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Stage 8 CV bolts

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Old 12-30-2011 | 01:17 PM
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Default Stage 8 CV bolts

Anyone install their bolts from the group buy yet? I'm going to be replacing mine shortly, so if you have any tips or observations about the Stage 8 locking bolts, please post 'em up! Thanks.
Old 12-30-2011 | 01:35 PM
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I had to grind mine down.. too long, they were bottoming out.
Old 12-30-2011 | 02:04 PM
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No problems installing on my car, but be prepared for it to take sometime to finish. Putting the locking rings and snap rings on every one is a bit tedious. I think this added like an hour onto my clutch job .
Old 12-30-2011 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by supes6
I had to grind mine down.. too long, they were bottoming out.
Ouch! Did you have the stock little arc-shaped plates under the bolts? They serve as a washer of sorts.
Old 12-30-2011 | 04:19 PM
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Pain in the *** but worth it . I had to grind a couple down to but have had them on for a year and they have not loosend
Old 12-30-2011 | 06:35 PM
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Heh... not only were they too long, but in the batch I received, 3 heads out of the first 8 I installed crumbled. Not rounded... but literally cracked and fell apart.

Most likely just a bad batch... stuff happens... but between the crumbling heads and the length, I wasn't confident nor interested in continuing with them, and just went ahead and ordered OE bolts. I gave the unused Stage 8 bolts I had left to a friend of mine to use as spares in trade for 2 used lifters.
Old 12-30-2011 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
Ouch! Did you have the stock little arc-shaped plates under the bolts? They serve as a washer of sorts.
Actually, now that I remember they weren't actually bottoming out, they were hitting the inside of the upright. Tightened them all down and then found that the wheel didn't want to spin and made some scraping sounds when it did! I did use the plates also, but still needed to remove about 1/4" off the end.
Old 12-30-2011 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by supes6
Actually, now that I remember they weren't actually bottoming out, they were hitting the inside of the upright. Tightened them all down and then found that the wheel didn't want to spin and made some scraping sounds when it did! I did use the plates also, but still needed to remove about 1/4" off the end.
+1

Instead of grinding mine, I just used another spacer plate which gave it enough clearance...
Old 12-30-2011 | 08:27 PM
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Glad I asked. Great concept, too bad they don't fit right. I think I'll pass.
Old 12-30-2011 | 08:48 PM
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My question is.....how many people have actually had a properly installed CV bolt back out? After 12 years and a handfule of these cars I've never had an issue that would lead me to purchase them. I've used them on headers before.
Old 12-30-2011 | 09:21 PM
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Sounds like a solution looking for a problem.
Old 12-30-2011 | 10:43 PM
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Ive got them on my race car and they work great. I was the one who got the spares from OMNI. Ive had them back out before on the track but never catastrophic. They are great insurance but Im not looking forward to taking them out when I do my RMS this spring.
Old 12-31-2011 | 12:15 AM
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I'll throw another recommendation in for the OEM bolts. Porsche designed them with the concept of "stretch torque" in mind, thats why they are listed as a single use item. They are VERY effective at what they do and I have never seen a new one back out, only used ones. They weren't designed for 400rwhp either, tho.

I am guessing you'll have a bunch of fun trying to remove a Grade 8 bolt if the head rounds off as well.
Old 12-31-2011 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeremy Himsel
My question is.....how many people have actually had a properly installed CV bolt back out? After 12 years and a handfule of these cars I've never had an issue that would lead me to purchase them. I've used them on headers before.
Very true. Assuming they fit, I figured why not. But if they don't fit well, then there is little motivation to use them.
Old 12-31-2011 | 11:35 AM
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thanks for the feedback guys. I'll guess i will not be buying them


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