JBrown

its not a boost cut the whole engine cuts and i get no boost my other boost gauge says zero wich i find weiord and the car just deaccelerates as if your not on the throttle.. some time it will catch its self and start to go then stop then go ....

Bri Bro

You really need to state what your current setup is. Anything other then stock should be stated with specs and supplier.

JBrown

LR duel port wg 55lb injectors, greaddy EBC, garret cold side with k26/8 hot side, 3 inch dp and full exhuast no cats by LR. i have rouges chips and also LR and currently running a dyno tune they burnt the chips in house

JBrown

i dont think it has anything to do with my setup it has to be something simple that i am missing

Bri Bro

Then I would go back to set of chips before they burned a new image. The problem does not match any normal failure I have seen. Who made the new chips?

JBrown

i had rouges chips w the A tune and the video you was was with rouges chips and a tune... now im running no a tune and new chips and it does the same thing.... i have a set of LR chips that are for my set up before my dyno tune should i try them.... or can my ECU be bad ?

Bri Bro

Go back to a setup that worked and see if the problem persists. That is what I have and would do with strange problems. It doesn't look like a normal DME problem but I have a spare I can send you after you try a setup that did work correctly.

JBrown

i understand what you are saying but my set up with the A tune and rouge chips worked fine it just all of a sudden happened. i know my set up is fine i had my TPS changed and ever since my porsche mechanic did something it was different but im not on good terms with him any mroe ... lets just say he built my engine as a blind guy so i had to get my seals replaced by anoter mechanic

reno808

why did u have the tps changed in the 1st place? I have been telling you. just leave the car alone. go back to the a tune and make everything go back to the way it was and call it a day

JBrown

well the 1st time my mechanic told me it was bad wich i did not notice i also had some vacume leaks he fixed. the idle was all messed up and it was running super rich... so after he fixed the vacume leaks and changed the TPS it was back to normal then this problem started occuring

JBrown

@reno then 2nd time i changed it was because i thought this problem had to do with my TPS due it its a throttle problem. if i go back to the A tune my car does the same thing as the video shows .. only difference on my car now is a dyno tune with chips and no A tune .. but i will swich back to rouges chips and the A tune and hopfully i can find out what is going on

Black51

Because the situation is such an odd one, I would start getting suspicious of wiring. The harness wiring in particular is what I would start by inspecting. Like Brian said, it could also be the DME. But my thinking is it could just as likely be a wire running to the DME that could be the culprit, since electronics usually just fail when they go bad. With all the vibration under the hood, it could be under heavy load to move the wiring enough to cause it fail temporarily.

JBrown

yeah that was my next step to check all my wiring i know it has nothign to do with my setup since it worked fine for over 8 months, i was just talking to my dad (jbrown) and he just said the same thing. wich wires should i check the ones to my TPS and my stock AFM meter ones ?

Tom M'Guinn

Watching the video, it looks like the tach is boucing around at times when you have the pedal to the floor, in grear, and while the speedometer is staying remaining fairly steady. Is that true? If so, that would suggest to me the ignitional/tach signal is screwy (since the motor's rpms can't truly bounce around while the car is in gear without making the car buck, etc. absent clutch or wheel spin). If you have any way to watch it on a scope, that would confirm. If not, I'd check the ignition system closely and check inside the connectors on the KLR and DME, and look for solder joint cracks where the headers are soldered onto the mother boards. If all ok, then you might try bypassing the KLR ignition control (search here for pin detail -- fairly simply) and/or try spare DME and KLR boxes.

Black51

That would be a good start, since it seems to be throttle position related. Make sure to check the bottom of the shielding also. If the shielding at least 'looks' good, I would look at the other parts of the harness also, especially any parts that are overlapping other wires. There may shorting in areas like this. But if that all at least looks good, then the problem may lie inside the DME.

Have you ever looked at the chipboard before and inspected the solder joints?