nine-44

I would run it boost sensitive, most A/C systems are cut off at WOT too. I like the electric compressor idea. The best thing about it is, no need to refill a water or CO2 tank. On the track it could be winning or losing when you run out of spray!

jchaley

I dont think using the AC system on the track to cool the intercooler would work. The volume of air that needs to be cooled is very large. The guys that run the salt flats use liquid to air intercoolers. They have huge tanks (20-50 gal) of ice water in the car and completely melt the ice in one run. Calculate the amount of BTU needed to cool say 700CFM of air 10deg. and you will see it is quite large. You would never get that sustained for say 20min of track driving from the stock AC system.

john

Travis - sflraver

My real job, besides rennbay.com, is building/running/maintaining plastic injection molds. At the shop we have big "chillers" which is what you are talking about. They take a supply of water/coolant and chill it then it pumps through the cooling lines that run in and out of the mold. The idea is that the cooler you can keep the mold the faster you can cycle it, thus more parts per min. which is good. Now the problem is, especially with running nylon, if you turn the chiller down to cold you get condensation on the inside of the mold between shots. Enough water forms in the few seconds the mold is open to screw up that shot, and all the others if you dont catch it.

Then again, I am down here in Florida where the humidity is around 500 percent .
Just something to think about before you go rerouting lines and cranking it down all the way on cold.
Maybe if you put in one of those "tornado" things inline it wold atomize the water droplets as they pass making a natural water injection. Could call it a turbo NWI..

toddk911

Ok, so we are at a tank with super cold coolant in a closed loop system (so no refilling) that has lines running over the IC or IC pipes. Running off a dc motor, boost activated. COOL!!! No pun intended.

So what would be the most efficent way to cool the liquid and/or tank???

I like the idea of using coolant mix so below 32 is possible. But what can cool say...2-3 gallon mix (I guess that much would be needed to maintain an air free line from hatchback to IC or IC pipes) of water/coolant???

Lines?? Copper?? Vinyl/plastic??? With vinyl you could completely coil wrap the IC pipes, well easier and cheaper than copper.

Location?? A round tank fitting inside the spare wheel compartment, as most of us take that out anyway.

Ok, lets keep bouncing the ideas around. I think eventlually we will get to a final product and there will be a short silence.....then someone will say..."LETS BUILD IT!!!!"

toddk911

I also live in Florida which hopefully explains the pre ocupation with "keeping it cool!!!

The AZ guys should understand us FL guys

toddk911

Could also run a line for water/alch injection through the cooler to have a cooled water/alch charge.

smkn951

the following is just theory and would like opinions and comments. just read up something on this stuff and thought of cold air intake.will it work?
What about using a zeolite filled small radiator?
A vacuum is set upon installation and calculate the amount of water to be injected so after inj. The vacuum is still there. The radiator type equpment will double as an air filter also.
Air is drawn through the fins, then air accelerator is then placed behind it then a secondary air filter and or a bypass valve for condensation, safety and insurance, prior to the intake manifold.

I just saw a small type radiator about 10x5 in radiator, will experiment on it.
Will cold air intake significantly increase hp?

The following is not my research nor comments. I just research it and thought that this might work as an alternative to cool intake and possibly the i/c on the cars
Basics of cooling technology with zeolite
Polar molecules such as, for example, water are thereby absorbed, and as a result of heat dissipation they are integrated into the crystal structure (adsorption). If the process takes place in airless containers, the absorption of steam takes place at such a dramatic rate that the remainder of the water cools off dramatically and freezes to ice as a result of the high latent heat. This process continues until the zeolite is saturated with water. Depending upon the type, zeolite can absorb up to 25 % of its own weight in water. To use it further, the zeolite must again be dried, whereby it regains its full functional capability. This regeneration takes place through the supply of high temperature heating. Water is thereby driven out of the zeolite as steam (desorption).

Adsorption cooling

For cooling purposes, a zeolite container filled with dry zeolite is connected to a flat evaporator filled with water. Next, the air is removed from the system with the hand powered vacuum pump. Following the connection of the zeolite container and accompanying the evacuation process, the water will begin to steam strongly, where there is sufficiently low pressure. As a result of the already described cooling process, the water in the evaporator will be cooled and subsequently freeze. Further water molecules evaporate from the resulting ice (sublimation), which results in the further cooling of the ice. Using a zeolite cartridge, the insulating box, with a usable volume of 55 l, can be cooled at an environmental temperature of 22 °C and maintained at a temperature level of between 0 °C and 6 °C for approximately three days. At the end of this time period, the evaporator must again be filled with water, a regenerated zeolite cartridge must be connected, and the air must again be pumped out of the system. In order to be able to continuously cool over a longer period of time, and to bridge over periods of poor weather, one must have a supply of several regenerated zeolite cartridges

toddk911

Cold air vs. more air:

I recently read a review of aftermarket intakes. They got a baseline dyno, then ran again for each intake, i.e. a cone filter and an intake pipe to replace the stock air box.

EVERY cold air intake achieved more hp then the "hot air" intakes, even thuogh the hot air intake somtimes flowed more than 2x the cfm as the cold air intakes. The "hot" intakes that flowed much more air, added on avg. about 5-8 whp. The cold air intakes, even with much lower cfm, avg. 10-15 whp.

And the "cold air" intakes of course only allowed outside air to flow, not actually cold air charges or anything like that.

So it seems to be better to run 200 cfm of cold air, than 400 cfm of more air.

86944turbo

I doubt that our A/C's would provide effective cooling on warm/hot days esp. in higher gears as temp. builds. I don't care for the nitrous spray bar on the I/C as some nitrous would find it's way to the intake. The I/C I have was fabricated from 2 stock units. Rows were removed from 1 and attached to the other. It's approx. 50% larger than stock. Not nearly enough. To fit this one, some insinificant metal was trimmed. I need a larger one, but do not want to lose the stock front end look. A 3+ GA. aluminum tank has been installed in the spare tire well, below the Accusump. The MoTeC will activate the windshield washer pump at intake temps. above 39C. Distilled water (alcohol will damage paint) is sprayed onto the hottest part of the I/C. Dropped intake temps 20C (from 60+ to 40). It is primarily needed on hot days in the higher gears. Defeat switch for around town. Heat sink. Water must be filtered. Check filter often, since this pump is water cooled. Proper venting to direct max. air at I/C is probably worth 50% more air through I/C, than no venting. Vented nose panel helps, too.
Yes, larger I/C's will slow down initial charge, but they cool the charge and allow for bigger turbos that negate the lag w/larger I/C, if they're both effecient. Remeber when Audi dominated Trans-Am? The I/C's were the size of a kitchen table. Dry Ice, etc. is fine, but it is temporary. Moving the air filter out of the engine compartment is good, too. There is plenty of room in the driver's side front fender and it's protected from rain and puddles. It does not look like much space, I was certain I would have to re-fab, but motor acheives programmed boost and lambda #'s in line. My car has a fairly small K&N. I wonder if those filters are AS effecient after washing, drying and oiling?