What happens when you unplug the knock counter?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
What happens when you unplug the knock counter?
No idea where mine got to but the plug for it is vacant. I'm trying to get to the bottom of my 11-12.5a/f idle @1200rpm ordeal (exhaust smoke included) with crappy throttle response. My vacuum is at 18" but I'm wanting to see if the knock counter has anything to do with it before I start tearing into the tps and o2 sensor
#2
Rennlist Member
Not sure what you are asking, but the knock counter (a Curtis counter on the klr knock pin) isn't going to cause those issues and probably won't help diagnose it. How is fuel metered on your car -- stock AFM or MAF? I would start by checking that, the tps and O2 sensor and the dme temp sensor. They're all relatively ey to check with a multimeter. Clarks-garage has detailed test procedures.
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
I'm using the a-tune. Car ran fine not long ago so I don't think the chip has anything to do with it.
Is it common for these cars to have a super rich mixture and idle high during the warm-up phase?
Is it common for these cars to have a super rich mixture and idle high during the warm-up phase?
#4
the knock sensor on the block will retard timing 6 degrees if disconnected
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
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#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Nope. At the first bar on the temp gauge it hangs around mid to low 13s and the idle never comes down from 1200.
Adjusting the idle is easy enough but I don't want to bandaid one problem to make it harder to find the real problem.
Adjusting the idle is easy enough but I don't want to bandaid one problem to make it harder to find the real problem.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Swapped out the o2 sensor for a good spare I had, no changes even when I unplug the thing entirely
Edit--
Cleaned out an oily tps and stuck it back in. Idle went down about 100rpm, response improved and the afrs started to rise a little... Then wouldn't stop. I shut it down after it hit 16.0 and began to buck a little, typical. At least I'm getting SOMEWHERE I guess.
I tested resistance with the plate closed and it was 500 or so ohms and would give a fairly steady rise up to 3800, seems like the idle is too high and wot is too low? Think that replacing the tps might finish the job? I'd really rather not start throwing money at parts and hoping for the best.
Edit--
Cleaned out an oily tps and stuck it back in. Idle went down about 100rpm, response improved and the afrs started to rise a little... Then wouldn't stop. I shut it down after it hit 16.0 and began to buck a little, typical. At least I'm getting SOMEWHERE I guess.
I tested resistance with the plate closed and it was 500 or so ohms and would give a fairly steady rise up to 3800, seems like the idle is too high and wot is too low? Think that replacing the tps might finish the job? I'd really rather not start throwing money at parts and hoping for the best.
Last edited by Reimu; 07-10-2012 at 07:34 AM.
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
So 16 is alright for idle? I unplugged the idle controller and turned the rpm down to the proper levels. I think the tps and icv were both messed up.
afrs seem alright when I'm on throttle though, so would letting it sit at 15-17 alright?
afrs seem alright when I'm on throttle though, so would letting it sit at 15-17 alright?