fast951

I have received many emails requesting detailed information on the kits, so here it is.

All kits include, new turbo, MAF kit, PiggyBack system. You have the choice of 3 stages ranging from $2500-3000. The specs on the parts varies between kits. All kits come with appropriate tuning software so no need spend hours to get your car running again. The PB will be used for fine tuning, and if you ever make mods, you have the tools to retune your car.

* Turbo: New, water and oil cooled, direct bolton, 3" inlet (2.75" can be ordered).

* MAF Kit: MAF sensor, chips, wiring harness, 3" adapter, 3" hoses and clamps, Air Filter. Everything you need to plug it and go.

* PiggyBack: PB computer, terminating plug (if you decide to remove unit to go back to stock), PC to PB cable, WIN & DOS software, manuals. PB comes configured for your application.
The PB allows you to have 2 tuning files (map file) loaded at the same time. You can switch between maps on the fly by using an external toggle switch or via the software. Lets say you have a map for 15psi and another for 20psi boost?

Data logging of A/F, In/Out signals is provided. Logged data can be analyzed by provided software, this makes tuning much easier. I can assist in tuning from far away, just email me the files.

The PB allows you to modify timing, however the 951 is a bit of challenge and I do not recommend nor support timing changes.

If you do not want a complete kit, email me and I'll work with you.

Hope this answers most of the questions.

Thanks,
John

DangerIsland

I hope you don't mind me asking this, but it seems like a big deal that would be hard to hide in the end anyways . You can email me privately if you'd rather do that. (jleblanc@real.com)

What brand of management system is the piggyback system based on?

Also, wouldn't 55# injectors be a requirement for this kit? It seems like anything making that much power would be way way too much air for the stock injectors to keep up with without running at 100% and being dangerously lean, especially at 20psi. I know your dyno cars had 55# units on them. Is it a requirement? Why not include them in the kit?

Thanks!

fast951

I never hid the above information. This is the products description. However, the detailed specs (Turbo AR, trim, etc) is what I did not want to share.

Anything making over 300rwhp needs larger (than stock) injectors. As in my earlier post, many people already have upgraded injectors already.
Larger injectors can be purchased directly from a supplier so you save money.
I can recommend injector size for you. I can also recommend what type of resistor to be used for impedance mismatch (if any). Resistors cost less than $15.
So my goal is for you to get a good product and still save some money. Sure I can sell you injectors and resistors and mark them up 100% or more. But that's not what I'm here for.

Again, I already posted this in an earlier message. The PiggyBack is made by PerfectPower.

Hope this helped.

MySwiss

fast 951,why are you utilising a MAP instead of MAF?

1)Will I have the same problems with the MAF that people are having with the various MAFs out there such as Huntley(cold start,playing with the Arc 2) ? If not,can you tell me why.

2)When you say that the turbo is a bolt on,I assume we still need to fabricate a new water pipe,grind the intatake manifold and put a new temp sensor? is this correct?

Thanks ahead for your response.

fast951

MySwiss,

I use a MAF not a MAP.

My approach is different, I tuned the chips to handle all of the areas that could cause problems as you mentioned.

Anytime you use a larger compressor housing you need to bend the water pipe. Grinding the intake manifold may not be needed if the turbo is clocked correctly. If you bend the water pipe correctly, you will be able to use the stock temp sensor.

Installing a turbo should be done by an experienced installer.

cheetah chrome

fast can you post some charts please.

MySwiss

I mean,why are you using a MAF and not a MAP?

fast951

MySwiss,

I have tried both the MAP and the MAF. I had much better results with the MAF. With minor mods to the code I can use the MAP, but I think the MAP sensor has such a large resolution, that mapping it to be used with the DME (which is expecting a much smaller resolution) is not a clean approach. I handle the signal inside of the chip, not externally.
Both MAF and MAP signals are 0-5v or so. The 2.5bar MAP sensor might give you 3v when at 1.5bar, when a well calibrated MAF gives you 4.5+V
Also, there are other issues which are unique to the MAP that makes coding not so clean.

AFM, MAF or MAP are nothing but sensors. How you interpret the signal and what you do with it is what makes the difference.

Hope I didn't confuse the issue more than clarifying it.

keith

Have you got any pictures of the kit? Installed or otherwise?

TIA!