Bumpsteer etc....
#49
xschop, I stayed at work and did this for you. It's why that block to level out your tie rod arm will not work. Hopefully this explains it best.
The links may have changed, but the pivoting points are still exactly the same distance, and will therefore travel the same path.
The links may have changed, but the pivoting points are still exactly the same distance, and will therefore travel the same path.
#51
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#53
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Anders
I only have some old pics of some that aren't completely finished. They're custom pieces and not fitted to a lot of cars. All purpose built race cars. I'm not entirely sure if it's ok to publish them publicly. I'd rather not post them just in case some other vendors get the same idea. Contact Dave and see what he says. To be clear, these aren't cheap bolt on parts so they're not aimed at that market.
I only have some old pics of some that aren't completely finished. They're custom pieces and not fitted to a lot of cars. All purpose built race cars. I'm not entirely sure if it's ok to publish them publicly. I'd rather not post them just in case some other vendors get the same idea. Contact Dave and see what he says. To be clear, these aren't cheap bolt on parts so they're not aimed at that market.
#54
Rennlist Member
They weren't that accommodating to me when I cracked one. Clearly the top is flimsy and prone to cracking. In any case, they are in and ready to go. It will be another month before the car hits the track.
#55
Nordschleife Master
I wasn't able to find many threads on bump steer so I thought I'd add to this thread. My car is lowered 1.5" over stock (top of the front tire inline with the fender lip). See my sig for car details.
I've been thinking that it feels like the car has bump steer for some time now. Today I am finally getting it raised and re-aligned... I will post an update if I feel a difference, which I think I will.
I've been thinking that it feels like the car has bump steer for some time now. Today I am finally getting it raised and re-aligned... I will post an update if I feel a difference, which I think I will.
#56
Nordschleife Master
Significant improvement to the stability of the car on the street by adding some toe in and raising the ride height. It is no longer a battle to keep the car going where I want if there is some crown to the road (toe in helps here), or I hit a bump mid-corner (bye bye bump steer).
On a stock 225/50/16 front tire with near full tread (Kumho Ecsta XS), the front fender is at 25.5". Previously was down around 25" - 25.125", A-arms had a lot of rake going out to the tire -- it didn't look good. What can I say, the car got lowered to that height ~10 years ago before I knew what bump steer was. Removing the batwing/splitter makes it very easy to look at the angle of the a-arms, which is really what matters. I still have some rake (up) going out to the tire, but its much better.
It's important to note that even if the a-arm and tierod are parallel, you will still get some bump steer with severe a-arm angle if the tierod is a different length than the a-arm.
On a stock 225/50/16 front tire with near full tread (Kumho Ecsta XS), the front fender is at 25.5". Previously was down around 25" - 25.125", A-arms had a lot of rake going out to the tire -- it didn't look good. What can I say, the car got lowered to that height ~10 years ago before I knew what bump steer was. Removing the batwing/splitter makes it very easy to look at the angle of the a-arms, which is really what matters. I still have some rake (up) going out to the tire, but its much better.
It's important to note that even if the a-arm and tierod are parallel, you will still get some bump steer with severe a-arm angle if the tierod is a different length than the a-arm.
#57
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
About to install a Bump Steer kit onto the racecar. Can't even remember where I got it from...perhaps someone in this thread I'm thinking. Hopefully they'll help to a degree (bad pun, I know!).
#58
Hi Patrick,
I did some measuring on my 944 track car and noticed a lot of toe in under braking.
Also don't like the steering respons going through a chicane, the car respons to slow going from left to right, and when i hit a curbstone i have to correct the steering
So i wanted to solve the bumpsteer and roll center problem.
Because i have my own machine shop and wanted to practice with my cadcam system this would be a nice project.
I decided to make my own billet uprights.
The shaft is from 34CrMo6 and will be shrinked and bolted to the aluminum 7075t6 hub.
The control arm and steering arm are lowered by 50 mm.
I still have to drill the holes for the connection of the steering arm, and don't know to leave it like stock or give it some extra ackerman.
If anyone has suggestions or experience with chancing the ackerman effect on a 944 i would like some info.
Richard
Here are some pictures
I did some measuring on my 944 track car and noticed a lot of toe in under braking.
Also don't like the steering respons going through a chicane, the car respons to slow going from left to right, and when i hit a curbstone i have to correct the steering
So i wanted to solve the bumpsteer and roll center problem.
Because i have my own machine shop and wanted to practice with my cadcam system this would be a nice project.
I decided to make my own billet uprights.
The shaft is from 34CrMo6 and will be shrinked and bolted to the aluminum 7075t6 hub.
The control arm and steering arm are lowered by 50 mm.
I still have to drill the holes for the connection of the steering arm, and don't know to leave it like stock or give it some extra ackerman.
If anyone has suggestions or experience with chancing the ackerman effect on a 944 i would like some info.
Richard
Here are some pictures
#59
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Wow...Solid 3rd post Richard!!
I'm no machinist but from what I can see your parts look very good. What A-Arms are you using?
As for Ackerman, I'd be deferring to an expert. There's very few people in here that have played with that aspect of our suspension. Hope someone comes along. I've sent you a PM.
ps guys...Richard is the driver in these great videos that I've often shared.
I'm no machinist but from what I can see your parts look very good. What A-Arms are you using?
As for Ackerman, I'd be deferring to an expert. There's very few people in here that have played with that aspect of our suspension. Hope someone comes along. I've sent you a PM.
ps guys...Richard is the driver in these great videos that I've often shared.
#60
Three Wheelin'
Hi Patrick,
I did some measuring on my 944 track car and noticed a lot of toe in under braking.
Also don't like the steering respons going through a chicane, the car respons to slow going from left to right, and when i hit a curbstone i have to correct the steering
So i wanted to solve the bumpsteer and roll center problem.
Because i have my own machine shop and wanted to practice with my cadcam system this would be a nice project.
I decided to make my own billet uprights.
The shaft is from 34CrMo6 and will be shrinked and bolted to the aluminum 7075t6 hub.
The control arm and steering arm are lowered by 50 mm.
I still have to drill the holes for the connection of the steering arm, and don't know to leave it like stock or give it some extra ackerman.
If anyone has suggestions or experience with chancing the ackerman effect on a 944 i would like some info.
Richard
Here are some pictures
I did some measuring on my 944 track car and noticed a lot of toe in under braking.
Also don't like the steering respons going through a chicane, the car respons to slow going from left to right, and when i hit a curbstone i have to correct the steering
So i wanted to solve the bumpsteer and roll center problem.
Because i have my own machine shop and wanted to practice with my cadcam system this would be a nice project.
I decided to make my own billet uprights.
The shaft is from 34CrMo6 and will be shrinked and bolted to the aluminum 7075t6 hub.
The control arm and steering arm are lowered by 50 mm.
I still have to drill the holes for the connection of the steering arm, and don't know to leave it like stock or give it some extra ackerman.
If anyone has suggestions or experience with chancing the ackerman effect on a 944 i would like some info.
Richard
Here are some pictures
One suggestion for a future version might be to incorporate mounts for modern radially-mounted brake calipers, instead of the 944 style ears.
I will post my budget solution soon, stay tuned!