However, the back belt cover seems to show that the main crank seal has some oil dripping down from it. Looking closely at that seal, however, I can't be sure. There's lots of oil in there.

The belts are off now doing the waterpump. Any recommendations on how to find the leak and fix it? What brand seals are best? Any tips or tricks on what seal to buy, what to look for, etc? In other engines, I've cleaned off the oil, dusted with talcum, run the engine, etc. to find the leak, but I'm not sure if that's the best way to go about this.

The PS pump is leaking pretty annoyingly. Is it worth trying a rebuild kit?

The extra problem is the rotor bolt (3mm hex to hold the rotor on and prevent it spinning). It stripped this time. I've gotten it out, but it needs to be replaced. The Porsche drawings don't identify it. Does anyone have a source?

Thanks for any help or advice.

edit: BTW, when I did the front end the first time, I replaced the balance shaft seals, but not the sleeves. Should I buy the lower sleeve this time?

Crackership

1) Not sure... if you do a search on here, you'll find a few posts about this in the past... I remember the posts, just don't remember what they said
2) On the one hand, if the thermostats are good, why replace them... There's no guarantee that the new ones will work any better than the one's you're replacing. On the other hand, the main thermostat is an absolute PITA to replace with the water pump in the car, so I'd definitely replace it if it's even kinda suspect.
3) I don't remember if there is an o-ring off the top of my head, but, if there is - replace it.

As for finding the leak, you can pick up a cheap UV dye kit at Autozone. It's a bottle of dye that you put in the oil, a blacklight flashlight and some super-stylish yellow glasses. Put in the dye, run it for a while, put on the glasses and start looking around with the blacklight. Works like a charm.

If the crank seal is leaking again after replacing the seal, I'd check the sleeve on the front of the crankshaft. If it's grooved or worn, it'll never stop leaking until you replace it.

I've always used Victor Reinz seals... mostly because they're what's easily available.. never had any problems with them.

PS pump reseal is a cakewalk - just get the rennbay kit. It's really really easy. Get new crush washers for the banjos while you're at it (rennbay carries those too). It would suck to reseal the pump and have the crush washer start leaking.

I don't know where you're at, but here Ace Hardware carries a bolt that's the right size for the rotor, but a bit too long. So, you buy the bolt, and a nut for it (if you don't have one that will work). Compare the original bolt and the new one and mark the new one at the right length. Thread the nut onto the bolt well past the mark. Cut the bolt to the right length with whatever you have that works for cutting bolts. Then, back the nut off of the bolt.. you'll probably need to use a wrench.... but the nut will clean up the threads on the end of the bolt where you cut it.

Turbo17

Here's a question related to the rebuilt water pump issue: The price difference is $200 compared to the new pump. That's significant. However, the core charge is $100, and that's only returned if the core is good enough for a rebuild. How can I tell in advance if it can be rebuilt? It grinds when it rotates and leaks like a sieve. If I don't get the core charge returned, at only $100 off, I'd rather buy new.

Turbo17

I think you're referring to the oil pump sleeve, which I read would get a groove and always leak thereafter. I replaced that the first time. I'm not 100% certain if I've got a leak at the crank now, but the lower balance definitely is suspect. Does the sleeve there need replacing? I can't think of anything I did wrong the last time, except not replace the sleeve. It looked fine. There were two different size seals, but I was pretty careful and think I did that right.

Thanks for the UV tip. That should make it easier to spot where it's coming from.

I'll check a local Ace hardware for the rotor bolt.