ouch - need advice/opinions
#1
ouch - need advice/opinions
So here is what my dealer says:
Front engine reseal: $1,000
Oil pan gasket: $1900
New clutch: $3500
Rear seal: $36 part - labor included with clutch
Oil line from cooler to filter: $250
Front tie rod bushings, ball joints: $1500
Power steering line leak: $600
Now Im a bit suspicious of the clutch. He says it is stiff but when I got it they said it was stiff but plenty of material left. I had the clutch hyrdaulics done late last year and no mention of needing a new clutch then.
I know i can handle some of this, especially with the factory manuals at hand. I changed the power steering rack without the manual. So considering my experience what do you guys think is doable myself and what of those prices?
Thanks,
Mark
Front engine reseal: $1,000
Oil pan gasket: $1900
New clutch: $3500
Rear seal: $36 part - labor included with clutch
Oil line from cooler to filter: $250
Front tie rod bushings, ball joints: $1500
Power steering line leak: $600
Now Im a bit suspicious of the clutch. He says it is stiff but when I got it they said it was stiff but plenty of material left. I had the clutch hyrdaulics done late last year and no mention of needing a new clutch then.
I know i can handle some of this, especially with the factory manuals at hand. I changed the power steering rack without the manual. So considering my experience what do you guys think is doable myself and what of those prices?
Thanks,
Mark
#2
You be the judge, here are some time estimates from alldata for a 944T 86, the cost estimates are mine
Clutch = 18.5 hours parts $900
Oil Pan = 14 hours parts $70
Control arms = 2 hours parts $1000(new)
[both sides, control arms have new ball joints]
Power steering line = 3 hours parts $277
[Both the high pressure and return lines]
Front seals= 5.5 hours parts $85
[includes R&R time belts]
I use a times 3 standard for the time estimates on my work because I work part time, I don't do this everyday, and no one is pushing me to get it done. So the clutch is a two to three weekend job, the oil pan is a two weekend job (if you get all the exhaust bolts to come off) and all the other jobs could be done in one weekend.
If you drop the engine out the bottom, the control arms, oil pan, clutch and power steering repairs can be done at the same time.
Clutch = 18.5 hours parts $900
Oil Pan = 14 hours parts $70
Control arms = 2 hours parts $1000(new)
[both sides, control arms have new ball joints]
Power steering line = 3 hours parts $277
[Both the high pressure and return lines]
Front seals= 5.5 hours parts $85
[includes R&R time belts]
I use a times 3 standard for the time estimates on my work because I work part time, I don't do this everyday, and no one is pushing me to get it done. So the clutch is a two to three weekend job, the oil pan is a two weekend job (if you get all the exhaust bolts to come off) and all the other jobs could be done in one weekend.
If you drop the engine out the bottom, the control arms, oil pan, clutch and power steering repairs can be done at the same time.
#3
Yeah, you can pretty much do all those jobs yourself if you've got patience and dexterous hands. The clutch is by far the toughest and requires the most specialized tools. It also helps to have air-compressors and power tools as well as a tranny jack. Those time estimates are for a professional mechanic in a shop with the appropriate tools. Home mechanics usually take about 2x as long (not counting trips down to the hardware store to buy more tools).
#4
I would do it myself. The prices seem high to me, but that is why I do my own work.
When you reseal the engine, use new "races" as well as seals, or the repair may not last. BTDT. If you need any part numbers or guidance, we can help.
Keith
When you reseal the engine, use new "races" as well as seals, or the repair may not last. BTDT. If you need any part numbers or guidance, we can help.
Keith
#5
Thanks for the time estimates. I may burn a week of vacation time to get the larger stuff done or maybe get a beater while the car is apart. Lots of planning to do. Quite a difference working on these cars. I changed the water pump on an 89 firebird I had in a day with hardly a hassle and with just a haynes manual.
But it will be worth the time and effort to save near 6000 in labor.
Thanks again,
Mark
But it will be worth the time and effort to save near 6000 in labor.
Thanks again,
Mark
#6
Ok - is there one best source to go to for parts? Also - who has the best price on factory manuals? I have the tweeks catalog putting the price at $390 for the whole set.
Mark
Mark
#7
Less for the same is best.
Buy the Haynes Porsche 944 manual also, it isn't as in-depth but it has more pictures and procedures.
<a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/944M/por_944M_documt_main.htm" target="_blank">manuals</a>
Buy the Haynes Porsche 944 manual also, it isn't as in-depth but it has more pictures and procedures.
<a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/944M/por_944M_documt_main.htm" target="_blank">manuals</a>
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#8
Mark:
Try Zims, Paragon, or Vertex for the best prices. I have had good service from all of them. My Porsche has the best price I have seen on the manuals. For dealer only parts, Hendrick Porsche is hard to beat. Here is a parts list for the seals.
Front Engine re-seal parts list for 1987 and later 8 valve engines
Camshaft
1 ea O-ring999.701.602.40
1 each Woodruff key 900.117.045.00
1 each O-ring (onion skin) 944.105.321.00
1 each Spacer 928.105.139.04
1 each Seal 999.113.349.40
1 each Bolt (optional) 999.510.022.08
1 each Toothed roller 944.105.631.04
1 each Smooth roller 944.105.241.03
Crankshaft
1 each Seal 999.113.331.50
1 each Sleeve (oil pump drive) 944.107.161.02
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
1 each Woodruff key 900.117.036.00
Balance shafts
1 each Seal (upper, cw rotation) 999.113.282.40
1 each Seal (lower, ccw rotation) 999.113.281.40
2 each Spacer 928.105.139.02
2 each O-ring (same as cam) 944.105.321.00
2 each O-ring 999.701.652.40
1 each Woodruff key N 012.708.2
1 each Tensioner 944.102.025.07
1 each Smooth roller 944.102.277.06
Try Zims, Paragon, or Vertex for the best prices. I have had good service from all of them. My Porsche has the best price I have seen on the manuals. For dealer only parts, Hendrick Porsche is hard to beat. Here is a parts list for the seals.
Front Engine re-seal parts list for 1987 and later 8 valve engines
Camshaft
1 ea O-ring999.701.602.40
1 each Woodruff key 900.117.045.00
1 each O-ring (onion skin) 944.105.321.00
1 each Spacer 928.105.139.04
1 each Seal 999.113.349.40
1 each Bolt (optional) 999.510.022.08
1 each Toothed roller 944.105.631.04
1 each Smooth roller 944.105.241.03
Crankshaft
1 each Seal 999.113.331.50
1 each Sleeve (oil pump drive) 944.107.161.02
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
1 each Woodruff key 900.117.036.00
Balance shafts
1 each Seal (upper, cw rotation) 999.113.282.40
1 each Seal (lower, ccw rotation) 999.113.281.40
2 each Spacer 928.105.139.02
2 each O-ring (same as cam) 944.105.321.00
2 each O-ring 999.701.652.40
1 each Woodruff key N 012.708.2
1 each Tensioner 944.102.025.07
1 each Smooth roller 944.102.277.06
#9
Mark,
I've had to replace the oil pan gasket on my 86 951. It was a laborious project but well worth doing, considering that local porsche shops didn't really want to take on the project, even though they're friends, and the fees for the project seemed to be too high for such a "simple" task as replacing a pan gasket.
The right tools made the job possible. A good jack, plenty of clearance under the car, (I pray for a deal on a lift from some small bankrupt service shop), and a system for suspending the engine from above once the cross member is out allowed me to pull off the project.
I fabricated a tool to support the engine from above, I'll take some photos and attach them in a follow-up post.
Cheers,
I've had to replace the oil pan gasket on my 86 951. It was a laborious project but well worth doing, considering that local porsche shops didn't really want to take on the project, even though they're friends, and the fees for the project seemed to be too high for such a "simple" task as replacing a pan gasket.
The right tools made the job possible. A good jack, plenty of clearance under the car, (I pray for a deal on a lift from some small bankrupt service shop), and a system for suspending the engine from above once the cross member is out allowed me to pull off the project.
I fabricated a tool to support the engine from above, I'll take some photos and attach them in a follow-up post.
Cheers,
#10
Mark,
The welds aren't pretty, but this setup did the trick for overhead engine support. Any 1" bar stock slides inside the triangulated braces, (higher carbon steel is better), and the two pieces between the braces with eyebolts furnish an overhead hook point for attaching to the engine block lift points. These can be positioned in either direction and slid along the bar for the shortest length of a conection to the hoist.
I use a pair of turnbuckles and "S" hooks to connect to the hoist points, and tighten the turnbuckles until the engine is unweighted.
Cheers,
The welds aren't pretty, but this setup did the trick for overhead engine support. Any 1" bar stock slides inside the triangulated braces, (higher carbon steel is better), and the two pieces between the braces with eyebolts furnish an overhead hook point for attaching to the engine block lift points. These can be positioned in either direction and slid along the bar for the shortest length of a conection to the hoist.
I use a pair of turnbuckles and "S" hooks to connect to the hoist points, and tighten the turnbuckles until the engine is unweighted.
Cheers,
#13
That clutch charge is way OVER PRICED!! I had the local dealer do my clutch on my other 951 and it was $2024 out the door. This same dealer is going to do a clutch job on my most recent 944 and is charging me $1500 bux labor including all the exhaust gaskets since I'm bringing in my own clutch parts (Center Force). If I was you I would find a different mechanic since it looks like they are trying to take advantage of you with a $3.5k clutch repair bill ouch.. does that include a new trans as well?? Good Luck!
#14
I forgot to add a couple more things. He wants 1k just to do the front engine re-seal?? I hope this includes a new timing belt as well cause they are going to have to take it off regardless. On my last 951 I had the timing belt, new factory waterpump (not rebuilt) installed, a few of the pullys replaced plus repacked with greese, and had all the front engine seals replace. Total bill came to $1465. If I was you I would make sure they are putting on at least a new timing belt, and maybe a new waterpump while they are in there. I would also get estimates from other shops in the area. They sound way to high to me. Also see if you can purchase your parts from a cheaper source that way you are just paying labor and not their inflated part prices as well. I would recommend purchasing at paragon-products as they have the cheapest parts and best service I have seen by far, even tho I do give Jason a hard time now and then. Good Luck!