carbongecko

so with alcohol in my system and a fool of a friends advice i took off pretty much the top of my engine to get parts powder coated shiny whatever(not important) what is important is two things first on the throttle body there are two springs i'll call them inner and outer (the outer one has the rubber cover on it.) i deleted photos i took of it built and now i have no clue what position the inner spring should be in to properly work so pictures of the springs on a working throttle body would be amazing, second and more importantly, i removed the cam tower with out the timing being zero'd so now i have no clue how off on the timing i am. so is there a way to zero the timing from my current position or do i need to remove the cam-tower, zero both engine and cam-tower separately then connect them together again?

reno808

thats ur safest bet

951Saga

Yes… remove the tower. Did you fully torque it down without setting the timing?

zerMATT951

See if the pictures on the Arnnworx site helps.

http://www.arnnworx.com/951_tb_kit.htm

There's a YouTube video somewhere, but I can't find the link at the moment... still looking.


NBD. Just set the cam gear and the flywheel at TDC and bolt everything together. You can fine-tune the cam gear one way or the other (turning by hand - it's stiff) if you need to align it a bit to get the belt on. Just double-check all timing marks again after the belt is installed and before turning the engine over with any high-torque assistance (aka the starter).

carbongecko

um yes?

carbongecko

okay i know that lindseyracing has the flywheel TDC tool but i cant find it, also so i have the maf and some tuning so will that affect the tuning from tdc. as in will i need to retard the timing any once i am in TDC?

zerMATT951

I don't think you want to index your cam off TDC via the belt, you should line up both TDC marks (flywheel & cam gear) and bolt it back together. If you were going to change cam timing, you would want an adjustable cam gear like LR or others sell so that it's "fine tunable".

If you think that your setup may require altered cam timing, you should confirm with LR or whoever else you are getting the recommendation to tweak your timing from. I've not heard of a simple MAF/chip combo that requires alterations of the cam timing away from stock, but who knows?

Tedro951

It can be done without the flywheel lock. Like Matt says.. 1. Remove cam housing. 2. Rotate crank to TDC. 3. Install cam housing, again. 4. Install and tension belt(s).

Reversing 1 and 2 could be expensive.

Trying to degree a cam without a degree wheel isn't going to be pretty.

zerMATT951

Bolting the head back on without a flywheel lock is do-able, sure, but torquing the crank bolt properly is going to be a challenge. I'm not sure if the old "in 5th gear with a buddy mashing on the brakes" is enough to get proper torque on the crank bolt. And if you don't get that tightened properly, you run the risk of not spinning the oil pump to get oil pressure when you first fire it up.

IMO, the flywheel lock is an essential piece of equipment if you are doing any engine (belt) work on these cars. There are many options out there and they really don't cost that much. Heck, the factory tool is only $55 from Zims, and you could have it in a few days. Or Bruce from Arnnworx has one a little cheaper, and he ships fast... pick up his new belt tensioner while you're at it .

carbongecko

so just to verify the cam TDC is when the notch is in the window right?

reno808

DUDE seriously

zerMATT951

Well, sorta... But I hope you've got the cam gear cover off if you've taken the head off the car, so the "window" shouldn't come into play. There is a notch on the gear to line up with a mark on the back timing cover.

Tedro951

I was assuming the crank bolt is already torqued, and rotating the crank to TDC wouldn't change that.