White_951

The slow idle retrieve is a non-issue under driving conditions for a non LWF car like mine...

The best part is having more boost than your car can handle.....a very good problem to have....

Just ordered an eBoost2...I'll wait for Paulyy to figure out how to map it by gear and let us know....

dizzyj

silly question here. I reset my idle this morning. With the icv jumpered I got the idle down to ~850 or so. seemed to idle pretty good. So then I assume I turn the car off, and remove the jumper? after doing that the idle was a bit higher, more like 950 surging to 1k. Still not a big deal, especially for a track car. I wont be at idle much.

What I do want to verify is what my AF ratios should be. I'm at near 16 at idle (new wbo2 sensor) running 93 octane. Just revving in the garage to ~3k they come down to ~14.7. I have not gotten the car under boost (needs to be at the track), but what should I shoot for? I'm thinking 13's while boost is building and 12's at wot?

White_951

I was at a solid 12.5 @ WOT when I blew the charge pipe off my throttle body....

Rogue_Ant

Dizzyj, have you checked for vacuum leaks?

The leanness and slight surging (50rpm is pretty minor) suggest a few things to check: TPS, and vacuum leaks primarily. Also, what is the condition of your NBO2?

lart951

Josh, so is the m-tune designed to run 12:5 a/f ratio at maximum boost?

dizzyj

Hey Joshua,

I'm pretty good as far as vacuum leaks go. Part of my rebuild was to replace all the vac lines and track down several leaks. This lead to a new intercooler and a new icv. My gauge reads 18inhg at idle, which I though was pretty reasonable. I can hook up my compressor again and do another round of checks.

TPS clicks right when you touch it. have not messed with that at all.

I dont have a nbo2 . And my wideband 02 sits where the narrowband 02 goes (downpipe). I looked at moving it, but I was going to have to remove my entire cross pipe again, and from what I read the issue with the location is longevity of the sensor. I figured again, for a track car, ill get a new sensor in a few years.

When cold the wb reads a little rich, then leans up as the car comes up to temp.

again, thanks for all your help. Service with mtune has been great!

Rogue_Ant

Lart, it depends on boost pressure...
The software uses boost pressure as one of the target AFR axis.
So, at 17psi, it will target a richer AFR than stock boost of 11psi.


Dizzyj, your WBO2 is in the factory O2 spot in the crossover? If so, it won't live very long there. WBO2 sensors don't like that much heat and pressure...
Also, did we turn off the closed-loop for your Tune (I don't remember off hand)?

User 52121

Based on some things I've read here, you might want to consider moving your WBO2. As I've come to understand. WBO2's aren't designed to handle the same amount of heat as the NB. You might be cooking your sensor with it so close to the turbo.

dizzyj

I was planning on starting with my mbc off, so spring pressure on my LR duel port *should* be 9 I think. Then gradually up it to 14 or so on pump gas. I figure anything below 14 should be fairly safe at 9 right?

lart951

so the software will adjust the a/f ratio as the boost increases, so at let's say @18psi what will be the target ratio?

dizzyj

lart is trying to judge how fast 951's are going to come into his market

dizzyj

I mentioned it when ordering, but that was a while ago, so I dont remember. I thought that really only affected things when cold tho.

lart951

lol, what I am trying to dp is justify changing the maf for my son's car.

dillon410021

I know my autothority maf and chip ran all the way pegged rich at 16 psi!

CyCloNe!

This explains a lot of what I was experiencing... I was acustom to the first chipset and then when I got my new tune recently I was getting that lol atleast I now know its suppose to do that. I thought I was having issues lol. It makes sense go going from like 36lbs to 80lb injectors I imagine it would need that time to dial back.