Wastegate / boost issues??
#1
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Wastegate / boost issues??
So my builder has been working feverishly trying to get my car ready to get to the track this week. As some of you may know we had the trigger issues and the Clewett kit has solved that….but you didn’t think it would be all clear sailing did you…? lol…nor should I have…
So this is an Iphone screenshot of one of the charts from last night plus the last chart from 2010. Can't even see the boost levels but from what the builder said, he saw 301whp at 16psi. So I assume the 2 pulls shown here are at 12 and 14psi. From what I understand it was all looking good and they were getting ready to up the ante. Then out of the blue, they started to get some strange boost spikes/drops. Unfortunately I don’t have any of these charts which is a bit annoying…but they were at the dyno until after 1.30am last night so I can’t be too pushy.
The boost solenoid would only reach 86%. They tested this, got under the car to check all lines, changed the solenoid and still had the same symptoms. A lot of heat soak was happening due to very little or no air getting under the car (splitter is on) and Paul (builder) feels that this could have had a contributing factor. He stripped the LRdp w/g off today and tested everything. Couldn’t find an obvious fault. There was quite a bit of carbon build-up inside, which we’ve seen before that (hopefully) could have contributed to the workings of the internals. The diaphragm while a bit thin in parts and maybe a tiny pinhole, if anything should have allowed more rather than less boost. It held well enough under pressure tests today. The dyno tuner just wants us to get a new w/gate but we don’t have time. I’m hoping a combination of cleaning it out, shimming it by 9mm and much more cool air flow through at the track will allow us to at least do our shakedown on Friday. The tuner wants it back again before Friday…ahh the joys of motorsports.
Speaking with the builder again this afternoon, when I mentioned that there seemed to be a power ceiling in the upper rpms that we’d also observed be in the last chart from 2010, he said that they hadn’t wound any timing into it as he thought he heard a bit of knock even at 16psi. What it may have turned out to be was what appears to be some factory metal piece that Paul, the builder, said he spotted today. He said it was on the intake and likely to be vibrating and presenting a ‘knocking’ sound at various rpms. I’m not quite sure which part he’s talking about but the tuner had his headphones connected to the intake which they say gives the clearest knock sound. So apparently he only had low 20’s in the ign where with 8:1 c/r and E85 he could have it in the high 20’s / low 30’s adv in some areas. So we’re putting it back together and sending it back to the dyno yet again tomorrow and with any luck we might see some improvements. We may even try the old MBC just for curiosities sake. We’ve never had a lot of luck with EBC / solenoids.
So any guesses why it went from looking really nice to suddenly showing strange irregularities and not passing 16psi? Could heat soak have had something to do with it? Carbon buildup inside the w/g? Spring not perfectly sitting vertically? Spring fatigue..unlikely to suddenly manifest itself.
Any guesses or answers?
So this is an Iphone screenshot of one of the charts from last night plus the last chart from 2010. Can't even see the boost levels but from what the builder said, he saw 301whp at 16psi. So I assume the 2 pulls shown here are at 12 and 14psi. From what I understand it was all looking good and they were getting ready to up the ante. Then out of the blue, they started to get some strange boost spikes/drops. Unfortunately I don’t have any of these charts which is a bit annoying…but they were at the dyno until after 1.30am last night so I can’t be too pushy.
The boost solenoid would only reach 86%. They tested this, got under the car to check all lines, changed the solenoid and still had the same symptoms. A lot of heat soak was happening due to very little or no air getting under the car (splitter is on) and Paul (builder) feels that this could have had a contributing factor. He stripped the LRdp w/g off today and tested everything. Couldn’t find an obvious fault. There was quite a bit of carbon build-up inside, which we’ve seen before that (hopefully) could have contributed to the workings of the internals. The diaphragm while a bit thin in parts and maybe a tiny pinhole, if anything should have allowed more rather than less boost. It held well enough under pressure tests today. The dyno tuner just wants us to get a new w/gate but we don’t have time. I’m hoping a combination of cleaning it out, shimming it by 9mm and much more cool air flow through at the track will allow us to at least do our shakedown on Friday. The tuner wants it back again before Friday…ahh the joys of motorsports.
Speaking with the builder again this afternoon, when I mentioned that there seemed to be a power ceiling in the upper rpms that we’d also observed be in the last chart from 2010, he said that they hadn’t wound any timing into it as he thought he heard a bit of knock even at 16psi. What it may have turned out to be was what appears to be some factory metal piece that Paul, the builder, said he spotted today. He said it was on the intake and likely to be vibrating and presenting a ‘knocking’ sound at various rpms. I’m not quite sure which part he’s talking about but the tuner had his headphones connected to the intake which they say gives the clearest knock sound. So apparently he only had low 20’s in the ign where with 8:1 c/r and E85 he could have it in the high 20’s / low 30’s adv in some areas. So we’re putting it back together and sending it back to the dyno yet again tomorrow and with any luck we might see some improvements. We may even try the old MBC just for curiosities sake. We’ve never had a lot of luck with EBC / solenoids.
So any guesses why it went from looking really nice to suddenly showing strange irregularities and not passing 16psi? Could heat soak have had something to do with it? Carbon buildup inside the w/g? Spring not perfectly sitting vertically? Spring fatigue..unlikely to suddenly manifest itself.
Any guesses or answers?
#2
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what i would do is put a MBC on it to see if you can get a straight boost curve.
i get the wavy lines from my MBC because i haven't set the sensitivity up properly since i couldn't log rpm.
if theres something for that in the motec have a look at that.
Where is your solenoid located?
Edit:
Is it something like my boost curves? Red Line
i get the wavy lines from my MBC because i haven't set the sensitivity up properly since i couldn't log rpm.
if theres something for that in the motec have a look at that.
Where is your solenoid located?
Edit:
Is it something like my boost curves? Red Line
Last edited by Paulyy; 03-28-2012 at 09:45 AM.
#3
Rennlist Member
I running into somewhat of the same issue…. I found one of the vac lines was being pinch, along with the improper rubber connector leading into the boost gauge, the computer(map sensor) was also supposed to have its own vacuum line so it cannot be tee’d off to anything; it was wrong on mine as well and the improper connector leading to the computer (map sensor), the boost solenoid was improperly plumed. I caught this when I saw different boost readings from the computer, boost gauge and the dyno. I paid for all this to be installed on the car in the beginning. I had to go over and find all these mistakes on the dyno as we tried to make boost. I am saying this not to rant but to show you that “expert” people can make mistakes and oversee things. So I plumed the solenoid to single port to keep it simple for now. Its holding better with all the other stuff solved. Now I am unsure of the spring in the wasgate which I am testing out tomorrow. With that being said, you need know how you are going to run the wastage because that is going to affect how you plum the solenoid. I supposedly have a .9 bar spring on the wastegate and had minimal success trying control the boost below that. I have to test to see what spring I actually have. If in fact it is .9 bar then I am going with a lower spring so I can use the solenoid to have better control of the lower boost pressure. Check that knock issue. At 8psi, we saw 290tq 280hp running super safe. When the boost spiked to 18-20 psi, we had no knock at all.
#6
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Get a Tial 46mm, shim it to 1 bar and don't look back.
Also... the turbo (the turbine) looks to be quite large for the displacement of the engine... at least at this boost level. Are you intending to run much larger boost levels in the future?
TonyG
Also... the turbo (the turbine) looks to be quite large for the displacement of the engine... at least at this boost level. Are you intending to run much larger boost levels in the future?
TonyG
#7
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#8
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#9
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Thread Starter
After yet more issues...this time I believe the Clewett sensor gave him some grief...we finally have the 1st tune. That was finished at after 11pm last night and it's now 4.30am. Not sure on the specifics yet. Shall see him at the track in a few hours.This was at 20psi.
Cleaning up and shimming the wastegate you can see the much nicer flat boost line.
Cleaning up and shimming the wastegate you can see the much nicer flat boost line.
Last edited by 333pg333; 03-29-2012 at 02:55 PM.
#11
#14
Drifting
That's strange, we use the Lindsey dual port on all of our turbos. We use to use EBC's but found them all to be utterly crap. Changed over to the black **** and had perfect steady boost. Never looked back.
#15
Could be, I was using at that time an APEX'I AVC-R but the synapse actually just fell apart but when it was working the boost was steady, more then less