New 951- Intake Pics and What is this part?
03-01-2003, 07:30 PM
#16
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Russ Murphy:
<strong>Great minds think alike. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I concur. Most all Rennlist 951 owners are great minds. We are all boost addicts where the only way to satify it is more and more boost. 3000+ RPM in any other car is just not the same.
<strong>Great minds think alike. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I concur. Most all Rennlist 951 owners are great minds. We are all boost addicts where the only way to satify it is more and more boost. 3000+ RPM in any other car is just not the same.
03-01-2003, 07:45 PM
#17
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Also unless the stock BOV is worn out or broken, it will NOT in any way stay closed at idle, if you downshift or something and arent making boost it will be wide open then too. Sucking in un filtered air and whatever else is near. A working one should open up and not even let the car idle with the stock AFM. My stock one would open with about 10 psi of vac pressure, which you have quite often even with a turbo.
03-01-2003, 08:37 PM
#18
Race Director
The headgasket will let go well before any damage will show up on the pistons or valves. Signs of detonation and pre-ignition will be pock marks (small round dents) on the compression-ring of the headgasket. Longer-term detonation and knock shows up as larger melted regions of the firering. This eventually burns through the 0.1mm thick layer that faces the combustion chamber and that's it!
MikeS. was the firering on your headgasket intact? Never mind, I'll check it out tomorrow anyway...
MikeS. was the firering on your headgasket intact? Never mind, I'll check it out tomorrow anyway...
03-01-2003, 10:17 PM
#19
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Well, fortunately or unfortunately(depnding on your view) I never pulled the head gasket off. I started the dissassembly process with the AFM box and saw the water. I dried the water from the AFM and the intercooler and she fired right up. At this point I see no reason for me to remove the cylinder head. I'm still making 130psi across all cylinders. It looks to me like I will no longer need one of the new guru head gaskets(sorry Danno). I think I really should concentrate my attention on the intake and chip upgrades for now to make sure that I'm boosting safely.
03-01-2003, 10:39 PM
#20
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I'd replace that homemade piece of crap J-pipe with a stock rubber boot and get it back to stock ASAP.
As was stated earlier in the thread, the blow-off valve is open at idle and any time you are NOT in boost. This is letting unfiltered, unmetered air and grit into your engine. I'm surprised it's running as well as it is right now. I bet you're seeing some good oil consumption too. Wait a minute, where is the crankcase vent plumbed into? It's supposed to be attached to the pipe right in front of the intake to the turbo. Did the previous owner just leave it dangling there too?
EDIT - nevermind, I looked again and saw that the PO just hacked apart the j-boot and tacked on the pipe to the end of it. - still a hack job.
Go to your nearest or best parts dealer and get a correct j-pipe, or the stock rubber boot with all the correct fittings so that you don't do any more damage to your engine!
What a hack job.
Dal.
As was stated earlier in the thread, the blow-off valve is open at idle and any time you are NOT in boost. This is letting unfiltered, unmetered air and grit into your engine. I'm surprised it's running as well as it is right now. I bet you're seeing some good oil consumption too. Wait a minute, where is the crankcase vent plumbed into? It's supposed to be attached to the pipe right in front of the intake to the turbo. Did the previous owner just leave it dangling there too?
EDIT - nevermind, I looked again and saw that the PO just hacked apart the j-boot and tacked on the pipe to the end of it. - still a hack job.
Go to your nearest or best parts dealer and get a correct j-pipe, or the stock rubber boot with all the correct fittings so that you don't do any more damage to your engine!
What a hack job.
Dal.
