Really need help determining the cause of this sound!
04-23-2003, 01:53 AM
#31
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mledbetter - Correct. I should have explained it that way myself. The fluttery sound also occurs at my shift, but the detonation is at acceleration...when the intake is pulling air in. This would be the "metallicy turker gobbler" as explained by Perry 951. If that is the case, then my turbo would not be detonating.
Perry 951 - You've got yourself a deal if I find that to be the problem.
Perry 951 - You've got yourself a deal if I find that to be the problem.
04-23-2003, 02:43 PM
#32
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For $10, the 993 (996?) valve from Perry951 will get you a long way. A bad recirc. valve is MURDER on the turbo compressor bearings.
I'd still hunt down why it's detonating and do it soon: that will cause problems worse than the above problem.
Metalic turkey gobbler, that's precious. Can we just abbrev. to MTG as in "My BOV is making the MTG sound again"?
I'd still hunt down why it's detonating and do it soon: that will cause problems worse than the above problem.
Metalic turkey gobbler, that's precious. Can we just abbrev. to MTG as in "My BOV is making the MTG sound again"?
04-23-2003, 03:57 PM
#33
for the spark sound and light show, make sure you battery is properly secured. this is just to be safe.
04-23-2003, 03:58 PM
#34
That would be "your" battery, sorry.
04-23-2003, 04:16 PM
#35
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badass951...
Detonation happens in the engine...detonation is when the fuel ignites before the spark plug ignites it...
The cause of detonation has nothing to do with the CBV that Perry offered to send you.
Detonation happens in the engine...detonation is when the fuel ignites before the spark plug ignites it...
The cause of detonation has nothing to do with the CBV that Perry offered to send you.
04-23-2003, 05:43 PM
#36
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adrial - This is why I am changing the spark plugs today. I noticed they were not looking good, so I hope this helps with my problem. Also, I am not assuming I have detonation. I am assuming until it is verified, that my bypass valve needs to be replaced.
04-24-2003, 03:35 AM
#37
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So far after changing the spark plugs and removing the lightbulb under the hood I have determined the following:
1. The light no longer flickers under the hood
2. I have no "metallic turkey gobbler" sound, although there was a sound that may have been it once or twice at very high boost and very high rpms (6000 rpm and beyond) - volume of sound was dramatically decreased if these were the same noises
3. Little or no smoke...tough to tell though as it was beginning to get dark
4. Flickering sound of bypass valve has been decreased in volume, although still present - sounds to be at what might be considered a normal level though
5. Car feels like it had an instant increase in power
6. Although obvious, startup is quicker and smoother
7. Engine sounds more solid at idle
I am happy with the results of simply replacing the existing spark plugs with new ones (the old ones definately did not look good, they needed to be changed without a doubt). I may not have solved my problem, but it is very possible. I will videotaped it from behind tomorrow hopefully and see if I have an improvement. From the feel of things (noticeable increase in performance) and the sounds I am hearing, everything sounds like the way it did the day I bought it.
1. The light no longer flickers under the hood
2. I have no "metallic turkey gobbler" sound, although there was a sound that may have been it once or twice at very high boost and very high rpms (6000 rpm and beyond) - volume of sound was dramatically decreased if these were the same noises
3. Little or no smoke...tough to tell though as it was beginning to get dark
4. Flickering sound of bypass valve has been decreased in volume, although still present - sounds to be at what might be considered a normal level though
5. Car feels like it had an instant increase in power
6. Although obvious, startup is quicker and smoother
7. Engine sounds more solid at idle
I am happy with the results of simply replacing the existing spark plugs with new ones (the old ones definately did not look good, they needed to be changed without a doubt). I may not have solved my problem, but it is very possible. I will videotaped it from behind tomorrow hopefully and see if I have an improvement. From the feel of things (noticeable increase in performance) and the sounds I am hearing, everything sounds like the way it did the day I bought it.
04-24-2003, 08:35 PM
#38
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I am almost positive the head gasket blew today. I will give a bigger update later as I am currently FLIPPING OUT.
Can anyone post what to expecpt a shop to pay to replace and fix this?
Is it possible to do it myself with the help of a trained mechanic? My friend who is a mechanic tells me he wants to do it, but I just want to make sure I do not get into something and have to take it in anyway. I am very tight on money, so if anyone has a good suggestion please let me know.
Can anyone post what to expecpt a shop to pay to replace and fix this?
Is it possible to do it myself with the help of a trained mechanic? My friend who is a mechanic tells me he wants to do it, but I just want to make sure I do not get into something and have to take it in anyway. I am very tight on money, so if anyone has a good suggestion please let me know.
04-24-2003, 09:57 PM
#39
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Not sure where you're at but the shop near me quoted $1200 for a new head gasket. That was without cylinder head R&R or anything else. There's a lot of labor involved but it really isn't that difficult. I'm in the process of putting mine back together right now.
04-24-2003, 11:24 PM
#40
You have a LOT of folks on this board that have replaced head gaskets, some have posted lots of pictures to boot. If you take your time, take lots of picture as you take things off, organize all the bolts in small containers, it isn't a hard job.
My son and myself pulled and replaced a 951 head in two LONG evenings. There was a 5 day delay for the machine shop to do the head work. You will save a butt load of money and more important, understand how all the pieces go together on the top of the engine.
BTW, it looks like it was detonation so you need fix the cause...timing, AFR, knock sensor,etc. The spark plugs will sometime melt under these conditions so I can understand why the plugs looked bad. I wish I still had a picture of a spark plug in a Honda that had a slipped timing belt. It melted the electrode to the body.
My son and myself pulled and replaced a 951 head in two LONG evenings. There was a 5 day delay for the machine shop to do the head work. You will save a butt load of money and more important, understand how all the pieces go together on the top of the engine.
BTW, it looks like it was detonation so you need fix the cause...timing, AFR, knock sensor,etc. The spark plugs will sometime melt under these conditions so I can understand why the plugs looked bad. I wish I still had a picture of a spark plug in a Honda that had a slipped timing belt. It melted the electrode to the body.
04-25-2003, 12:04 AM
#41
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by badass951:
<strong>NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I am almost positive the head gasket blew today. I will give a bigger update later as I am currently FLIPPING OUT.
Can anyone post what to expecpt a shop to pay to replace and fix this?
Is it possible to do it myself with the help of a trained mechanic? My friend who is a mechanic tells me he wants to do it, but I just want to make sure I do not get into something and have to take it in anyway. I am very tight on money, so if anyone has a good suggestion please let me know.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">You can do it yourself.
Be sure to fix the detonation problem or you will just blow it again. If it makes you feel any better, it was most likely already blown.
-Matt
<strong>NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I am almost positive the head gasket blew today. I will give a bigger update later as I am currently FLIPPING OUT.
Can anyone post what to expecpt a shop to pay to replace and fix this?
Is it possible to do it myself with the help of a trained mechanic? My friend who is a mechanic tells me he wants to do it, but I just want to make sure I do not get into something and have to take it in anyway. I am very tight on money, so if anyone has a good suggestion please let me know.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">You can do it yourself.
Be sure to fix the detonation problem or you will just blow it again. If it makes you feel any better, it was most likely already blown.
-Matt
04-25-2003, 03:57 AM
#42
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I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction as to the EXACT list of parts I will be needing. I spoke with the previous owner about replacing the head gasket because I knew he has been through it before, and to my suprise, he is offering to buy me each and every part I need and ship them to me for free. The man still loves the car too much to see it sit.
04-25-2003, 04:11 AM
#43
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been there, done that, did it in less than a full weekend....
order the widefire gasket set from lindsey, i think it's $75 for the widefire, or 150 for a complete top-end reseal. lots of other people source it / have it available, my suggestion w/ lindsey is they always have that kind of thing in stock and ready to ship overnight, etc... but i bet paragon etc can help you too (not sure their price).
btw, as pointed out, better find/fix that source of detonation (probably why your plugs looked like crap) now rather than blowing it up again or doing worse damage (burning a valve or piston).
best of luck, don't hesitate to PM / email / call me if you need advice, i know what it's like to deal with this...
order the widefire gasket set from lindsey, i think it's $75 for the widefire, or 150 for a complete top-end reseal. lots of other people source it / have it available, my suggestion w/ lindsey is they always have that kind of thing in stock and ready to ship overnight, etc... but i bet paragon etc can help you too (not sure their price).
btw, as pointed out, better find/fix that source of detonation (probably why your plugs looked like crap) now rather than blowing it up again or doing worse damage (burning a valve or piston).
best of luck, don't hesitate to PM / email / call me if you need advice, i know what it's like to deal with this...
04-25-2003, 05:11 AM
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by badass951:
<strong>he is offering to buy me each and every part I need and ship them to me for free. The man still loves the car too much to see it sit.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Let me translate that for you.
"Gee, I feel guilty for selling you a car that was running dangerously lean and already had a blown head-gasket, so I'll spend a hundred bucks in hopes of calling it even."
<a href="http://www.clarks-garage.com/" target="_blank">http://www.clarks-garage.com/</a> has all the info you will need. If you have the proper tools, you should be able to knock it out over a weekend.
-Matt
<strong>he is offering to buy me each and every part I need and ship them to me for free. The man still loves the car too much to see it sit.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Let me translate that for you.
"Gee, I feel guilty for selling you a car that was running dangerously lean and already had a blown head-gasket, so I'll spend a hundred bucks in hopes of calling it even."
<a href="http://www.clarks-garage.com/" target="_blank">http://www.clarks-garage.com/</a> has all the info you will need. If you have the proper tools, you should be able to knock it out over a weekend.
-Matt
04-25-2003, 12:02 PM
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I am in the process of changing my head and I am finding it very difficult. All of the alan bolts, that hold the cam tower on, hve stripped heads. I used the proper size alan and still stripped them. I am ready to take it in to the shop and have him do it. I have also had on bolt crack in half. Any suggestions before I take this is in to the shop. It could possibly save me a boatload of money.
The guy claims he can do it in 4-6 hours at the shop, with the rate of $55 an hour. Doesn't sound like to bad of a deal, but if you guys think I can still get these bolts out then I would be thrilled because it would save a ton of money. (I have already spent about $30 in extractors and most of the haven't work or have needed to be cut to be re-sized)
TIA
The guy claims he can do it in 4-6 hours at the shop, with the rate of $55 an hour. Doesn't sound like to bad of a deal, but if you guys think I can still get these bolts out then I would be thrilled because it would save a ton of money. (I have already spent about $30 in extractors and most of the haven't work or have needed to be cut to be re-sized)
TIA