installed mtune
#16
The slow idle retrieve is a non-issue under driving conditions for a non LWF car like mine...
The best part is having more boost than your car can handle.....a very good problem to have....
Just ordered an eBoost2...I'll wait for Paulyy to figure out how to map it by gear and let us know....
The best part is having more boost than your car can handle.....a very good problem to have....
Just ordered an eBoost2...I'll wait for Paulyy to figure out how to map it by gear and let us know....
#17
silly question here. I reset my idle this morning. With the icv jumpered I got the idle down to ~850 or so. seemed to idle pretty good. So then I assume I turn the car off, and remove the jumper? after doing that the idle was a bit higher, more like 950 surging to 1k. Still not a big deal, especially for a track car. I wont be at idle much.
What I do want to verify is what my AF ratios should be. I'm at near 16 at idle (new wbo2 sensor) running 93 octane. Just revving in the garage to ~3k they come down to ~14.7. I have not gotten the car under boost (needs to be at the track), but what should I shoot for? I'm thinking 13's while boost is building and 12's at wot?
What I do want to verify is what my AF ratios should be. I'm at near 16 at idle (new wbo2 sensor) running 93 octane. Just revving in the garage to ~3k they come down to ~14.7. I have not gotten the car under boost (needs to be at the track), but what should I shoot for? I'm thinking 13's while boost is building and 12's at wot?
#19
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From: Denver
Dizzyj, have you checked for vacuum leaks?
The leanness and slight surging (50rpm is pretty minor) suggest a few things to check: TPS, and vacuum leaks primarily. Also, what is the condition of your NBO2?
The leanness and slight surging (50rpm is pretty minor) suggest a few things to check: TPS, and vacuum leaks primarily. Also, what is the condition of your NBO2?
#20
Josh, so is the m-tune designed to run 12:5 a/f ratio at maximum boost?
#21
Hey Joshua,
I'm pretty good as far as vacuum leaks go. Part of my rebuild was to replace all the vac lines and track down several leaks. This lead to a new intercooler and a new icv. My gauge reads 18inhg at idle, which I though was pretty reasonable. I can hook up my compressor again and do another round of checks.
TPS clicks right when you touch it. have not messed with that at all.
I dont have a nbo2 . And my wideband 02 sits where the narrowband 02 goes (downpipe). I looked at moving it, but I was going to have to remove my entire cross pipe again, and from what I read the issue with the location is longevity of the sensor. I figured again, for a track car, ill get a new sensor in a few years.
When cold the wb reads a little rich, then leans up as the car comes up to temp.
again, thanks for all your help. Service with mtune has been great!
#22
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From: Denver
Lart, it depends on boost pressure...
The software uses boost pressure as one of the target AFR axis.
So, at 17psi, it will target a richer AFR than stock boost of 11psi.
Dizzyj, your WBO2 is in the factory O2 spot in the crossover? If so, it won't live very long there. WBO2 sensors don't like that much heat and pressure...
Also, did we turn off the closed-loop for your Tune (I don't remember off hand)?
The software uses boost pressure as one of the target AFR axis.
So, at 17psi, it will target a richer AFR than stock boost of 11psi.
Dizzyj, your WBO2 is in the factory O2 spot in the crossover? If so, it won't live very long there. WBO2 sensors don't like that much heat and pressure...
Also, did we turn off the closed-loop for your Tune (I don't remember off hand)?
#23
I dont have a nbo2 . And my wideband 02 sits where the narrowband 02 goes (downpipe). I looked at moving it, but I was going to have to remove my entire cross pipe again, and from what I read the issue with the location is longevity of the sensor. I figured again, for a track car, ill get a new sensor in a few years.
When cold the wb reads a little rich, then leans up as the car comes up to temp.
again, thanks for all your help. Service with mtune has been great!
When cold the wb reads a little rich, then leans up as the car comes up to temp.
again, thanks for all your help. Service with mtune has been great!
#24
I was planning on starting with my mbc off, so spring pressure on my LR duel port *should* be 9 I think. Then gradually up it to 14 or so on pump gas. I figure anything below 14 should be fairly safe at 9 right?
#25
Lart, it depends on boost pressure...
The software uses boost pressure as one of the target AFR axis.
So, at 17psi, it will target a richer AFR than stock boost of 11psi.
Dizzyj, your WBO2 is in the factory O2 spot in the crossover? If so, it won't live very long there. WBO2 sensors don't like that much heat and pressure...
Also, did we turn off the closed-loop for your Tune (I don't remember off hand)?
The software uses boost pressure as one of the target AFR axis.
So, at 17psi, it will target a richer AFR than stock boost of 11psi.
Dizzyj, your WBO2 is in the factory O2 spot in the crossover? If so, it won't live very long there. WBO2 sensors don't like that much heat and pressure...
Also, did we turn off the closed-loop for your Tune (I don't remember off hand)?
#27
Lart, it depends on boost pressure...
The software uses boost pressure as one of the target AFR axis.
So, at 17psi, it will target a richer AFR than stock boost of 11psi.
Dizzyj, your WBO2 is in the factory O2 spot in the crossover? If so, it won't live very long there. WBO2 sensors don't like that much heat and pressure...
Also, did we turn off the closed-loop for your Tune (I don't remember off hand)?
The software uses boost pressure as one of the target AFR axis.
So, at 17psi, it will target a richer AFR than stock boost of 11psi.
Dizzyj, your WBO2 is in the factory O2 spot in the crossover? If so, it won't live very long there. WBO2 sensors don't like that much heat and pressure...
Also, did we turn off the closed-loop for your Tune (I don't remember off hand)?
#28
#30
Yep, the slowing engine decel at ~2000rpm is right when the DME turns back on the injectors. The new software it should have a slight hold there and then decel slowly back to idle (850rpm in the latest software).
Some engines (such as mine), have a lightened flywheel/clutch/PP and have more of an issue with drop-throttle stalling. So I added in some 'help', to prevent that.
Earlier software, we bumped the idle speed up, so that it had more hp/tq to catch and prevent drop-throttle stalling. But many users wanted a more normal idle speed. Fine, so in this case we need to be a bit more aggressive in slowing the engine decel rate before it gets to idle.
It really shouldn't be very noticeable when driving. And, in-fact, nearly every new car does something similar. If it is a big deal, I can reduce the affect, and perhaps I will regardless for the update.
Some engines (such as mine), have a lightened flywheel/clutch/PP and have more of an issue with drop-throttle stalling. So I added in some 'help', to prevent that.
Earlier software, we bumped the idle speed up, so that it had more hp/tq to catch and prevent drop-throttle stalling. But many users wanted a more normal idle speed. Fine, so in this case we need to be a bit more aggressive in slowing the engine decel rate before it gets to idle.
It really shouldn't be very noticeable when driving. And, in-fact, nearly every new car does something similar. If it is a big deal, I can reduce the affect, and perhaps I will regardless for the update.