rage2

Alright here are the pics of the <a href="http://www.blitz-na.com/PM_ID.htm" target="_blank">Blitz Power Meter ID</a> installed in my 951. There's 3 wires to hook the unit up, VCC, GND, and SPEED. Once it turns on, it'll ask for car's weight, 2WD, and power loss factor. The power loss factor is used for minivans that "lose" acceleration due to poor aerodynamics.

Once the initial parameters are set, you drive at 40km/h (25mph) and click ENTER on the calibration screen. The unit is fully learned at this point.

It calculates instantaneous HP based on acceleration. It doesn't matter what gear you're in, as HP is the same in all gears (TQ gets multiplied). As long as the road is flat and there's no wheelspin, you'll get an accurate RWHP reading. On day 1 I registered 300rwhp +/- 2hp. On day 2, a cooler day, I registered 308rwhp +/- 3hp. Peak HP was made at around 5900rpm (watched the AVC-R and Power Meter at same time). This is 91 octane fuel, 12.5psi boost. I compared the numbers to my dynojet run which dropped to around 13-14psi near redline, and it showed 294hp at 5900rpm. Pretty accurate.

Compared to my dyno runs, where HP curve was flat/slightly dropping due to inability to build boost, the Power Meter showed my HP graph to be very smooth and gradual increase, where HP peaked at 5900rpm (my dyno runs had HP peak at 4000rpm).

Once the snow clears up, I'll be filling up with some 103 octane, 20psi, to see how much HP I'll get. I'll camcorder the Power Meter and AVC-R, so I can get RPM's and calculate TQ and draw up a nice chart.

tecart

i cant wait to see the video at 20 psi, i want a take off start captured too as you drive through 1st to 3rd gear like a quarter mile video? maybe too much wishing but i bet you could make something up for us, p.s. be safe when testing, i overdo it too sometimes

Bri Bro

I saw a similar device listed on the 996 board. It doesn't have the nice display, you have to download the info to a computer, but it does cost less.

<a href="http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/homedyno/dynokit.htm" target="_blank">road dyno</a>

Perry 951

I have the road dyno... have used it for tuning. It seems to be a quality device. They say with all the parameters set to factory spec, it is within 10hp of a real dyno. Perfect for a base line run. You then can see what gains you have once you start adding mods. I love it, and costs about as much as 1 dyno session.

Danno

What's that thing you have in the cigarette lighter?

Alan C.

I've used the Road Dyano as well. It compared to within 5 hp of the chasis dyno.

Prety easy to install.

Alan

rage2

[quote]Originally posted by Danno:
<strong>What's that thing you have in the cigarette lighter?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Reflection from the flash =)

Bri Bro

That is a nice job of installing the ARM1 in the dash were the clock was located!

Can you see the readout when you are busy keeping up with the car under acceleration? I am still trying to find a place that isn't in your face but can be used without having to rely on a passenger recording all the readings. I am leaning toward having two mounting locations, one on the dash and the other under the dash.

The next X Files will explain the strange light from the cigarette lighter.

rage2

[quote]Originally posted by beab951:
<strong>That is a nice job of installing the ARM1 in the dash were the clock was located!

Can you see the readout when you are busy keeping up with the car under acceleration? I am still trying to find a place that isn't in your face but can be used without having to rely on a passenger recording all the readings. I am leaning toward having two mounting locations, one on the dash and the other under the dash.

The next X Files will explain the strange light from the cigarette lighter.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Thanks to Danno for great instructions on his web site!

I can read it OK under acceleration (3rd gear). 1st and 2nd run by too quick. Of course make sure it's a straight highway and nobody's in front of you =).

I don't know how accurate that gauge is, I initially set my fuel settings to light up the last blue (rich) light under full throttle. There was some light knock, and I added about 10 to the fuel curve, which eliminated the knock completely, but sputters lightly at some rpm's. I turned down 1 or 2 on the rpms where I thought might be too rich and now it's smooth power delivery.

I'll have a wideband O2 sensor soon to see how close I got to 12.5 AFR. According to the SDS forums, some people use this tuning method to get their AFR really close to 12.5 (+/- 0.5).

Bri Bro

Where are you getting your wideband O2 sensor from? From what I can gather, they are still in the $900 range with the controller and the display.

With the power meter and the wideband O2 sensor, you should be able to really tell were you are in your setup.