CS Mende

I like the look w/o the door guards, but they were removed by the previous owner. Smoother lines, and less places for wax to get stuck... just park carefully.

Oh... and saves weight!

I get some rubbing w/ my 17's in the rear under full compression -- say a dip in a full hard turn -- never from a hard launch. It's something rolling the fenders will take care of. Must mean I need to make more power!

Robby

********There are no left and right side part numbers so one side will look backwards compared to the other*******

I SEE! That surprises me that they would do that, BUT, I've seen stranger things...

quote: [quote]Originally posted by Tom Pultz:
<strong>It will be interesting to see if he feels that way once he mounts them. If they are the solid spoke versions he may not be as happy because they are 5 lbs heavier per wheel.

I went to a lot of trouble and expense to reduce unsprung weight and the front end feels a lot better now. I installed the M030 spindles and hubs so I didn't need the big brake adapters, and I added 993TT 2-piece rotors with alloy hats (see new pictures in the BRAKES section of my web site).</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yes, I knew you had done this stuff- that's the kind of stuff I want to do to reduce the cold, calculating, evil, sadistic, and deadly unsprung and rotational weight! I've heard other's talk about the thumping over bumps and such, and I realize it can be a factor of both weight AND size. I just want to do my homework and get the best I can for my goals- I don't expect 5lbs per wheel to reduce my lap times by 5 seconds or anything- maybe 4.5 seconds You see, if i get 18's, I will increase the RD for several reasons. Many of you know how I feel about that gap b/t the rear wheel well and tire. I want to close it up a little. If
I went w/275/35/18's, it would close it up a decent bit, since that RD's almost .9" taller- I'd really ratehr have a 285/35/18, but either way will probably present problems by being a little TOO tall. The standard 255/40/17 is also taller than stock though, so it will help SOME- every little bit helps I guess, and the 17 would be .35" taller. Anyway, Tom's is one of the most beautiful 951's I've seen (or 944S2 I mean). You've really done an EXCELLLENT job of tastefully modifying that thing Tom- I wish I could avoid problems w/mine long enough to save a little $$$ to get mine going in that direction...

Also, I hope Dave's wheels don't destroy his ride quality

Robby

[quote]Originally posted by CS Mende:
<strong>I like the look w/o the door guards, but they were removed by the previous owner. Smoother lines, and less places for wax to get stuck... just park carefully.

Oh... and saves weight!
</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yeah- I forgot about that- now I've GOT to take them off!!!

Steve Lavigne

[quote]Originally posted by Robby:
<strong> assuming I don't sell the car, which I will NOW try to do</strong><hr></blockquote>

Robby, even though your car isn't perfect, I think you need to chip it and put a lindsey boost enhancer on it. You will get 40 more horsepower, plus part throttle acceleration will be transformed! Stock, these cars won't build more than .2 bar till you are at WOT. I was recently doing some diagnosis and I removed the LBE. I couldn't stand it, the car so laggy. With the LBE, you can build boost at part throttle exiting corners and then get full boost immediately when you go WOT. This *might* make you LOVE your car. You might even come back to the board and post a Craig style "OMG... WTF, This kicks ***" type of post!

I wish I had some chips and an LBE I could give/loan to you. If there is someone else out there with this stuff lying around, maybe they could loan/give/sell it to Robby so he can experience what he has been missing. Chips and a LBE are kind of like the BPU upgrade for a TT Supra. If you don't do it, you are missing a huge part of the fun!

Robby

Steve-

I really appreciate the positive post. The reason I am trying to sell, has nothing to do w/my dissatisfaction w/the 951. It's my dissatisfaction w/MY 951. I just bought the WRONG one. I had all kinds of ideas when I first bought it- most notably a 2.8L (stroker) w/all the bolt-ons, better suspension, 17" rims, larger brakes, etc. I ended up having SO MANY problems that I end up slamming the car all the time and being a bitter ******* about it! I even say so much negative stuff that most people think i'm knocking the whole line of cars. It's not that- it's that I've spent about $22K on the car- it only cost $9K to begin with! I had a mechanic (the first one I took it to) rip me off big time (RPM in Knoxville- they are bankrupt now- imagine that!). He charged me $300 for a water pump when a rebuilt one was $100. I basically spent $1500 on a timing belt, W-pump, front seel kit, and one or two other things. The car has never run right since- that was 2.5yrs ago, right after I bought it. The W-pump had the plug (for those w/NA's)- the tube running to the turbo WAS HOOKED UP to it, but the ******** didn't drill out the hole! I got no water to the turbo for the 1st whole year! At least that part held up- I'll say that for Porsche! Anyway, I blew a head gasket, in St. Louis (500 miles away from home), I had to replace the clutch (which had supposedly been changed already less than 10k before I bought it) w/in 6 months of buying it, and, I just now find out that I have oil all over the T-belt! The crank seal is leaking- I've looked at the RPM reciept- he charged me $150 for that- there's NO FU**ING WAY HE CHANGED IT! BTW, YES, I DID have a pre-purchase inspectioon done before buying the car. Anyway, i was planning to rebuild the bottom end before doing chips, etc, and REALLY wanted to do it fast, as i know those mods will work well- I was also going to do a turbo, injectors, chips, and maybe Jon milledge cams at this time- I DO have a Powerhaus head- I bought that when the head gasket went- it has the compression up to 8.3 and is P&P'ed. Anyway, it WOULD have been a killer car, but i'm just running out of time, patience, motivationm, and most of all, $$$!

Hopefully I'll be able to get some of this done soon, but I may just be out of the Porsche game now- time will tell...

930 under Restoration

Steve

Actually RPM might have changed the seal but did'nt lube it before putting it in. If you don't lube a seal with motor oil or, preferably, white lithium, the possibility of melting the sharp edge of the seal is good.

This story really shows how little most shops and mechanics know about Porsches and basically how to read a manual, in general(lol). The first 944 I bought was a grey market 88 na that was in pristine condition. This was back in 1995 and the dealer was asking $7995 and I walked away. Three months later, after he sold it to a guy and the guy let it overheat and blow the headgasket, the dealer had the headwork done at Charleston Imports in SC and I passed by the dealership and noticed it was back so I went in to check it out. The dealer told me $4995 this time so I stuck around and drove the car which had no power and was making alot of noise from the front of the engine. I knew right away what the repair shop had screwed up on the belts and I ended up trading a ragged 88 Alfa Romeo Malano Platinum for it, even trade. I trailered the car home, pulled the belt covers to find the cam belt 2 teeth off and the balance belt 3 teeth off and one of the tensioners was on backwards and the other tensioner bearing was shot. I spent about 60 bucks, realigned the belts and viola, all was well! This repair shop specialized in Porsche Audi and Volks. I can't imagine what these morons would screw up on a 928s(lololol). For those of you that don't know, there are virtually no timing marks on a 928s engine.

I might get some flack on this but I think if you buy a 944 or 951 when you can afford a 911, 993 or 996 you should be ok with having the work done by a shop but if you buy a 944 or 951 because you can't afford a 911,993 or 996 you should be prepared to do most or all of the work by yourself because the labor costs will QUICKLY outweigh the value of the car. Hell, repair costs on belts, water pump and clutch will just about cover the value of the car.

I think you should either get some good references from the shop you plan on using or get yourself some tools and some shop manuals and get your hands greasy.

This was a big problem with Conquest's and Starion's. People would pay 2-4grand for them and then get pissed about paying 1-3grand just to get them to run right and then they would cuss the car.

Our cars are more than 10 years old and are Porsches and, if neglected, will require alot of attention. I find that half the fun of a car like this is working on it, tweaking it and modifying it and the other half is reaping those benefits by driving it.

Ofcourse, this is only my opinion and somtimes have been wrong.

930 under Restoration

Oops! I meant to direct my last post to Robby.

Tom Pultz

[quote]Originally posted by 951_in_resto:
<strong>Actually RPM might have changed the seal but did'nt lube it before putting it in.</strong><hr></blockquote>Or they didn't change the oil pump drive sleeve. These get worn from the seal and just changing the seal will do nothing if the sleeve is worn.

Robby

Thanks for the ideas guy's- hopefully I'll be able to tell for sure when we get the seals off- I've got to get it done fast- I'm only driving the car to and from work and whenever I absolutely HAVE to drive it- I'm afraid of the timing belt breaking and casuing serious damage. I had the whole head replaced when the head gasket went, so I've already got some $ in the head. I'd also hate to have somebody test driving it, and have it go out then- THAT would be intelligent <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />