I read here under Head Install post you have the new gaskets "IN STOCK". I've been waiting. How, what, where! Maybe I just need to get on here more. Hey thanks for offering this. Again we can count on you guys to make what we have had up to now, even better. With your EFI system available and no limits to tuning, what else are you going to offer! Seems our road cars are going to get quicker guy's. Can we expect Cams, and other engineered "go fast" goodies. Tell us more.

I love your engineering approach. Thats the true difference between a "ENGINEER/TUNER" and an "assembler".

Finally we have other alternatives than the same old stuff.

ROCK ON GURU!!!!

 

Danno, quick question about the map kit. Which wires should the little temp sensor in your kit go to? i had them hooked up to the "outside two" like in your instructions but then noticed it said pins 1&3, which arent the outside pins. I have it hooked up to 1&4 now and when i disconnect it the engine note goes up. Do i have it on the right pins or not? I think i should have them to the first one and the third one right?

 

Also Danno, at idle, and at idle only my air/fuel mixture is not "bliping" like it usually does. It does this at part throttle above about 1500 rpms but at idle will not, it runs full rich at idle. Also i dont know if this is normal, but i over adjusted my boost controller and noticed it spiked 19psi at about 4500 rpms, my ratio went almost full lean and i instanly pushed the clutch in. No damage done but it scared me for a second. Is this stuff normal or should i worry about it?

 

"I read here under Head Install post you have the new gaskets "IN STOCK". I've been waiting. How, what, where!"

Sorry I just got the gaskets in a couple days ago and haven't had a chance to update our website. Already sent off 2 orders. They are $145+10 shipping & handling. Available in 100mm stock bore and 106mm bore for AMW sleeved engines (w/2-valve head).

silicondigital, change the air-temp sensor to pins #1&3 (#5 is a blank position). This will enable proper cold-start enrichment.

Now it sounds like your idle is too rich as it is. I've scaled back the idle maps to account for the extra fuel-pressure, but you may be operating outside of them. Verify that the TPS clicks closed as well as connecting pins #4 & 6 on the TPS sensor. Without this, the partial-throttle maps are used.

And don't worry if you've only overboosted shortly, everything should be fine. Removing the intake pieces typically increases the boost by about 1.5-2psi at the same boost-controller setting. Due to the nature of manual-controllers, you want to set your max-boost levels using 4th & 5th gears.

Do you have a vacuum/boost gauge? What kind of vacuum are you getting at idle? It should be between 10-20 in.Hg. if it's not, you've got a vacuum leak in the hoses under the throttle-body or the various vacuum lines and tees connected to the KLR. This will cause the MAP-computer to think there's more air-flow than actual occuring at idle & low-RPM/partial-throttle conditions, thus a rich stumbling mixture.

 

ok, changed it. The engine sped up a little bit when i did, i dont know what it was doing before.

What do you mean by "as well as connecting pins #4 & 6 on the TPS sensor"? Its a brand new tps and it does click when going down to idle. It works if thats what you mean. im getting 20 psi or so vac at idle, And adjusted my idle down to about 850 rpm. It still stays at about full rich on the gauge unless i give it a lil gas.

 

Hey danno any word on your intercooler pipe Yet. Also how much is your dual port wastegate conversion kit. thanks ken

 

Danno, by the way, what about your new studs. I'm this far I want to change to your new ones. I expect them to be as good as your gasket. Yet another product you Guru guy's have made better. I read your post or someone eles's who discussed the merits of your studs over the Raceware type. I see no reason to fit Raceware studs when they are not made properly. Your post was very informative as usual and made total sense to me. I,m waiting for yours. Any idea on having those available?

I,m waiting. As I've said before, finally a better mouse trap been offered. I can say this as I've had my car for 8 yaers and spent alot of $ with all of the known 951, so called "TUNERS". In comparision to what you are offering, they sell "pre school" level parts and knowledge and Guru is now selling "post graduate" level technology. If I was one of the other Tuners, I'd be concerned!!

If anyone disagrees with me, then thats ok too. It's my opinion only. But its based on what I've receieved in the past and what Guru are now starting to offer in engineering no how and parts.
We can only hope you guys start to offer a full service, engines rebuilt, dyno service etc.

Simon

 

Why thank you for the praise Simon, we're always striving to bring you top-notch products! <img border="0" alt="[bigbye]" title="" src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" /> A couple more weeks for the studs...

"What do you mean by "as well as connecting pins #4 & 6 on the TPS sensor"?"

Remove the TPS connector from the TPS. Then check for continuity between pins #4 & 6. With the throttle closed, there should be a connection between the two. With the throttle open &lt;click&gt;, they should not be connected.

Another check we should do, measure the air-flow meter voltage at pin#7 on the DME (green/red-stripe wire). Let me know what voltage you get at your 850rpm idle.

 

Danno, i went out to test the car out today and it would not start for anything. It would sputter a little bit and die. As soon as i gave it a lot of throttle it started right up and reved fine, but at idle it puffs white smoke and will surge around a little bit then die. I measured the voltage comeing from the MAP and when at 20psi vac when i let off the throttle it reads about 1.3 volts, then when the car starts surgeing and dieing at idle the voltage starts jumping up to 2-2.2 or so. It used to just run pretty rich at idle now it seems to be chokeing itself with fuel. like i said if i give it some gas it will rev and stay running but will not idle now.

 

Silicondigital,

Sorry I missed you at the track. It sounds like we got the same set of chips with the same problems. See my other post in the GURU chip post.

 

My problem is not so much at all ranges like yours. Mine is just horrable idle. I opend my DME and KLR yet another time (3 or 4 tabs broke off this time) and changed the chips back to my europroducts chips. The idle is the same or worse with my old chips. Unless my europrouducts KLR and GURU DME chip killed eachother or something, i think its the AFM Link box screwing mine up. But im not sure. Danno, plese let me know what would cause this, and i think im leaveing my dme and klr open until those new chips come in, the tabs are falling off when i bend then now.

 

bump