starboard147

Replaced my seal when the engine was out with an OEM seal (which was black) - leaked! Pulled the tranny and TT to replace it with a brown OEM seal - leaked! Asked around and speculated that the wear on the crank (120k engine) was stopping the seal from sealing properly. Puled the car apart again, and replaced the 90x110x12 seal with equivalent spec 90x110x10, which moved the sealing surface away from the worn portion (and was cheaper than OEM, even though it was the same spec and same manufacturer). Reassembled and hasn't leaked a drip since (30k ago!). Worked for me...

http://www.elring.de/en/03en/035_rwd...php?country=en

Paul

Chris White

You might want to try driving it for a while, some seals take a little while to seat, especially if the crank surface is not perfect.

Keep in mind that if the engine has just been rebuilt you will have a little extra crankcase pressure as the piston rings seal, sometimes this can create some leaks that will go away as the engine breaks in.

Turbo17

I used the Elring RMS and Hylomar. Assembly lube on the crank and inside of the seal, Hylomar on the outside and back side of the seal. I tried to press it in with a PVC cap that I turned on the lathe until it was smaller in diameter and exactly fit inside the opening where the seal would go. I still didn't have enough room to properly tap in the PVC pipe cap, so I cut it off about 1" from the end, leaving a 1" cylindrical ring, with the edge turned down so that the diameter of the cylinder at the edge was just right. I kept the cut off ring and threw away the cap. The ring would slip into where the seal would eventually go. This let me see the seal from the outside and inside of the cylinder. The aproximate 1" length was long enough that I could put a piece of wood across the ring and strike it with a heavy hammer. Short strokes were used due to the limited space. It seated well. No leaks.