Lightningmcnulty

Hey guys,

Hopefully this will get more action here

I need your help on this, when I was removing my head one stud (for the thermostat housing?!) would not come out.

I drilled it out and eventually freed the head, now I have the problem that the stud still won't come out, I have tried heat release fluid and enormous grips and still nothing, on top of this when I drilled I went off center a little and have gone into the block just a little, I think my only option may be to cut the last piece of stud off and drill a new hole but I know that will be a pita because of the soft aluminum around it so what other options are there?

Here are some photos to show the problem.

thanks

Kim

Techno Duck

Put the cylinder head back on so you can use the bolt hole as a makeshift jig. Drill the broken stud out and either helicoil or timesert the block to repair the thread.

May also want to try a reverse drill bit while doing this, you may get lucky and it will come out by itself.

Lightningmcnulty

I made this mess while trying to drill out the original bolt with the head in place so my fear is that it will just keep going on its new course?! i think I need to grind off the top remaining bolt but i'm not sure how to keet my drill straight while removing the leftovers inside.

for some weird reason the drill always wants to go through the soft aluminum rather than the hard steel!

thanks

Kim

Tom M'Guinn

Yes you need to grind it flat with the block, center punch it, then use the head as a drilling jig to ensure you drill straight as techno duck suggests (or make a jig separately). You'll probably need to over-drill and helicoil, but in that spot a helicoil (or timesert) will be more than strong enough.

kevincnc

I've had pretty good luck in situations like this by welding on another steel chunk or nut, and turning that. The heat from welding can help also. I hate screw extractors- too small and they break or strip, too big and they just expand the broken stud and make it tighter. Welding on something also lets you wiggle it loose in both directions and get some oil to penetrate until it is free enough to remove.

Lightningmcnulty

Ok guys I'm going to look to hire/buy a welder I think and go from there!

Ky944TurboNewbie

If you need to drill it out, I ended up hiring a pro and documented the process with lots of pics. Here is my thread.

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...pump-bolt.html

Van

I strongly recommend the welding process first - that usually works.

Tom M'Guinn

Re a welder, I have not had good luck with that approach for water port bolts like that. The bolts get so weak from corrosion it's like welding to bubble gum. You weld a nut on, and it would just twist off another little piece of the bolt. No harm trying it -- your bolt might be strong enough -- but before buying a welder just know it's no guarantee...

schip43

E1020, Extractor Set, 20 pcs.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....roup_ID=675450

Just ran into the same problem on my Daewoo (yeah I know!) Drill went off cenjter and I thought the head needed to be pulled. The sho[ got it out without pulling the head, This is one of the tools he used. It has drill guides (that they seem to sell by themself.)

The guide goes over the hole and keeps the drill centered. I'd try it with a guide before touching it with a drill again!

jimbo1111

I would weld a six sided nut over the stud and heat the block with a torch to expand it while unscrewing the nut. The torch does it every time.

kev951

if your pulling the head to have it rebuilt, just have the machine shop edm it out. problem solved

schip43

I see the piston in the picture is'nt that on the block?

Lightningmcnulty

Sure is, thats why I'm tackling it myself.

I think i'm going to buy an inexpensive wire flux welder, never used one of these so if its a bad move let me know.

I will try that then if not I will try a timesert, $60.

It will cost sub $200 to try both of these methods which doesn't seem like much compared to the alternatives.

I'm guessing the thread is M8, right?

Van

When it comes to welders, you get what you pay for. It's worth it to get a good brand, and definitely get gas shielding (MIG).

I think it will be cheaper, and more likely to work, to have the car towed to an experienced welder.