Tom M'Guinn

Are you sure that's a solid insert. It looks like the bottom of a helicoil at the bottom, no? Any chance it's a helicoil that looks solid because it pulled all the aluminum from the block with it? Might want to take a very close look before going to big serts...

audisport

Either way if it was drilled and tapped for a helicoil wouldn't that be too large a hole for a reg time sert?

audisport

It's a solid insert, I just cleaned the stripped threads off of it. You can also tell by the shoulder of the insert.

DLS

bummer
then you need a bigger insert, i don´t know if time sert have that?
if they don´t then you need to have a special made insert like i did.
a metal shop should be able to do that.

audisport

Yeah, time sert has a kit called big sert for second repairs. I'm also going with a deeper insert this time so it should hopefully hold correctly. It looks like the previous repair was done with the standard 16mm insert that comes in the basic kit as you can see with how far the insert sits on the stud. I'm going to go with a 30mm insert so it should help with the torque load.

Tom M'Guinn

Bummer. Sounds like the next logical thing -- a longer Big Sert. You have to wonder if the metal in that area is soft for some reason, causing the original and timesert to pull out threads. The longer and bigger threads can only help if so. Best of luck and so sorry you have such a challenge on your hands...

reno808

i think if i was you i would have thrown the block off a cliff. keep up the good work and updated. great info on here.

Voith

I had to go over the same ****.. Shop did it for me and I had to pay them cca $500

Horror images:

reno808

^^^^ OMG

Robo1968

I had this. I drilled the block hole out to M16 Tapping size, didn't take long. Then tapped the block to M16, it cuts easy and follows the hole no problem

Then bought a 12 x 1.5 tap, got an M16 Cap head bolt and turned the thread through the middle and cut the end off-Cap heads are stronger than standard studding

Then got a stud wound it up into the M16 part, wound it into the block with stud lock

Has been there ever since, cost was less than $50, I kept stopping and checking because it was almost too easy

audisport

I'm not sure I understood what you just said.

Robo1968

Sorry,
I wish I had kept photos
1) I drilled out the knackered thread to the M16 tapping size (14mm dia) to full depth
2) Tapped the hole to bottom with plug, I used an extension as the other studs fouled the tap wrench
3) Obtained an M16 Cap head bolt
4) Drilled and tapped the cap head to M12 x 1.5 on a lathe-someone else would do this for next to nothing
5) Cut the threaded section off and refaced it in a lathe
6) Screwed in and check it was all ok
7) Removed and put in a standard head stud with loctite
8) screwed into block using double nuts locking the stud and loctite

Costs- 1 x M16 cap head bolt, 1 x set of 12 x 1.5mm taps (reusable), M16 taps and 14mm drill (again all reusable).

I hope that helps

audisport

So I finally got all the tools and stuff I needed and started work today. The insert is in, I'm just going to wait a little while before reassembly to allow the loctite to cure. Had to do some tool modification to make things work. Drill bit was long enough, the tap and install tool were not. I had to grind off a few mm of the outside of the 3/8ths extension since it worked perfectly in reverse. Same on the install tool, had to take off a mm or so to get it to fit in the 1/4 extention, made sure it was tight so it would come out with the extension. crossing my fingers for when I torque it. Prob going to give it 4 hours for the loctite to cure if that sounds reasonable.

bebbetufs

looks like you solved it. Good luck on the rest of your build.

Urs

U have to put the right glue on the outside of the insert and then even on the head stud!
The right one is Loctite 270 its green.
Wait 2 days till the glue its totally hard/dry before u torque it again.

good luck