Fuel pump wiring help. please.
#1
Fuel pump wiring help. please.
Is the factory fuel pump wiring on the ENGINE Harness or the BODY harness? Just installed EMS on my car, wondering if i need to do a seperate fuel pump relay or will the stocky still function!? Thanks gents.
#2
No idea what EMS is.
The fuel pump hot wire comes off of the central electric box and goes down the drivers side (under the door molding), then up over the rear wheel under the carpet and then across the car to the passenger side directly behind the rear seat and then into the metal of the rear deck through a rubber plug. The ground wire for the pump come from a grounding node near the spare tire.
I ran a sister lead with the original wire and another larger gauge ground wire to the pump to reduce the voltage drop at the pump. Measure the voltage at the pump with the engine running. If the battery voltage is at 14V (like it should be) and the pump is 12V or less, you need to do something.
The fuel pump hot wire comes off of the central electric box and goes down the drivers side (under the door molding), then up over the rear wheel under the carpet and then across the car to the passenger side directly behind the rear seat and then into the metal of the rear deck through a rubber plug. The ground wire for the pump come from a grounding node near the spare tire.
I ran a sister lead with the original wire and another larger gauge ground wire to the pump to reduce the voltage drop at the pump. Measure the voltage at the pump with the engine running. If the battery voltage is at 14V (like it should be) and the pump is 12V or less, you need to do something.
#3
Stand alone engine management system (EMS). so my factory DME and engine harness is removed. wasnt getting fuel, however, i bench tested my pump and it is not pumping. So I ordered a new pump and we will see what happens. If i still have nothing once the new pump is in, I am going to simply run my own relay.
Thanks Brian!
Thanks Brian!
#5
I pulled the fuse box straight up after cutting off a wire tie of two that keep the wire bundles coiled up. The trick is to pull it straight up a couple of inches at a time. There is a bunch of wire coiled up under the box, it just doesn't want to move after 25+ years of being coiled.
I found the wire coming from the fuel pump fuse and taped into it a couple of inches from the bottom of the fuse box. It wasn't that hard, just had to be careful with the soldering iron.
I found the wire coming from the fuel pump fuse and taped into it a couple of inches from the bottom of the fuse box. It wasn't that hard, just had to be careful with the soldering iron.
#6
Rennlist Member
I pulled the fuse box straight up after cutting off a wire tie of two that keep the wire bundles coiled up. The trick is to pull it straight up a couple of inches at a time. There is a bunch of wire coiled up under the box, it just doesn't want to move after 25+ years of being coiled.
I found the wire coming from the fuel pump fuse and taped into it a couple of inches from the bottom of the fuse box. It wasn't that hard, just had to be careful with the soldering iron.
I found the wire coming from the fuel pump fuse and taped into it a couple of inches from the bottom of the fuse box. It wasn't that hard, just had to be careful with the soldering iron.
#7
That is a good plan, you can also use a high side driver if you want to go solid state. The wire may fell like they are brittle, but what I found is that they have a lot of memory from being coiled for so many years. The ones I have looked at didn't show any signs of cracked insulation since they were not exposed to the high heat like the engine harness. They just didn't want to move so I just took my time and did small pulls until I had the room I wanted. You do have to pull hard to get them to move up.