Player0

Hi guys,

I'm trying to pull the turbo on my 86 951 to address some oil leaking issues. I have the top three bolts removed and that went fairly easy. The forth 15mm bolt is the one that has the nut welded to the flange. I have it soaking in some PB blaster now but I've been trying to reach it all day from under the car to no avail.

First off, the O2 sensor is slightly in the way. Of course it's completely frozen so it's soaking in PB as well.

Second, there a big oil line from the pan going up to the block which makes it hard to work in the area. Is it worth undoing this line to get it out of the way? I haven't seen anyone recommending it.

The hardest part though is that the bolt is so far up and and angled slightly away from me. Even when i'm lucky enough to get a tool on it, it seems impossible that I'll have enough room to put the torque I need.

I've been searching all day for the answer but everyone seems to have slightly different models. Am I missing an important trick here? Is the best tool for this a socket? If I had an extra long 15mm flexible wrench it might work.

Oddly enough, it looks like i have plenty of clearance from the top to get the nut that was welded. If they had welded the otherside, I don't think I'd have these issues. It looks impossible to get the other side from the top though.

Any help greatly appreciated

gruhsy

1/4 inch drive 15mm universal socket and extension. Snap on makes them.....the universal type where its a one piece 15mm universal. You might be able to find another manufacturer but I just went with Snap-on.

Player0

This guy?

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....roup_ID=674840

Looks pretty bad ***

lart951

I always pull the bolt with the welded nut first, if you do it at last you build stress on it make it harder to get out

Player0

Yeah, good idea. I'll thread some bolts back in. I haven't even tried turning it yet.

While I'm here, the turbo was replaced 10-12 years ago but the studs and nuts on the exhaust pipes are pretty rusted. New exhaust nuts look to be about $8 each and that doesn't even count the studs yet. None of the nuts are really stripped or broken, just rusty. Is it worth replacing them anyway, or should I just clean up the threads and reuse?

951Saga

I believe these, Metric Locking Flex Ratcheting Wrench Set, worked for me and they are useful in many other situations too.

Set on eBay.

Player0

I have the craftsman ratcheting wrenches, got them two weeks ago. They've really been worth it so far. They're short though and my arm is pretty thick so I was having a real hard time getting it to move back and forth. I'm not sure the ratcheting part actually fit on this bolt, but I can't remember.

951Saga

New Exhaust Hardware... Turbo Exhaust Hardware Kit
Throw the old bits in the recycle box.

Sounds like you have to make room to move. Get the O2 sensor out first, or if it won’t budge disconnect from the harness and remove the exhaust cat pipe.

I will also hook a standard box-end wrench onto the open end of the ratcheting wrench for additional length/ torque.

951Saga

I could have used these, Metric Wrench Socket Set, along with the wrench, also some of my most used tools.

F18Rep

Flex handle 3/8 ratchet, and paragon has the nuts for $4. Another popular option is the copper coated nuts, they are cheap and have a smaller 12mm head (kind of a 911 thing). I've used them a lot but I'm not sure I like them for studs as they tend to pull the stud out.
Bruce
PS... I'm a snap-on fan but the Chinese stuff is getting better.

Player0

Yeah, I've seen the copper nuts and they are a lot cheaper. I have to admit, I'm wary of that. First off, won't copper and steel cause more corrosion since they are dissimilar metal? Secondly, won't copper nuts strip more easily when I go to remove them? Are these copper coated or pure copper?

I don't mind giving things a shot, but I never want to have to dremel these things off either

gruhsy

Yep thats the one. I switched to copper as well.

some other good ideas from people also

Player0

By the way, I'm removing the turbo so that I can get to the AOS and seal some oil leaks. I retorqued the cam tower cover and have replaced the cork rear cam housing seal which I think was leaking pretty bad as well. Also the dip stick tube seal was gone.

Are there any other common oil leak areas I can reseal while I'm in here? Or any other maintenance I can do while the turbo is off?

I did the vacuum lines/ICV last year. Doing the coolant lines now too. Just want to chase down any 27 year old seal I can find and replace it.

eric951turbo

The bolt on mine was completely stripped out after trying and trying for a week. I then purchase a kit with some 9'' metal blades to use with my reciprocating saw. Took 3 blades, but I was able to cut it right off without damaging anything.

eric951turbo

afterwards, don't forget to send your x-pipe to LR to make it a two piece : )